B1550 power steering help

[llusk]

Hello, I am new here.

I have a B 1550 D 4wd with power steering.

The upper seal is leaking close to the steering wheel, not sure how to get to it.
Took the steering wheel off.

Any advice on how to get to this or where to find info on this.


Thank you

 

[lsmurphy]

Got pics?


If it has a steering valve it's leaking at the valve and filling the tube to the steering wheel. You'll need to remove the entire assembly and rebuild or replace.

 

[coxey2]

Got pics?


If it has a steering valve it's leaking at the valve and filling the tube to the steering wheel. You'll need to remove the entire assembly and rebuild or replace.

my b2150 did this and it was a $3.00 seal at the bottom of the shaft; didn't have to tare dwon the whole unit. took about an hour.

 

[MOWOG]

I recently fixed the same problem on my B1750. I removed the steering wheel, dash, column, upper shaft, and top of steering box. This gets you to that lower seal. I also replaced the upper seal and bushing in the column while I was at it. Jim

 

[llusk]

I recently fixed the same problem on my B1750. I removed the steering wheel, dash, column, upper shaft, and top of steering box. This gets you to that lower seal. I also replaced the upper seal and bushing in the column while I was at it. Jim

I appears to be the upper bushing and seal that have gone bad. How do you get to them?
Below are some pictures:

 

[lsmurphy]

I have experience with other valves, if you can get to it from the top and replace the seal without breaking it down as others are saying,,,so be it,,,,but you still have to get to it.

Interesting though....
One thing not present here with the Kubota folks is experimentation and modification.

This certainly looks like it would fit other models such as the b7100.

 

[MOWOG]

I appears to be the upper bushing and seal that have gone bad. How do you get to them?
Below are some pictures:

The upper bushing and seal get ruined from pulling yourself up onto the tractor from the steering wheel. That collar that you see on top of the column is the seal and I popped it off with a small chisel and hammer. But I think you will find that the lower seal on the top of the steering box is the one that is allowing the UDT to come up into the column. Jim

 

[llusk]

The upper bushing and seal get ruined from pulling yourself up onto the tractor from the steering wheel. That collar that you see on top of the column is the seal and I popped it off with a small chisel and hammer. But I think you will find that the lower seal on the top of the steering box is the one that is allowing the UDT to come up into the column. Jim

I thought that collar had to come off, but it was so tight that I was not sure.
Did you have a manual on how to break it down, or is it pretty intuitive?

Thank you for the advice, I will try and pop that off this evening. How does the light switch detach from the dash?

Thank you again!

 

[MOWOG]

I thought that collar had to come off, but it was so tight that I was not sure.
Did you have a manual on how to break it down, or is it pretty intuitive?

Thank you for the advice, I will try and pop that off this evening. How does the light switch detach from the dash?

Thank you again!

Go to the Kubota website and look at the online parts manual... it has the detail on how everthing goes together. I have a factory shop manual, but it really didn't help much except for torque specs. If you replace the lower seal(which I think you need to do) you'll have to remove the column. It screws into the top of the steering box and has a 1-7/8" lock nut that torques to 72 ft-lbs. I had to order a crows foot wrench from Amazon to do this for about $15 as I recall. I didn't have to remove the light switch... everything just unplugged. Also, I used a strap type filter wrench, PB Blaster and a little heat from a propane torch on the top steering box casting to get the column to break loose. Jim

 

[llusk]

Go to the Kubota website and look at the online parts manual... it has the detail on how everthing goes together. I have a factory shop manual, but it really didn't help much except for torque specs. If you replace the lower seal(which I think you need to do) you'll have to remove the column. It screws into the top of the steering box and has a 1-7/8" lock nut that torques to 72 ft-lbs. I had to order a crows foot wrench from Amazon to do this for about $15 as I recall. I didn't have to remove the light switch... everything just unplugged. Also, I used a strap type filter wrench, PB Blaster and a little heat from a propane torch on the top steering box casting to get the column to break loose. Jim

Thanks Mowog!!

I hope to break into it this evening.

 

[llusk]

Go to the Kubota website and look at the online parts manual... it has the detail on how everthing goes together. I have a factory shop manual, but it really didn't help much except for torque specs. If you replace the lower seal(which I think you need to do) you'll have to remove the column. It screws into the top of the steering box and has a 1-7/8" lock nut that torques to 72 ft-lbs. I had to order a crows foot wrench from Amazon to do this for about $15 as I recall. I didn't have to remove the light switch... everything just unplugged. Also, I used a strap type filter wrench, PB Blaster and a little heat from a propane torch on the top steering box casting to get the column to break loose. Jim

I was not able to view the online parts manual, I have an apple and it said I needed to use Internet Exp.
Below is a current picture. When you removed the steering column is there a lot of play in the steering shaft?
Is the lower seal in the top cover? (The female part the steering column screws into?

Is removing the steering shaft supposed to come loose when you remove the cotter pin. Mine did not, just wondering?

Thank you again

 

[kubotasam]

I was not able to view the online parts manual, I have an apple and it said I needed to use Internet Exp.
Below is a current picture. When you removed the steering column is there a lot of play in the steering shaft?
Is the lower seal in the top cover? (The female part the steering column screws into?

Is removing the steering shaft supposed to come loose when you remove the cotter pin. Mine did not, just wondering?

Thank you again

I can't really help with your repair but I will say that I go to the kubota parts site with my Apple computer using Firefox browser, it works fine.

 

[llusk]

I can't really help with your repair but I will say that I go to the kubota parts site with my Apple computer using Firefox browser, it works fine.

I wil try FireFox. Thank you

 

[lsmurphy]

I was not able to view the online parts manual, I have an apple and it said I needed to use Internet Exp.
Below is a current picture. When you removed the steering column is there a lot of play in the steering shaft?
Is the lower seal in the top cover? (The female part the steering column screws into?

Is removing the steering shaft supposed to come loose when you remove the cotter pin. Mine did not, just wondering?

Thank you again

See if you cannot get a pickle fork under the upper shaft and give it some help. Do not pry but assist.......maybe an upward tap with a hammer.

 

[MOWOG]

Sorry, I have the same issue with my iPad. It's really hard for me to comment on the lower shaft play, but mine had a fair amount as I recall. The upper and lower shaft are held together with a pin that the cotter key goes though... just remove the key and then drive out the pin with a punch. I replaced this pin on reassembly. Yes, you just remove the 4 bolts holding the top casting on. There is a large rubber o-ring (which I also replaced) and inside you'll find a circlip holding in that lower seal. Remove the circlip, drive out the old seal and you're ready put it back together.

 

[MOWOG]

Also; when you have the top casting off the steering box, examine the lower shaft for rust and possible pitting where the new seal will ride. Mine had a little so I lightly cleaned it with some emery cloth. It has not leaked so far, but I only have about 1 hour of run time since the repair was completed. If you get it back together and it takes out the new seal from a rusted shaft, then I've been told that the shaft can be sleeved. Lets hope that's not the case. Jim

 

[MOWOG]

One more thought; this whole upper steering assembly seems to be prone to collecting moisture... I don't know if that's from being left outside uncovered or what, but anywhere that I noticed rust I coated it with lithium grease (e.g. inside steering column and on steering shaft) on reassembly. Jim

 

[llusk]

One more thought; this whole upper steering assembly seems to be prone to collecting moisture... I don't know if that's from being left outside uncovered or what, but anywhere that I noticed rust I coated it with lithium grease (e.g. inside steering column and on steering shaft) on reassembly. Jim

Thank you for all the assistance, I have both upper and lower seals out, ready to install new ones. I do have rust on the both the upper and lower shafts.

Where do you all purchase your parts? My local dealer wants $19.00 for the upper seal.

Thanks!

 

[MOWOG]

Thank you for all the assistance, I have both upper and lower seals out, ready to install new ones. I do have rust on the both the upper and lower shafts.

Where do you all purchase your parts? My local dealer wants $19.00 for the upper seal.

Thanks!

I get all my parts from the local Kubota dealer... $19 for the upper seal sounds about right. The rubber bushing was kind of expensive too as I recall. I remember how bummed I was when I discovered hydraulic fluid coming out of the steering column on my new to me 1st tractor the first week I owned it... so I'm glad I could help by passing along what I've learned from others. Jim

 

[lsmurphy]

Thank you for all the assistance, I have both upper and lower seals out, ready to install new ones. I do have rust on the both the upper and lower shafts.

Where do you all purchase your parts? My local dealer wants $19.00 for the upper seal.

Thanks!

If the shafts are not pitted you can polish and restore them at the seal. Use sandpaper starting at 220 or so and working your way up to 800 using the 'shoe shine' method.