Auger, Am I missing something?

[scottz]

I mounted an auger on my L2550 to help plant some trees. The ground is a little hard, but certainly not rock, but the thing won't dig in. As far as I know, all I have working for me is gravity; I don't think the 3-point has any down force.

Am I missing something? Is there a way to get the tractor to put down force on the auger?

Thanks

 

[85Hokie]

I mounted an auger on my L2550 to help plant some trees. The ground is a little hard, but certainly not rock, but the thing won't dig in. As far as I know, all I have working for me is gravity; I don't think the 3-point has any down force.

Am I missing something? Is there a way to get the tractor to put down force on the auger?

Thanks

Few if any small machines have a down pressure on the 3 point! SO gravity is your friend there. Some add weight to the arm, some use a small auger point to help pull the bit in - that being said - once it gets stuck on something it is a real PITA to get back up - there is no reverse either!

Check you auger point, what does it look like? Some have a spiral, some have a flat spade like bit - something is needed to break the ground so the auger can bite.

 

[bucktail]

Doesn't look like you're missing anything to me. It's a common problem with the 3 point mounted PHD in heavier soils. I've seen down force kits for them which is basically just a weight, but the tractor isn't going to put down much force on it through the 3 point. A bobcat, dingo or similar will do better in heavy soils if that's an option. They can transmit down force. Some irrigation might help a little but probably not much. Most of the soils that have these problems don't perk very well, so you'd need to keep it wet for a while for it to work.

 

[SkylineAcres16]

Also, check the replaceable teeth on the auger if it is a used unit. Teeth can look okay but will be a night and day difference when you put new ones on there. I use the serrated ones. I have quite a bit of experience with PHD's.

 

[1970cs]

The pilot can make a difference also! It would be nicer with some decent pictures of the auger.

Pat

 

[TEC]

Having done several hundred holes for trees, vines, and posts with a B series tractor I find that removing any sod makes a big difference for a good bite. Then, proceed a foot at a time, raise the auger to spin clear the dirt and continue. Trying to dig the hole in one pass will often result in a stuck auger; especially in heavy clay soil.

 

[Daren Todd]

I found the easiest thing to do, to add down pressure to a three point auger. Go to the scrap yard, find a couple pieces of pipe. One at least 3" in diameter, and one that will either sleeve inside or outside that's about 6 inches long.

Weld the 6" piece to the outside shaft of the down tube. Then when you need down force, a buddy can apply pressure with the 4ft piece of pipe

 

[Steve Neul]

I have the opposite problem. Mine goes into the ground like a wood screw and will pull down until it stops the engine. I had to make a jig in order to let it down eight to ten inches at a time and let the auger remove the dirt out of the hole before doing another eight to ten inches. The bad is it's a two man job but it works for me.

 

[scottz]

Yes, I bought it used and really have no idea what the cutting edges should look like; I'll do a little research. Here are some photos of what I have. Now that I look at it; seems pretty dull.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

One digging tooth is on wrong, but both digging teeth are very worn, get new teeth and maybe even a new tip.

Here are a few teeth and tip options

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REPLACEMENT...f81c718&pid=100688&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=171057399519

http://www.agrisupply.com/point-for...2WXg1-twbqDler5Saa4PHIXku_4W4lUOxAaAgEO8P8HAQ

https://www.ebay.com/i/171057399519?chn=ps&dispItem=1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Greenline...f7b0cb&pid=100677&rk=2&rkt=10&sd=171057399519

 

[1970cs]

The first picture as NIW mentioned, is turned 90% CCW. Looking at it, the exterior hole is worn off by someone that has let it wear down to far. And that pilot bit is pretty worn also.

You could weld it up? You should measure the top diameter of the flighting and then the bottom to see how much taper there is. If you are in frost part of the country and using concrete you don't want taper to your holes.

Pat
Former Cyclone fence employee

 

[scottz]

Thanks for all the help; I'll get to work on it.

 

[scottz]

One digging tooth is on wrong, but both digging teeth are very worn, get new teeth and maybe even a new tip.

Here are a few teeth and tip options

Looking at the new teeth, they say 9". Does that mean they are for a 9" auger? My bit is a 12" so I guess I should be looking for 12" teeth? And, I'll have to do some welding to fix that hole.

Thanks

 

[scottz]

Is this worth considering? It does not look as strong as the one I have (Rhino).

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/dirty-hand-tools-12-in-compact-auger?cm_vc=-10005

Here is a pic of the whole unit.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That replacement auger might work, you would have to measure your's to make sure it would fit.

Here is a set of cutting teeth for a 12" bit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...990280?hash=item2a59c949c8:g:4bEAAOSwnOJWE~ci

 

[Repair]

One digging tooth is on wrong, but both digging teeth are very worn, get new teeth and maybe even a new tip.

Looks like the auger will need to have the mounting boss repaired so it can have the tooth mounted correctly.

 

[scottz]

Looks like the auger will need to have the mounting boss repaired so it can have the tooth mounted correctly.

Yeah, this is what I have to work with.

 

[scottz]

Looking at new points. Do you guys recommend spiral point or fish tail point?

 

[scottz]

The cutting edges I find on line have 2 5/8" on center bolt holes The ones I took off are 1". Guess I could weld everything up and drill new holes. Any suggestions?

 

[Russell King]

Buy a whole new auger?


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