Atypical install for Summit front/rear kit FR2-K4

trikepilot

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I am trying to ascertain the feasibility of a planned install for the Summit FR2-K4 onto my Kubota B2620 TLB. I have read and re-read Summits website for this model and I have also emailed and called Summit but I still cannot get an unequivocal answer. So I am hoping the OTT hydraulics sages can answer my question. The end goal is to get a rear hydraulic top link and a front third function for a snow blade. And finally... I am a light user - a hobbyist. I do not need a super HD solution.

My tractor already has a female supply and a male return hose at the rear of the tractor that plug into the backhoe when it is mounted to the rear subframe. When the BH is off and I am using the 3pt arms, these two lines plug into each other thus completing the loop for the hydraulic fluid.

I cannot use the BH and any rear attachments at the same time since the 3pt arms are removed for BH installation. I also will only likely use the FEL on the front loader arms when the BH is mounted as they are complementary tools. So this means that when the BH is being used, I do not need the Summit valve block to be operational.

What I am trying to determine and can't quite seem to get a definitive yes/no answer on from Summit is... can I simply plumb the Summit valve block with the supply and return lines I already have when the BH is off? Yes... I know I will have to unplug the supply/return lines from the valve block and attach them to the BH to be able to use it. And then I will have to reverse those steps once the BH is off.

Summit keeps wanting me to plumb their system into the tractor's hydraulics in series so that the front third function, the rear top cylinder, AND thr BH are all powered simultaneously. This will require alot more plumbing work and provides and operability status that I simply don't need.

I am pretty sure that the valve block from Summit is fluid agnostic- ie: it neither knows nor cares where the fluid is coming from and going to - only that adequate flow is there. So in my naive mind, I see using the existing supply/return lines I already have as the easy way to get what I want with minimal fuss and clutter.

Also... has anyone installed a similar system and only used the switches on the joystick? I don't need an extra set of momentary switches back by the seat to get in the way or be broken. My plan is to install with ONLY the joystick switches - one pair of buttons adjusts front blade right/left and the other pair tilts a rear blade up/down.

And lastly, the hydraulic rear top link... I can order from Summit with my kit but they are expensive and the shipping is crippling. For my meager uses, can I get by with a lesser branded top link from an online vendor like vevor?

Many thanks- TP
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Let's clear up one detail, because in a lot of situations this really matters because there are 2 different units.

You have a B2620HSD with a loader and a backhoe
You do not have a TLB
Look at a B26TLB and you'll see the difference, physically its only slightly different but plumbing wise they do not compare.
 
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Russell King

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See this thread that may help answer your questions.

If you put the rear remotes in series BEFORE the BH valve you would be able to operate a hydraulic thumb on your BH.
 

trikepilot

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See this thread that may help answer your questions.

If you put the rear remotes in series BEFORE the BH valve you would be able to operate a hydraulic thumb on your BH.
Thanks for that link. I pm'd the OP for that link as he was headed down the same path I am on.

I have a thumb on my BH but still only one supply and one return line. I am NOT interested in setting up my system in series. I do not need to run all three at a time. I don't even need to run 2 of the 3 at a time.
 

Russell King

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As I understand it you can do what you say:
Mount the rear remote valves and run the tank return line back to the tractor sump. Then connect the backhoe power line to the remote valve power in. Then there must be a power beyond sleeve in the remote valve that connects to the backhoe return line.
 

Smokeydog

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Hard to beat Kubota 3rd function option. Same for rear remotes.
Any ground engagement that’s able to apply force back through the hydraulic system needs to be heavy duty and purposely designed.
 
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BAP

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Thanks for that link. I pm'd the OP for that link as he was headed down the same path I am on.

I have a thumb on my BH but still only one supply and one return line. I am NOT interested in setting up my system in series. I do not need to run all three at a time. I don't even need to run 2 of the 3 at a time.
Just because you don’t feel you have a need to run more than one at a time, doesn’t mean that you can change how hydraulics HAVE to be hooked up in order to work AND keep from destroying the tractor’s pump and system. If not hooked up properly, it can cost you thousands of dollars in repairs.
 

trikepilot

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As I understand it you can do what you say:
Mount the rear remote valves and run the tank return line back to the tractor sump. Then connect the backhoe power line to the remote valve power in. Then there must be a power beyond sleeve in the remote valve that connects to the backhoe return line.
This is what I am trying to do. But why do you say there must be a power beyond sleeve in the remote valve?

I ask because the way I have this sketched out in my mind is that when using the 2spool valve block to control the front 3rd function or rear top link, there is nothing else - no other valves -that can be used "beyond" this valve block as the BH is not connected to the tractor.

In other words...
1. When the backhoe is in use, my 2spool valve is completely disconnected and isolated from the system and my BH is plumbed and functions the way it always has.
2. When using the 3rd function and rear remote, the BH is off the tractor and the OEM supply and return for the BH is plugged into either side the 2spool valve block. The return line off the 2spool valve is a direct line back to the sump.

Either I am not explaining my intentions and setup clearly or my lack of knowledge and experience with hydraulics is being made abundantly clear.

After reading Russell King's thread linked above I am rethinking going with electrically actuated solenoid switches due to the all or none nature that prevents feathering or delicate adjustments.

I am now looking at true manual valves for a solution. I am leaning towards a 2spool valve with a joystick where the right/left movement pivots the front snow blade (or opens/closes a grapple) and the front/back movement will extend/retract the rear top link.
 

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Russell King

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I think that Summit would be able to explain why you use a Power Beyond sleeve in the valve instead of just a tank return line (like the BH does) much better than I can. But it isolates the tank return pressure from the main working pressure of the valve. It protects the valve from damage. You can get it installed into the valve when you purchase the valve.

See these links for more information. Watch the video in the first one that shows the remote installation after the backhoe.

 

North Idaho Wolfman

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You can not simply add a couple of valves in the BH loop because those valves do not have pressure relief like the BH valve does.
 
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Russell King

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You can not simply add a couple of valves in the BH loop because those valves do not have pressure relief like the BH valve does.
But you can if the added valves have a pressure relief- can’t you?

(I did forget to state that the valve needed pressure relief)
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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But you can if the added valves have a pressure relief- can’t you?

(I did forget to state that the valve needed pressure relief)
You could, but the kit he's looking at does not have pressure relief or PB, so it's not good for what he's trying to do.
 
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trikepilot

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Thanks to hydraulic education acquired via this thread, I have moved away from the electric solenoid driven valve system I was originally looking at and and have moved on to a lever actuated valve like this or maybe even gamble on one of the knockoffs like the Vevor.

1738942457383.jpeg


It has an adjustable relief valve and has a N outlet as well if I need a PB adapter. But everything I am reading says that if it is the last valve in a series, it is permissble to send all fluid back to tank via the T port. I am headed out to where tractor is on Sunday to check everything out but I am pretty sure the BH return port is currently routed directly into the tank. I will scope out potential mounting locations and measure for hose lengths while I am out there.
 
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PoTreeBoy

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Thanks to hydraulic education acquired via this thread, I have moved away from the electric solenoid driven valve system I was originally looking at and and have moved on to a lever actuated valve like this or maybe even gamble on one of the knockoffs like the Vevor.

View attachment 147838

It has an adjustable relief valve and has a N outlet as well if I need a PB adapter. But everything I am reading says that if it is the last valve in a series, it is permissble to send all fluid back to tank via the T port. I am headed out to where tractor is on Sunday to check everything out but I am pretty sure the BH return port is currently routed directly into the tank. I will scope out potential mounting locations and measure for hose lengths while I am out there.
It will not be the last valve in the loop. The 3 pt hitch is. And, if you have a backhoe, it should be after your new valve. Install the PB adapter and the tank line.
 

BAP

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Read this thread about bandaimd’s install of rear remotes on his B2620. Lots of good information.