Any reason I shouldn’t buy a 18′ 14K TA CAM Full Deck Tilt

[jyoutz]

Ok. Just so you know. Appalachian is Owned by Kaufman (er. I believe its Kaufman).

Regarding trailer. Get the 20' 10K with fold down ramps (should weigh in approx 2,500 lbs) Then add a spare and some chains etc and you're up to almost 2,800. The 20 footer is necessary for any long rear implements. I can just barely fit my tractor with landscape rake and gauge wheels on my 20 foot deck. The longer deck also gives you some wiggle room to position your equipment on the trailer with the right amount of hitch weight that you may want.

I can get my machine (same as yours) on my 16 footer with the hoe turned sideways or with a box blade on it. There's no way the landscape rake would fit.

B2650 with hoe on 16 foot 7K landscape trailer...

View attachment 96309

same machine on a 10K 20 footer...

View attachment 96310

I'd suggest passing on the slide in ramps or you will need to use jacks or blocks to keep the ass end of your truck from lifting.

max weight on my trailer would be 8,500 with 1,500 on the hitch (my dump can handle that without issue).

I have and prefer the slide on ramps on my 10K trailer. Less in the way and I can let my cutter overhang by a foot. The trailer does have rear jacks at each corner and this works well.

 

[PaulL]

I have and prefer the slide on ramps on my 10K trailer. Less in the way and I can let my cutter overhang by a foot. The trailer does have rear jacks at each corner and this works well.

How do the jacks work?

I ask because my father passed last year, and I helped Mum load the mini-ex on the trailer. It has jacks that stop the trailer tipping when you drive on. But if you lower the jacks, then drive on, the extra weight on the trailer means the jacks are sitting hard on the ground - I couldn't raise them again.

The jacks on that trailer are just posts with pins to hold them at a level - they're not hydraulic or anything. I solved the problem this time by putting the digger bucket on the ground and lifting the whole thing (digger and trailer) until I could relieve the pressure on the jacks and then pull the pins out. But I don't think that's the right solution - there must be something I'm doing wrong.

Mum thought that Dad was perhaps leaving them a little clear of the ground, so they stopped the whole trailer tipping but weren't jammed when the digger was on. That seemed a bit hairy to me, there was a pretty good bang as we went up the ramps and the weight came on.

 

[jyoutz]

How do the jacks work?

I ask because my father passed last year, and I helped Mum load the mini-ex on the trailer. It has jacks that stop the trailer tipping when you drive on. But if you lower the jacks, then drive on, the extra weight on the trailer means the jacks are sitting hard on the ground - I couldn't raise them again.

The jacks on that trailer are just posts with pins to hold them at a level - they're not hydraulic or anything. I solved the problem this time by putting the digger bucket on the ground and lifting the whole thing (digger and trailer) until I could relieve the pressure on the jacks and then pull the pins out. But I don't think that's the right solution - there must be something I'm doing wrong.

Mum thought that Dad was perhaps leaving them a little clear of the ground, so they stopped the whole trailer tipping but weren't jammed when the digger was on. That seemed a bit hairy to me, there was a pretty good bang as we went up the ramps and the weight came on.

The jacks on the rear of my trailer are hand crank style, just like the one on the trailer tongue. One on each corner. They are easy to crank back up after loading the trailer.

 

[PaulL]

The jacks on the rear of my trailer are hand crank style, just like the one on the trailer tongue. One on each corner. They are easy to crank back up after loading the trailer.

Ah. That would be much more convenient. Perhaps the ones Dad had were only for taking the digger off, but not for putting it on.

 

[NCL4701]

How do the jacks work?

I ask because my father passed last year, and I helped Mum load the mini-ex on the trailer. It has jacks that stop the trailer tipping when you drive on. But if you lower the jacks, then drive on, the extra weight on the trailer means the jacks are sitting hard on the ground - I couldn't raise them again.

The jacks on that trailer are just posts with pins to hold them at a level - they're not hydraulic or anything. I solved the problem this time by putting the digger bucket on the ground and lifting the whole thing (digger and trailer) until I could relieve the pressure on the jacks and then pull the pins out. But I don't think that's the right solution - there must be something I'm doing wrong.

Mum thought that Dad was perhaps leaving them a little clear of the ground, so they stopped the whole trailer tipping but weren't jammed when the digger was on. That seemed a bit hairy to me, there was a pretty good bang as we went up the ramps and the weight came on.

I have the same issue with mine. I leave them an inch or two shy of hitting the ground and pull on and off slowly so nothing is slamming anywhere. Yes, that raises the back of the truck a little but the tires stay on the ground and the trailer wheels are chocked so nothing is going anywhere. I also carry a bottle jack so if it doesn’t go perfectly and the stands are jammed after loading, that’s addressed with the jack. Far from ideal, but I’m not trailering often so not a big deal. If I trailered often I’d be looking for a better setup.

 

[jyoutz]

Ah. That would be much more convenient. Perhaps the ones Dad had were only for taking the digger off, but not for putting it on.

I’ve never seen the style that you describe. But I’m sure they could be replaced with the hand crank style. They aren’t very expensive.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I have the same issue with mine. I leave them an inch or two shy of hitting the ground and pull on and off slowly so nothing is slamming anywhere. Yes, that raises the back of the truck a little but the tires stay on the ground and the trailer wheels are chocked so nothing is going anywhere. I also carry a bottle jack so if it doesn’t go perfectly and the stands are jammed after loading, that’s addressed with the jack. Far from ideal, but I’m not trailering often so not a big deal. If I trailered often I’d be looking for a better setup.

This was my solution as well, until my back hoe came in.

Now the hoe hits the ground before I'm on the trailer so I have to use it(the hoe) to lift the tractor off the ground slightly while driving it on.

Now I use one of these to activate my trucks front brakes to prevent a runaway situation.

 

[Snowman7]

I moved to a tilt trailer for hauling my tractors and heavy equipment, it was a great decision. It makes loading real simple and safe. Just make sure the size works for you. I have a PJ tilt trailer, the tilt is 16’ and then I have 6’ of fixed front deck giving 22’ overall deck length. Think about where the weight distribution needs to be and how the weight distribution will be impacted as you add attachments or implements. I like full length rub rails that allow for lots of options where to anchor straps or chains.

it’s nice to have some fixed deck so you can load spare attachments before you load your main machine.

they ride low and keep the load weight low, mine is a goose neck that I pull behind a diesel 3500 GMC.

Do your research and make an informed decision, particularly with the amount of money you are spending.

Tilt trailers are awesome, my LX was delivered on one. So sweet!

 

[NCL4701]

This was my solution as well, until my back hoe came in.

Now the hoe hits the ground before I'm on the trailer so I have to use it(the hoe) to lift the tractor off the ground slightly while driving it on.

Now I use one of these to activate my trucks front brakes to prevent a runaway situation.

View attachment 96742

Yep. I’m usually towing with a 4WD so when loading and unloading I put it in 4L and have it in gear so the front wheels are also holding.

 

[Snowman7]

A very nice trailer, from a builder with an excellent reputation!
I think the (narrow, 80.75" deck ) would be a mistake!
The 102" O.A. width is the best for a number of reasons!

Just curious, I am not getting one at this time but if I was I would be looking at the narrower width. Why would 80” not be enough if you never plan on any implement being over 7’?

 

[fried1765]

Just curious, I am not getting one at this time but if I was I would be looking at the narrower width. Why would 80” not be enough if you never plan on any implement being over 7’?

It is simple.....
" if you never plan on any implement being over 7'
An 80" wide deck trailer will not accommodate 7' (84") wide implements.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: An 80" wide deck trailer will not accommodate 7' (84") wide implements.

gee, just 2" overhang on both sides...not that big of a deal, 4 flags and you're good to go ,in Ontario.
I know several reasons why 102 is NOT the best, at least for my uses.

trailers are like everything else in life ...there's ones that work for you and others that don't.

 

[fried1765]

re: An 80" wide deck trailer will not accommodate 7' (84") wide implements.

gee, just 2" overhang on both sides...not that big of a deal, 4 flags and you're good to go ,in Ontario.
I know several reasons why 102 is NOT the best, at least for my uses.

trailers are like everything else in life ...there's ones that work for you and others that don't.

I don't think the 80" wide deck trailer fenders would readily accommodate being forced apart by an 84" implement squeezed between them.
Maybe would still need 4 flags (in Ontario), but also a porta power, and some paint, to fix the trailer damage.