ATV drowning
- Thread starter DThrash
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85Hokie
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Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Daren Todd
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Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Same here without the privilege of having a winch. It's even worse when your alone. You learn quickly how to use what's around you.I might have done that once or twicemaybe more
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I always find myself saying..... self, you really shouldn't attempt that, it looks a little mushey .... then I do...
Daren Todd
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
My all time classic, going through an old stream bed scouting out hunting spots a couple miles from the farm in vermont. Got buried and the winch cable was about 10 ft shortSame here without the privilege of having a winch. It's even worse when your alone. You learn quickly how to use what's around you.
I always find myself saying..... self, you really shouldn't attempt that, it looks a little mushey .... then I do...
Had to hike home and get the bota 
Ya, I bury my ATV several times a year on our hunting land. Some work just has to get done...lol. The mud provides some incredible suction at times. I used to use a come-along to get out. I finally got smart a few years back and installed a winch. The hardest part is finding something to secure the cable too. Most of our land is willow and tag alder brush. Normally, a good brush stump base will suffice for pulling against.
The winch has saved me several hours of fun the last few years...lol
The winch has saved me several hours of fun the last few years...lol
CaveCreekRay
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
He just wasn't going fast enough...
https://youtu.be/SWWt9IC7mGs
These are the guys that make me scratch my head. They do this and then complain their bearing and suspension parts all go bad every three months...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wV3v12CoiA4
Oh well... Ya pays your money ya makes your choice!
https://youtu.be/SWWt9IC7mGs
These are the guys that make me scratch my head. They do this and then complain their bearing and suspension parts all go bad every three months...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wV3v12CoiA4
Oh well... Ya pays your money ya makes your choice!
DUDE !!!! Please dont post a thread head line like that, I aint gona tell you what I thought were you were goin with it
I figured some kids did some stupid stuff, like none of us have ever done anything stupid, and didnt survive
I figured some kids did some stupid stuff, like none of us have ever done anything stupid, and didnt survive
So guy wanted to cross a beaver flood, water getting deeper, puts feet up on seat and kees moving. Starts getting really deep and realized he has to get foot wet to step on brake to shift into reverse. I didnt tell him there was a little cable he can pull on to override it. One wet foot for rest of the ride.
Seen them swamped many times.
All that swamp moss in the belly pan dries and is extremely flammable. Buddy went swamping then drove a couple hours before parking in garage. Went back to grab something out of freezer to find garage full of smoke. Moss was smoldering. He got lucky.
Seen them swamped many times.
All that swamp moss in the belly pan dries and is extremely flammable. Buddy went swamping then drove a couple hours before parking in garage. Went back to grab something out of freezer to find garage full of smoke. Moss was smoldering. He got lucky.
alansz400
New member
Equipment
B7500. FEL, Piranha tooth bar, box scraper, post hole digger, 3 pt. bucket
Never ceases to amaze me. Always someone who makes a boat or submarine out of an ATV.
I work on them for a living. There's your disclaimer.
Something a lot don't consider-and I learned this the hard way with my own stuff when I was younger and dumber. You run the ATV off into a hole, fill the engine with water. Drain the water, fire it back up, then do 3-4-5 oil changes until the oil comes out clean (not milky). And you're done, right? Wrong! Read on....
When the ATV goes under, it gets water into the engine obviously. Through an open exhuast valve. Or an open intake valve. Or more commonly the crankcase vent system. The crankcase has to be vented, and most are vented to the air box. Some early units were vented to the atmosphere via open ended hose. Water gets in-it will find a way guaranteed. But it's not just "water". That water is also silt filled-that's why it's muddy. Where's the silt go? Into the crankcase. The crankcase on most ATV's is not like an oil pan on a car, where it's fairly smooth shaped. There's a hundred different nooks and crannies and the silt settles in them. You change the oil a bunch of times to get the oil to come out clean, but the silt stays in those nooks and crannies. Over time, sometimes a long time, the silt loosens and then is circulated with the engine oil, which is basically sandpaper on machined moving parts. Destroys them, usually over time (unless it's a kawasaki V-twin.....). The ONLY way to get all of it out is to remove the engine and totally disassemble it, then clean every inch of the insides. Everything that the engine oil touches.
My own experience speaking, you can do top end overhauls until you're blue in the face...replace the head, jug, piston & rings, cam(s), etc. But until you split the cases and clean it, you'll keep pouring money into it. I went through this with an old 400 Bayou that I beat the ever living poo out of, until a seasoned tech told me about the cases and how they hold the dirt/silt. Once it was cleaned, I never once had another problem in the 11 years I kept it. And I learned that if I can go around, it's financially a better decision. Sometimes you can't. Most of the time you can.
I mentioned the Kawi V-twins because almost every other ATV engine uses needle bearings on the crank & rods. The 650-800 V-twin does not. They're "plain bearings" like on an automotive style engine....which also means they're EXTREMELY intolerant of ANY dirt. Little dirt in the engine and it's not long until it spins or stacks rod bearings. Oil pressure drops and the engine then eats the case bearing. $5500 to $8000 (if you pay the dealer) later, you're fixed back up again. Moral of the story, dont' sink a Teryx or Brute Force
Just sharing my experiences...for what they're worth. Probably not much.
I work on them for a living. There's your disclaimer.
Something a lot don't consider-and I learned this the hard way with my own stuff when I was younger and dumber. You run the ATV off into a hole, fill the engine with water. Drain the water, fire it back up, then do 3-4-5 oil changes until the oil comes out clean (not milky). And you're done, right? Wrong! Read on....
When the ATV goes under, it gets water into the engine obviously. Through an open exhuast valve. Or an open intake valve. Or more commonly the crankcase vent system. The crankcase has to be vented, and most are vented to the air box. Some early units were vented to the atmosphere via open ended hose. Water gets in-it will find a way guaranteed. But it's not just "water". That water is also silt filled-that's why it's muddy. Where's the silt go? Into the crankcase. The crankcase on most ATV's is not like an oil pan on a car, where it's fairly smooth shaped. There's a hundred different nooks and crannies and the silt settles in them. You change the oil a bunch of times to get the oil to come out clean, but the silt stays in those nooks and crannies. Over time, sometimes a long time, the silt loosens and then is circulated with the engine oil, which is basically sandpaper on machined moving parts. Destroys them, usually over time (unless it's a kawasaki V-twin.....). The ONLY way to get all of it out is to remove the engine and totally disassemble it, then clean every inch of the insides. Everything that the engine oil touches.
My own experience speaking, you can do top end overhauls until you're blue in the face...replace the head, jug, piston & rings, cam(s), etc. But until you split the cases and clean it, you'll keep pouring money into it. I went through this with an old 400 Bayou that I beat the ever living poo out of, until a seasoned tech told me about the cases and how they hold the dirt/silt. Once it was cleaned, I never once had another problem in the 11 years I kept it. And I learned that if I can go around, it's financially a better decision. Sometimes you can't. Most of the time you can.
I mentioned the Kawi V-twins because almost every other ATV engine uses needle bearings on the crank & rods. The 650-800 V-twin does not. They're "plain bearings" like on an automotive style engine....which also means they're EXTREMELY intolerant of ANY dirt. Little dirt in the engine and it's not long until it spins or stacks rod bearings. Oil pressure drops and the engine then eats the case bearing. $5500 to $8000 (if you pay the dealer) later, you're fixed back up again
. Moral of the story, dont' sink a Teryx or Brute Force Just sharing my experiences...for what they're worth. Probably not much.
That explains it! The owner's manual of my 79 F350 had the warning in it "This vehicle is NOT a boat" Do not drive it etc etc. At the time I thought they were being funny Guess not. 4 wd must bring out the adventurer in us.
Guess not. 4 wd must bring out the adventurer in us.
NEPA Guy
Member
Lifetime Member
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B2650HSDC, Spacers, FEL, BH, Snowblower, Snowplow, PBar, Forks
Years ago when I used to offroad with some friends. Snorkels don't always do the job!
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CaveCreekRay
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
Yeah... this is normal:
https://youtu.be/OPCXHvVzE-Q
Loads of guys drive their new Rangers into deep water only to have them stop pulling. The throttle pedal is fly by wire and is not waterproof. There's a $70 mistake.
Loads of owners on the Ranger Forum complain they have to change all their wheel bearings every six months or so. If anyone decides to buy a used one, make darn sure it hasn't been used as an U-Boat.
Ray
https://youtu.be/OPCXHvVzE-Q
Loads of guys drive their new Rangers into deep water only to have them stop pulling. The throttle pedal is fly by wire and is not waterproof. There's a $70 mistake.
Loads of owners on the Ranger Forum complain they have to change all their wheel bearings every six months or so. If anyone decides to buy a used one, make darn sure it hasn't been used as an U-Boat.
Ray
More for you
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UM4C1O6soyA
This post (whole thread) shows why not to buy a used atv
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UM4C1O6soyA
This post (whole thread) shows why not to buy a used atv
Last edited:
CaveCreekRay
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
DThrash,
I am like you. Most of my stuff is old but looks brand new. My '97 DR650 has 10k on the clock and only has a few marks on it from cruising the outback. Most 20 year old dual sport bikes are a collection of replacement parts.
I beat the crap out of a new bicycle I got for Christmas when I was 7. My dad was always straightening the mangled chain guard. One day, he said, "I never had a new bike. I sure hoped for one when I was your age. If I had gotten one, I would have taken a lot better care of it than you took of this one."
I was so embarrassed. I realized what he went through as a depression era kid, riding the rails between parents. I started taking care of things a lot better after that.
Ray
I am like you. Most of my stuff is old but looks brand new. My '97 DR650 has 10k on the clock and only has a few marks on it from cruising the outback. Most 20 year old dual sport bikes are a collection of replacement parts.
I beat the crap out of a new bicycle I got for Christmas when I was 7. My dad was always straightening the mangled chain guard. One day, he said, "I never had a new bike. I sure hoped for one when I was your age. If I had gotten one, I would have taken a lot better care of it than you took of this one."
I was so embarrassed. I realized what he went through as a depression era kid, riding the rails between parents. I started taking care of things a lot better after that.
Ray
Failed to mention air cooled bikes and quads. That cylinder and piston are running at 300+ degrees at normal operating temperature. Then they go into the water-snorkeled or not-and that cylinder cools off instantly, but the piston is still hotter than a firecracker. Stuff shrinks when it's cooled; and expands when it's hot.
The piston is still hot-and expanded. The cylinder is cold, and shrunken. There is maybe .002" clearance between the two at normal operating temps. It's not uncommon for the piston to seize in the bore during the submarine trick. Engine dies and we blame it on just being in the water. It'll fire back up eventually but if you pulled the engine apart, you'll see some blackening of the piston skirts-more pronounce on the intake side-which is a characteristic of metal transfer, due to cold seizure. It might run for a few years after, or it might start smoking immediately due to stuck rings.
Happens with water cooled stuff to but they're more likely to crack things than seize them. Radiators get dirty, and they look clean from the outside but if you put a light behind the core, you can see the junk built up in between the fins. This restricts airflow and heats the engine. Seen a ton of Rhino's like this. I use a product called "zing" to clean them-and it's the only thing I've found that actually works. Radiator looks brand new after cleaning it with zing. I had guys bringing me Rhino 700's complaining that they have an overheating problem, and they were asking me to put new, bigger, aftermarket radiators on...which I did...but it only prolonged the same thing from happening, and those same people kept saying that the 700's were junk and prone to overheating due to a "bad design". LOL.
Go around if you can. Saves a lot of money. If people want to treat vehicles like mud racers, they should be have the means for the maintenance and upkeep of said mud racers.
I'm like some of y'all. My junk is old and well used, but looks great in comparison. Stuff just costs too much for me to treat it rough.
The piston is still hot-and expanded. The cylinder is cold, and shrunken. There is maybe .002" clearance between the two at normal operating temps. It's not uncommon for the piston to seize in the bore during the submarine trick. Engine dies and we blame it on just being in the water. It'll fire back up eventually but if you pulled the engine apart, you'll see some blackening of the piston skirts-more pronounce on the intake side-which is a characteristic of metal transfer, due to cold seizure. It might run for a few years after, or it might start smoking immediately due to stuck rings.
Happens with water cooled stuff to but they're more likely to crack things than seize them. Radiators get dirty, and they look clean from the outside but if you put a light behind the core, you can see the junk built up in between the fins. This restricts airflow and heats the engine. Seen a ton of Rhino's like this. I use a product called "zing" to clean them-and it's the only thing I've found that actually works. Radiator looks brand new after cleaning it with zing. I had guys bringing me Rhino 700's complaining that they have an overheating problem, and they were asking me to put new, bigger, aftermarket radiators on...which I did...but it only prolonged the same thing from happening, and those same people kept saying that the 700's were junk and prone to overheating due to a "bad design". LOL.
Go around if you can. Saves a lot of money. If people want to treat vehicles like mud racers, they should be have the means for the maintenance and upkeep of said mud racers.
I'm like some of y'all. My junk is old and well used, but looks great in comparison. Stuff just costs too much for me to treat it rough.