Any ideas on how I can safely lift and install 18ft pole barn timbers?

PaulL

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601
Jul 17, 2017
2,442
1,366
113
NZ
I suspect it can be done, but your constraints are:

  • can't drag the posts or push them - rebar sticking out - so need to lift them and drop in vertically
  • quite long so get a lot of leverage
  • not overly heavy, just hard to manoeuvre - BX can lift them fine
  • risk of tipping BX over if you get them off centre

So I think your real options are either to lift the pole directly from above centre of gravity - which would require some sort of extension for the BX to be able to lift from that high. Or a block and tackle arrangement of some sort mounted to the pallet forks (so not using the BX hydraulics to get it vertical, but using the forks as a frame to hoist from). Or some way to pull the thing upright and strap it onto the BX pallet forks once already vertical.

Of the options, I like the last, because you're not on the tractor while you pull the poles upright (which is the more dangerous part), and once they're upright and strapped in, then as long as you move slowly you should be OK.

Do you have a high enough building or tree somewhere near? I'm thinking of a block and tackle up a tree - take the posts over there, pull one end up with the block and tackle until the post is vertical, lift the pallet forks most the way up, then strap the vertical post to the frame, lift it a bit, then drive slowly to the hole. Lower it in, use some trash timber to nail an a-frame on it to get it plumb, pour the concrete, move to the next.

Only real risk in here is if it tips over whilst moving the tractor and post. The posts are 18ft, the BX lifts 6 foot, the pallet fork frame is probably 3 foot high - so your top tie point is about halfway up the pole. A small frame extension on the pallet forks would get you past halfway for a tie point. So it shouldn't be too tippy, you just have the usual balance issue of heavy loads on a fully raised FEL. If you have reasonably level ground then the issue is really all about momentum - it won't tip over whilst not moving. If you go slowly the momentum won't get you.

It's probably not safe in a legal sense, but I'd sure as hell do it. No doubt the missus (otherwise known as safety squirrel) wouldn't approve, but she'd probably go inside and refuse to watch.

I guess another option is the without tractor option - get some steel poles that you can lift high enough to make a teepee around the hole, then just use a block and tackle to lift the pole directly above the hole, then bang the rebar in, then lower it. Means you need 24 foot or thereabouts steel pipe, but that's probably not impossible. You'd have to reconstruct the teepee over each hole, might be easier to rent a hoist.

Thinking even more laterally, try one of the methods some others suggested to slide the pole into the hole and push it vertical. Then strap to forks and lift it, and bang the rebar in, then drop it again. So if the rebar goes in after you get it vertical, the limitation of not being able to drag it can be relaxed. And you don't have to drive around with the pole vertical - you just lift it and drop it again.
 
Last edited:

flyidaho

Well-known member

Equipment
L 3301 HST
Feb 28, 2017
428
253
63
IDAHO
In these parts, we set the pressure treated poles right in the ground, on compacted gravel, and pour concrete around it. Use rebar if it makes you feel better, but it isn't needed. I've done it this way for 40 years and all the buildings i've put up (as in doing it many times a year as a working carpenter) are like the day I built them. The concrete will bond to the wood like you wouldn't believe, and it will also bond to the rough sides of your hole. Using sono tube is the worst thing to do, BTW. The only reason I bring this up (and I'm sure many here will say you have to use it) is it makes setting the pole in the hole without caving it in much easier.

Just went through this yesterday, with some California amateur builders, they are using real pretty round rebar cages around all the posts, I wanted to point out that all the other post buildings in our area didn't, and they are not settling. I'm setting trusses with my crane for them next week, but I won't say anything about using rebar, or not. Heck rebar is cheap, use it if you want, just my two cents worth. I've pulled posts with my crane, and the ground adhesion is unreal, 7,000 lbs. on one job, and when it finally came up it looked like just 2 maybe 3 bags of post mix was used going down 30".