Axle Seal Question (after market)

[bhbuster]

Good morning.

I just acquired a B5100e and I have noticed the rear axle seals are leaking. The local Kubota shop quoted $47.96 each and acted surprised on how proud Kubota is over their seals. Is there any aftermarket solution (such as NAPA) for getting these? It just seems that is a bit overpriced or is this my introduction to how expensive repairs and maintenance is going to be for this...

Thanks for any info!!!

-Brian


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[CountryBumkin]

Messick's is a good source for Kubota parts.
They have the oil seal p/n#66911-17810 for $39.52
http://www.messicks.com/part/66911-17810/oil-seal
but shipping charges can often tip the scales back to the dealer.

 

[427cjackson]

Local Auto parts or supplier may be able to help. I did the front hubs on my L3830 and was able to find some of the seals. Problem is you have to get them out and have them in hand. There is usually a manufacturer's number on seals (and bearings if you need them) that they can reference.

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[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would say the #1 complaint with new Kubota owners, used or new, especially if you never owned a diesel, is the cost of the parts, filters, and fluids to properly maintain their tractor.
Kubota's are not cheap to work on, but they will give you every penny and then some back in work.
Either get used to the prices or sell it now as it won't get cheaper.

In my experience aftermarket seals are not worth the savings as they often will either not work properly or they will fail prematurely making the repair twice the work and normally end up costing more.

 

[Daren Todd]

For seals, it really depends on the design. On my l1501, the axle seal was a Kubota only part. And it also came with a metal sleeve for the shaft. I could have taken it to the local bearing supply with a measurement of the shaft size and probably got a match for around 10 bucks. But the seal that kubota supplies is a special design and works much better.

Now if it looks like a standard lip seal

Then I would get the part number off it, and call my local auto parts store or bearing supplier and give them the part number and have them cross reference the number if necessary. And slap it in there

Now bearings are another story, as well as lip seals for implements. The bearings for my rear axle were Toyo bearings. Those can be found at any local bearing supply. For giggles, I called my local bearing supply and compared prices with kubota. Same bearing through kubota had a 250 percent mark up

For a woods pulverizer, the bearings were $50 each. Through the local bearing supply they were $20 each. All I had to do for those bearings was point at a picture and tell him the shaft diameter

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[CountryBumkin]

Local Auto parts or supplier may be able to help. I did the front hubs on my L3830 and was able to find some of the seals. Problem is you have to get them out and have them in hand. There is usually a manufacturer's number on seals (and bearings if you need them) that they can reference.

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There seems to be No "real" parts people anymore. Just cashiers now.

Unless they can look it up on their computer by year, make, model, they are useless. They don't know how to use a hard-copy parts book and search by dimensions or cross reference anything.
Okay - that's enough of my rambling for now.

 

[Daren Todd]

There seems to be No "real" parts people anymore. Just cashiers now.

Unless they can look it up on their computer by year, make, model, they are useless. They don't know how to use a hard-copy parts book and search by dimensions or cross reference anything.
Okay - that's enough of my rambling for now.

Amen brother Lost count of the amount of times I've walked into the auto parts store, ask a simple question and getting the "Deer in the headlight" look in response. I was looking for a starter solenoid. Didn't have to be make specific. I just needed to know which of the little posts was the "start" post. Which is labled S. Guy finally pulled 10 of them off the shelf and started opening boxes.

Had to show him that even though they each had a different part number, for a different make and model car. That they all worked the same way. Only difference was the mounting bracket design. Most had the same bolt pattern.

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[bhbuster]

Thanks for the replies!

Now that I am over the initial sticker shock I am going to go with the Kubota seals. My thought is that the current set of seals held up for all of these years there is no reason not to go back with the factory seals even if they are pricey. I would imagine I won't have to worry about them again...

-Brian

 

[Lil Foot]

The rear axle seals on my B7100 are definitely NOT standard design rotary seals;
(like trailer wheel bearing seals) they have have an extra "bellows" type arrangement between the axle sealing area and the metal ring that is pressed into the housing. This flexible area allows better sealing as the axle "floats".
I would spend the money for the factory seals. Mine lasted 36 years, so they seem to be worth the cost.