Any reason I shouldn’t buy a 18′ 14K TA CAM Full Deck Tilt

fried1765

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Ok. Let me clarify. They are fork carriers/holder. They cut a slot thru the frame and install tubular steel so you can keep your forks on the trailer....see the two slots in the first pic below.

View attachment 95780

View attachment 95781

edit: honestly, now that I think about it I'm not sure if they can do that with a tilt trailer????
I do wonder how that would work with the lift cylinder.
 

HowardTractor

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Ok. Let me clarify. They are fork carriers/holder. They cut a slot thru the frame and install tubular steel so you can keep your forks on the trailer....see the two slots in the first pic below.

View attachment 95780

View attachment 95781

edit: honestly, now that I think about it I'm not sure if they can do that with a tilt trailer????
Ah, I see. That would be nice. I'm not sure how it would work, but found a video of guy welding on some to a tilt trailer, so I guess it can be done.
, Although it looks like this is a split deck and the forks are over on the stationary side.
 

Runs With Scissors

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Ok. Let me clarify. They are fork carriers/holder. They cut a slot thru the frame and install tubular steel so you can keep your forks on the trailer....see the two slots in the first pic below.

View attachment 95780

View attachment 95781

edit: honestly, now that I think about it I'm not sure if they can do that with a tilt trailer????
Whooo Hoooo!!!!!

I got me another project....
 
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mcmxi

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Ah, I see. That would be nice. I'm not sure how it would work, but found a video of guy welding on some to a tilt trailer, so I guess it can be done.
, Although it looks like this is a split deck and the forks are over on the stationary side.
I don't have a need to lug pallet forks around, and if I did they'd be on the tractor, but I like this trailer upgrade for the cool factor if nothing else. It's a very easy upgrade too if you have the ability to cut and weld steel.
 

mcmxi

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Interesting... there are all kinds of stake pocket accessories. I guess they are good for more than just for adding sides to the flat bed.
I bought six stake pocket D-rings that work very well. I got them from the trailer dealer where I've bought three trailers. They were $9 a piece a couple of years ago.

pj_d_ring.jpg
 
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mcmxi

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There's more to it than that. Technically, you'd need to know what your GCWR is of your tow vehicle. For your F150, it's likely in the neighborhood of 15K (GCWR). Since your truck is about 5K, that puts you in a max trailer GVWR of approx 10K. The 15GVWR trailer plus your truck GVWR puts you in excess of 20K GCWR.

Since the operative word in GCWR is the "R" for "Rating", it doesn't matter if you're towing an empty trailer or full load. If the trailer is rated (ie. registered) for 15K, you're still over the GCWR. Are you going to get pulled over? Not likely.

As I said above, you CAN de-rate the trailer in PA. That's not a problem at all. You could also re-register the trailer at full capacity if you were to get another tow vehicle down the road.

also, regarding your note about the Appalachian tilt deck trailer. There's no way that 20 foot 15KGVWR trailer weighs 2,500 lbs. It's much heavier than that.
What's interesting about GCWR, GVWR and similar is that they're merely the manufacturer's recommendations and not federal mandated values for the vehicles themselves. I called the Montana Department of Transportation (MDT) last year and they confirmed that the GVWR and GCWR on stickers required by the NHTSA to be placed on trucks and trailers are for guidance only.


Ultimately, safe operation is up to the operator, and suspected violations are often up to the discretion of the individual pulling you over. If your set up looks good, i.e. doesn't look like a goat rope, it's unlikely that you'll be pulled over. A vehicle and trailer that looks to be well maintained, and with a load that looks to be well secured isn't going to raise a lot of concern or give cause to be pulled over. I pulled an M6060 behind my truck 600 miles from Sheridan, WY to Kalispell, MT and passed numerous weigh stations and Highway Patrol vehicles without incident. I was close to some of the limits mentioned above but nothing looked sketchy or reckless.

The only universal rule I've seen driving all over the US over the past 30 years is the 26,000 GVWR or GCWR stipulation on Interstates. If your GCWR or GVWR as indicated on the registration or a sticker/plate on the vehicle or trailer is over 26,000 you must pull over for weigh stations regardless of the actual weight, and you'd better have a CDL, or give a good reason why you don't.
 
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HowardTractor

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Picking this thread back up again. I went to see the 15k gvwr power tilt at Appalachian trailers. It was way too much trailer for my truck. Also with where the tilt point was, when you raised the deck, it just came down with so much weight on my hitch. There was no way that was going to work out. I did see a bunch of their other trailers and got some different ideas about what I wanted to do.

I was talking to the guy at Appalachian and told him my thoughts were to get something with a little bit of growing room so that if my needs grew and I decided to upgrade my truck, I wouldn't necessarily need to buy another trailer. He made a good point, that the trailers are holding their value pretty well and I would do alright selling a trailer and buying a new one. So this got me to thinking I would target my current needs more closely.

I definitely want to go no higher than 10K gvwr, but still looking at 18 or 20 ft. I could even go as low as 7K but then my options get fewer. And most like this all have fold up ramps. My Kubota dealer has one orangeline 20ft 7K trailer in stock for $5800. I haven't seen it in person but it looks a little flimsy from the literature.


For the same price I could get a 20ft 10K Kaufman. Which definitely has nicer features


My truck is rated to tow 10700 lbs. But as someone mentioned earlier, and I am learning, it is about the weight at the hitch. As I zero in on the right trailer my debates seem to be dovetail or not, and I am definitely thinking not. 10k vs 7K. There are better options at 10K and it does allow me to max out the truck's tow capabilities, but would I be better off at 7K and have some headroom? Then the last real debate is slide in or flip up ramps. I am leaning toward the flip up for simplicity sake even though I hate having them up flopping in the wind when I am not loading. This is kind of a complete turn around from my previous thinking, but I am learning a lot in this process and now think this is probably a better way to go.
 

mcmxi

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Picking this thread back up again. I went to see the 15k gvwr power tilt at Appalachian trailers. It was way too much trailer for my truck. Also with where the tilt point was, when you raised the deck, it just came down with so much weight on my hitch. There was no way that was going to work out. I did see a bunch of their other trailers and got some different ideas about what I wanted to do.

I was talking to the guy at Appalachian and told him my thoughts were to get something with a little bit of growing room so that if my needs grew and I decided to upgrade my truck, I wouldn't necessarily need to buy another trailer. He made a good point, that the trailers are holding their value pretty well and I would do alright selling a trailer and buying a new one. So this got me to thinking I would target my current needs more closely.

I definitely want to go no higher than 10K gvwr, but still looking at 18 or 20 ft. I could even go as low as 7K but then my options get fewer. And most like this all have fold up ramps. My Kubota dealer has one orangeline 20ft 7K trailer in stock for $5800. I haven't seen it in person but it looks a little flimsy from the literature.


For the same price I could get a 20ft 10K Kaufman. Which definitely has nicer features


My truck is rated to tow 10700 lbs. But as someone mentioned earlier, and I am learning, it is about the weight at the hitch. As I zero in on the right trailer my debates seem to be dovetail or not, and I am definitely thinking not. 10k vs 7K. There are better options at 10K and it does allow me to max out the truck's tow capabilities, but would I be better off at 7K and have some headroom? Then the last real debate is slide in or flip up ramps. I am leaning toward the flip up for simplicity sake even though I hate having them up flopping in the wind when I am not loading. This is kind of a complete turn around from my previous thinking, but I am learning a lot in this process and now think this is probably a better way to go.
I would go with a 10k over a 7k for sure, and I would get a dovetail too. I have spring assisted ramps but I removed the springs so that the ramps are easy to get on and off if needed. Obviously they're a little heavier without the springs but certainly not a struggle to lower or raise. I've found myself needing to remove the ramps for certain loads, but I'd rather have the ramps attached than have them stowed, as they are in my 16ft PJ dump trailer. Those ramps are a bugger and no fun to use.

That Kaufman looks like a good trailer. I like all of the features, and I like that the jack is inside the frame of the tongue. I welded hooks on my MidSota trailer for a CURT weight distribution hitch system and had to relocate the jack from the outside to the inside of the tongue.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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curious....According to tractordata, the LX2610 weighs about 2300#, so what else WILL be on the trailer ?
Maybe a recap is in order ( 3 pages...) but I can't see why the TH70 wouldn't work fine for you ?
Bigger is NOT always better. Longer trailer is heavier,costs more to haul, where to store, etc. and costs more to begin with !
 
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mcmxi

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curious....According to tractordata, the LX2610 weighs about 2300#, so what else WILL be on the trailer ?
Maybe a recap is in order ( 3 pages...) but I can't see why the TH70 wouldn't work fine for you ?
Bigger is NOT always better. Longer trailer is heavier,costs more to haul, where to store, etc. and costs more to begin with !
As the OP stated, when you drop down to 7,000 lb GVWR you don't always have the desirable lengths available. Looking at Kaufman's website and equipment trailers, there's only a 14ft option for the 7,000lb models. For an additional $1,500 you get more capacity both in terms of weight and length, and additional standard features like a tool box, rub rail, lower deck height, better tires, etc.

It's not my money but the extra GVWR is matched to the tow vehicle so why wouldn't you want to have a trailer that allows you to use all of the towing capabilities of the truck? Sure, if you never load it up to the GVWR you could make the argument that you paid for a feature that you never used, but having the option is a big deal in my book. You might find yourself using the trailer to tow more than just a tractor and implement. I use mine for all manner of stuff such as implements, pipe, pallets of concrete, concrete blocks, etc.
 
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dirtydeed

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I definitely want to go no higher than 10K gvwr, but still looking at 18 or 20 ft. I could even go as low as 7K but then my options get fewer. And most like this all have fold up ramps. My Kubota dealer has one orangeline 20ft 7K trailer in stock for $5800. I haven't seen it in person but it looks a little flimsy from the literature.

My truck is rated to tow 10700 lbs. But as someone mentioned earlier, and I am learning, it is about the weight at the hitch. As I zero in on the right trailer my debates seem to be dovetail or not, and I am definitely thinking not. 10k vs 7K. There are better options at 10K and it does allow me to max out the truck's tow capabilities, but would I be better off at 7K and have some headroom? Then the last real debate is slide in or flip up ramps. I am leaning toward the flip up for simplicity sake even though I hate having them up flopping in the wind when I am not loading. This is kind of a complete turn around from my previous thinking, but I am learning a lot in this process and now think this is probably a better way to go.
Ok. Just so you know. Appalachian is Owned by Kaufman (er. I believe its Kaufman).

Regarding trailer. Get the 20' 10K with fold down ramps (should weigh in approx 2,500 lbs) Then add a spare and some chains etc and you're up to almost 2,800. The 20 footer is necessary for any long rear implements. I can just barely fit my tractor with landscape rake and gauge wheels on my 20 foot deck. The longer deck also gives you some wiggle room to position your equipment on the trailer with the right amount of hitch weight that you may want.

I can get my machine (same as yours) on my 16 footer with the hoe turned sideways or with a box blade on it. There's no way the landscape rake would fit.

B2650 with hoe on 16 foot 7K landscape trailer...

16ft trailer 1.JPG


same machine on a 10K 20 footer...

New tow rig 2.JPG


I'd suggest passing on the slide in ramps or you will need to use jacks or blocks to keep the ass end of your truck from lifting.

max weight on my trailer would be 8,500 with 1,500 on the hitch (my dump can handle that without issue).
 
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fried1765

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Ok. Just so you know. Appalachian is Owned by Kaufman (er. I believe its Kaufman).

Regarding trailer. Get the 20' 10K with fold down ramps (should weigh in approx 2,500 lbs) Then add a spare and some chains etc and you're up to almost 2,800. The 20 footer is necessary for any long rear implements. I can just barely fit my tractor with landscape rake and gauge wheels on my 20 foot deck. The longer deck also gives you some wiggle room to position your equipment on the trailer with the right amount of hitch weight that you may want.

I can get my machine (same as yours) on my 16 footer with the hoe turned sideways or with a box blade on it. There's no way the landscape rake would fit.

B2650 with hoe on 16 foot 7K landscape trailer...

View attachment 96309

same machine on a 10K 20 footer...

View attachment 96310

I'd suggest passing on the slide in ramps or you will need to use jacks or blocks to keep the ass end of your truck from lifting.

max weight on my trailer would be 8,500 with 1,500 on the hitch (my dump can handle that without issue).
IMHO that trailering setup would really be better with the hoe bucket sitting on the trailer deck.
 

dirtydeed

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In Ontario ,both buckets must be 'secured' with strap or chain...
Maybe so in your neck of the woods. But, that's why the manufacturer makes them with transport locks.

YMMV
 

GreensvilleJay

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Well the bucket isn't locked... it is possible(yeah snowball's chance in Hell ) that all the pins securing the bucket to the BH will ALL fail at the same time and the bucket could fall off the trailer.
A strap would prevent bucket from falling off the trailer....

Stupid law from the same guys who decided that all vehicles must have a white light on the rear license plate so the cops can see it( cause BOTH their headlights are burned out ??? )

and.... if you arrive on horseback at a Holiday Inn or other 'place of sleep' called xxxINN,they must provide a stall and feed for your horse.
 

dirtydeed

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Jay, let me try to shed a little bit of light on this for you. The backhoe is equipped with a transport lock for exactly this reason. You do not need to chain the backhoe (hoe) to the trailer deck if the boom lock is engaged. It's in the regs. Not sure about you all above the 49th? But here, boom lock, no chains.

However, the reason that you see larger backhoes being trailered with the boom lashed to the deck (not using the boom lock), is because they can't utilize the boom lock due to height restrictions. The boom to dipper joint is well above the cab/canopy on larger machines. They'd be whacking underpasses and taking out those lovely roof structures at fill up stations.

e.g. it has a boom lock but would likely be too high sitting on top of a trailer.

M62.JPG


I would agree that if possible, you're best to lower it and chain it. However, I've found that trying to chain a bucket to the dove tail section of a trailer is sorta pointless. I'd say 8/10 times, that chain is loose when you get to your destination. At least that's what I've found when binding an excavator bucket with Boom/dipper at 90 degrees and bucket on dove tail. It simply doesn't work.

Hope that helps.
 
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cthomas

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I used to go to an auto auction every week and a dealer had a trailer like that and in sucked for loading cars(low ground clearance), for trucks it was okay. So if you are using it just for trucks or tractors it would be okay. I do remember it was slow to jack to deck down to the ground. Ok, I trailer my LX2610 with loaded rear tires, mid-mower, loader, BH77 backhoe, and also it has a cab. I have a 10k 18 foot trailer with a 2 foot dove that has slide in ramps, that weighs 2800 pounds, I make sure the brakes on both axles are working and use a weight distribution hitch as I tow all this with a 2016 Chevrolet Colorado long box with a few hundred more pounds in the bed. Yes. a bigger truck would be nice, but I feel my setup is safe as I avoid the interstates and pull over to allow others to go around me as I will be doing the speed limit. And yes I do believe I could go 75 mph(it might take a minute or two to get their).
 
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PaulL

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On ramps, I agree that having fold up ramps means a lot of wind resistance when the trailer is empty. Is that important? Not sure.
 

GreensvilleJay

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hmm, I don't know the 'sail effect' of that style ramp but an empty trailer with foldup ramps in a strong cross wind could be 'interesting' ?


BTW common sense and the guv can't exist together...... :giggle:
 
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