B01 for me?

[GrassLakeRon]

It was better then calling them the "BIG B". My B8200 today would be an LX and a B7200 would be a B series like a B2601.

 

[Branch Collector]

What is the approximate price of switching from 'lawn' tires to the newer hybrid ones? Sorry I don't know the correct terms. I'm just trying to find a ballpark if I find a tractor I like with the wrong tread for my use.

 

[PaulL]

What is the approximate price of switching from 'lawn' tires to the newer hybrid ones? Sorry I don't know the correct terms. I'm just trying to find a ballpark if I find a tractor I like with the wrong tread for my use.

Lawn tires are normally called turfs. R4 are industrial. R1 are agricultural. R14 are the new hybrid tires.

I don't know the price, but I do know that there are two ways to do it - buy the new tires and put them on your old rims, or just buy new tires and rims together. And, surprisingly enough, apparently the rims and tires together are cheaper than the tires on their own, especially once you include fitment. But the trick is that the tires come from the parts department, the rims+tires are "whole goods" and come from the sales department. At least, that's what my time on OTT has taught me.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

What is the approximate price of switching from 'lawn' tires to the newer hybrid ones? Sorry I don't know the correct terms. I'm just trying to find a ballpark if I find a tractor I like with the wrong tread for my use.

PaulL gives good advice. I'm not sure exactly what you're thinking, but since you're considering used tractors and, understandably, are uncertain of your optimum tractor, I wouldn't worry about tires for a while. As long as they hold air, you can get work done. You may decide turfs with chains are best. My L35 has R4's; I'm rarely on hard surface so R1's would give better traction. But my tasks aren't usually traction limited and the R4's are stronger, so I'll keep what I have. Besides, they're paid for.

 

[PaulL]

PaulL gives good advice. I'm not sure exactly what you're thinking, but since you're considering used tractors and, understandably, are uncertain of your optimum tractor, I wouldn't worry about tires for a while. As long as they hold air, you can get work done. You may decide turfs with chains are best. My L35 has R4's; I'm rarely on hard surface so R1's would give better traction. But my tasks aren't usually traction limited and the R4's are stronger, so I'll keep what I have. Besides, they're paid for.

Also agree with this. If you can, buy a tractor with the tires you want. If you can't, buy it then use it. If it is a problem for your use, then change the tires then. Worrying about it beforehand isn't a good use of time.

 

[GrassLakeRon]

What is the approximate price of switching from 'lawn' tires to the newer hybrid ones? Sorry I don't know the correct terms. I'm just trying to find a ballpark if I find a tractor I like with the wrong tread for my use.

I replaced mine last year. The cost was $1600. They are the same size as an LX in the back and a B in the front.

 

[Branch Collector]

I found a B2650 I like for a fair price, but it has turf tires. I've seen a few others with tires looking like tread was worn down, so that's why I was checking on pricing. I think turf tires are gonna spin pretty bad in some of my projects, like scooping gravel, etc.

 

[bird dogger]

I found a B2650 I like for a fair price, but it has turf tires. I've seen a few others with tires looking like tread was worn down, so that's why I was checking on pricing. I think turf tires are gonna spin pretty bad in some of my projects, like scooping gravel, etc.

When my B2650 was purchased, it was spec'd with turf tires. As a deal "closer" I added a set of industrial R4's at a price I couldn't refuse. (My older John Deere 750 turf tires were pretty soft so I thought I needed both kinds for the new Kubota.) The kubota turf tires are so heavy duty compared to the old John Deere turf tires that they stay on the Kubota 95% of the time.

I'll put the R4's on only if I'm going to be using the backhoe for an extended time or will be working in the woods with cut off brush stubs or unseen metal, other hazards, etc. The R4's are nice to have.....but if I had known how tough the turf tires were.....I could easily have gotten by with just the turfs. But the R4's are recommended for use with the backhoe.

Otherwise the turfs stay on year around. With summer mowing, roto tilling, cultivating, loader/grapple work, etc. Wintertime with a snow pusher blade on the front and 3 pt blower on the back, the turf tire's traction has been great. (except on pure ice). My use is all on level ground so may differ from other's use on hilly terrain.

I have found with a BXpanded "Piranha Tooth Bar" added to the front of the loader bucket there is no problem breaking out and loading hard packed dirt, sod, gravel or whatever from piles and most other situations. (With 4 wheel drive engaged, low gear, rear ballast, tooth bar and turf tires.)

 

[JasonW]

What’s your budget? Seen a post earlier that one was in the budget. Would you be paying cash or financing?

Another member mentioned depreciation on a buying a used one. From what I have seen the majority of “like new” machine have close to new prices. Unless it’s really a deal, then it’s sold quickly.

Once you narrow down the models some. It wouldn’t hurt to price out a new one (or equivalent model) with the financing and KTAC insurance.

If you test drive some at the dealership, drive several models larger than you’re looking at. Size wise you will be more limited by the length in turns than the width. Especially with a FEL and a bush hog on a trail.

 

[Branch Collector]

When my B2650 was purchased, it was spec'd with turf tires. As a deal "closer" I added a set of industrial R4's at a price I couldn't refuse. (My older John Deere 750 turf tires were pretty soft so I thought I needed both kinds for the new Kubota.) The kubota turf tires are so heavy duty compared to the old John Deere turf tires that they stay on the Kubota 95% of the time.

I'll put the R4's on only if I'm going to be using the backhoe for an extended time or will be working in the woods with cut off brush stubs or unseen metal, other hazards, etc. The R4's are nice to have.....but if I had known how tough the turf tires were.....I could easily have gotten by with just the turfs. But the R4's are recommended for use with the backhoe.

Otherwise the turfs stay on year around. With summer mowing, roto tilling, cultivating, loader/grapple work, etc. Wintertime with a snow pusher blade on the front and 3 pt blower on the back, the turf tire's traction has been great. (except on pure ice). My use is all on level ground so may differ from other's use on hilly terrain.

I have found with a BXpanded "Piranha Tooth Bar" added to the front of the loader bucket there is no problem breaking out and loading hard packed dirt, sod, gravel or whatever from piles and most other situations. (With 4 wheel drive engaged, low gear, rear ballast, tooth bar and turf tires.)

This is very helpful, than you for sharing. I do plan to get the piranha as one of the first upgrades to whatever I get.
I have run a Dr brush mower in places and have 2" poplar sapling stubs in many spots. I plan to dig those out over time but for now an concerned about tire punctures. They haven't hurt 4 wheeler yet though so maybe I'm just paranoid.

 

[Branch Collector]

What’s your budget? Seen a post earlier that one was in the budget. Would you be paying cash or financing?

Another member mentioned depreciation on a buying a used one. From what I have seen the majority of “like new” machine have close to new prices. Unless it’s really a deal, then it’s sold quickly.

Once you narrow down the models some. It wouldn’t hurt to price out a new one (or equivalent model) with the financing and KTAC insurance.

If you test drive some at the dealership, drive several models larger than you’re looking at. Size wise you will be more limited by the length in turns than the width. Especially with a FEL and a bush hog on a trail.

Budget 15-20k cash. Model probably b2650 or LX2610, or an L series if I can find one in the price range although I'm concerned on turning radius there but I'll be testing at dealer soon to see how I feel about it.
I don't plan to use a bush hog on trails, at least for now. I have a DR walk behind brush mower that is way more nimble, but if I found a 4' bush hog at a great price used I'd probably pick it up

 

[PaulL]

This is very helpful, than you for sharing. I do plan to get the piranha as one of the first upgrades to whatever I get.
I have run a Dr brush mower in places and have 2" poplar sapling stubs in many spots. I plan to dig those out over time but for now an concerned about tire punctures. They haven't hurt 4 wheeler yet though so maybe I'm just paranoid.

My use is a bit different, but I do have a B2601 with turfs. I do get traction problems pushing into a pile when the ground is wet. I don't have a piranha bar, and most of the time it's because I was lazy and didn't approach the pile in a sensible way. I've never been unable to do the job, but I've sometimes chewed up my grass spinning tires.

It's useful to know you can replace the tires if you have to, so good sense in asking. But I've had my turfs all over a neighbouring farm, I dug drainage ditches for about half a mile along one of their fields in boggy mud, I've been through gorse and blackberry, I've pushed a path through chest high bush for them. I've never had a puncture, I've never been so stuck I couldn't get myself out somehow. Especially with a loader on you can normally use the crowd on the bucket to creep yourself backwards.

I'd still recommend buy a good tractor when one comes up, and then replace the tires if/when it proves necessary. I'd give it 90% chance it won't become necessary.