Are suitcase weights harmful?

[huntersprings]

I have a M4800 with no loader. My farm has hills. Tractor is primarily used for mowing and driveway maintenance. When going uphill and pulling a load, the tractor was skipping across the ground during a turn. I've since filled all four tires with liquid ballast and installed a weight bumper with 4 suitcase weights that weigh ~100 lbs each. It made a tremendous difference but didn't completely eliminate the skipping. I just bought 2 more weights and haven't tried it out but feel pretty sure it is going to improve traction. The bumper has room for 8 total weights but I don't plan on installing any more.

My question is: Do suitcase weights have a damaging effect to the front end, like the wheel bearings? What are the pros and cons?

 

[Bulldog]

What you describe is exactly what the weights are for. To much weight will cause the front tires to wear so I suggest going for the happy medium. I bought 1000 lbs for my M9000 and I found that 400 lbs is the perfect amount for the terrain I'm on. If I was on hills a lot I would add some more but right now 4 works fine. I have had 400 lbs on mine since 2004 and it has caused no additional tire wear.

If I were you I would add weight until the tractor is stable on the ground you work on and stop there. You could probably put all 8 on yours without a problem but if you don't need it why carry it. Hope this helps.

 

[skeets]

Are suitcase weights harmful?

Simple answer if they are on the tractor no,,
however if they are on your foot wellll yeah

 

[mendonsy]

If you had the FEL installed it would add about 500# to the front end weight when empty and 1500# loaded. Adding 800# of weights is not a big deal.

 

[TripleR]

What they said, here if a tractor doesn't have a FEL on, it will have weights.

 

[huntersprings]

Sounds unanimous! The 600 lbs made a big difference in traction and keeps the front end on the ground when pulling a cutter up a hill. I'll stop at 6 weights. Thanks.

 

[D2Cat]

You mention, "It made a tremendous difference but didn't completely eliminate the skipping."

Are you sure you have the correct tire size on all four corners? A wrong tire ratio could cause skipping.

 

[huntersprings]

You mention, "It made a tremendous difference but didn't completely eliminate the skipping."

Are you sure you have the correct tire size on all four corners? A wrong tire ratio could cause skipping.

The tires are factory 8.3-24 on front and 14.9-28 on back. Still lots of tread. I couldn't say if the ratio is correct; wouldn't know how? My definition of skipping is when the tractor takes a wider arc than it should during a turn because the front end appears too light and the front tires aren't biting into the dirt enough. I added two more weights and mowed today and couldn't be more pleased with the traction. My concern is probably unnecessary but looking at that row of six 100lb weights just seems like it might be hard on the front bearings. I want to believe that the tractor is designed to support the weight and that it will be insignificant to the life of the front end. Just curious about ya'lls experience and opinions.

 

[FTG-05]

What does the manual say about the amount of front weights you can have on your tractor?

 

[ShaunRH]

I was always told that the rule of thumb is: If the tractor is built for the additional weight, no harm. If the manufacturer provides the mounting rail for this is usually a good indicator it's acceptable.

However, it's usually better to load the front tires first on tractors that have axles rated to have additional weight. The reasoning is that weight in the tires (or attached to the hubs) doesn't count as much on the bearings unless the front is lifted off the ground (as in some loader operations). It also lowers the CG of the tractor when some suitcase weight styles can actually raise it depending on the mount type and location.

So if your owners manual says you can load the fronts and/or allows rim/hub weights, I'd do that first.

Suitcase weights, to me, were always for utility tractors that needed to quickly change configuration or required a ton of front weight to counter very heavy rear implements.

 

[Bulldog]

Suitcase weights, to me, were always for utility tractors that needed to quickly change configuration or required a ton of front weight to counter very heavy rear implements.

The old IH 806 we had for years didn't need weight until it was time to hook out chisel plow up and then we added 1000 lbs. The rest of the time the rack was empty. So when I added weight to my 9000 I had the same thought about putting weight on when needed and taking it off the rest of the time. I already had a overhead hoist in my shop so I built a hook, tool, piece I don't know what to call it other than it works. I can hook it to my hoist and it will go in the hand hold on the weight and let the hoist do the grunt work for me. Turns out I only used it once because 400 lbs has been the perfect amount of weight but if someone has to remove and add weight all the time it would be a good idea for them.

 

[TripleR]

94BULLITT on TBN made a weight bracket for his BX, so they work on different sizes. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/257252-bx2360-upgrades-5.html

 

[RCW]

hunter - -

I don't want to insult anyone's tractor savvy, but I also wondered about use of 4WD - are you in 4WD when it "skips?"

If not, without a loader on, I'd add as much weight as it takes. I used to put 135 on the front of a little JD425 garden tractor that only weighed 800 pounds.

If you are in 4WD, just be aware too much traction on the fronts might cause extra wear in the MFWD drive gear, like turning on asphalt - just too much grip. I would still load it up until it has good traction without bouncing around, and only use 4WD when necessary.

Best of luck!!