Any advice on which one to buy?

[KansasKubota38]

I am currently shopping for a tractor, Kubota seems like a logical choice (dealer down the road). I have 40 acres (20 hay meadow, 20 woods) only 10 manicured acres. My main use for this will be dirt work, but I will be using brush hog and land planer/box blade. Over all everything is on a gradual grade for the land. My wife has plans for a rock wall so I can get stones around 800lbs. I'm on a budget of around 13k.

My questions: HST concerns me buying used, I've only ever owned manual transmission. Any opinions?

A loader is mandatory around 1000lbs so the L2501 tripped my trigger, but it appears to not have a live pto. Is this true? I don't want my PTO to stop if I push the clutch.

Final question: 4wd vs 2wd? I've never owned a 4wd machine so I legitimately don't know the benefit.

 

[calibdovah]

I am currently shopping for a tractor, Kubota seems like a logical choice (dealer down the road). I have 40 acres (20 hay meadow, 20 woods) only 10 manicured acres. My main use for this will be dirt work, but I will be using brush hog and land planer/box blade. Over all everything is on a gradual grade for the land. My wife has plans for a rock wall so I can get stones around 800lbs. I'm on a budget of around 13k.

My questions: HST concerns me buying used, I've only ever owned manual transmission. Any opinions?

A loader is mandatory around 1000lbs so the L2501 tripped my trigger, but it appears to not have a live pto. Is this true? I don't want my PTO to stop if I push the clutch.

Final question: 4wd vs 2wd? I've never owned a 4wd machine so I legitimately don't know the benefit.

4wd is nice to have but not mandatory, if it's only a couple thousand more I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it, especially if you're doing dirt work. I'm not sure about the live pto thing bc I have a gst, it runs similar to a manual, so when I press in the clutch it disengages the PTO.

 

[mcfarmall]

The 13k budget puts you solidly in the used market category. 4wd will be a big "must" if your doing 800lb rocks with a FEL.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

The 13k budget puts you solidly in the used market category. 4wd will be a big "must" if your doing 800lb rocks with a FEL.

agree with 4wd comment.... for me making loader work w/o would be a real pain in the arse. Around here trying to sell a scut w/o 4wd (or assist) is very very hard.

 

[GeoHorn]

Yep, 4WD is a “must” for loader work…and HST is really nice if you do a lot of back-and-forth, forward-backward-forward loader work. Gear-drive is “ok” for loader-work but gets a bit slow/troublesome if lots of back-and-forth goes on…but if you’re patient and avoid “jammin’ gears”… it does the job.
Gear drive is great for mowing, plowing, grading, etc…. HST will burn more fuel doing those jobs.

A loader will spoil you. I will never again own a tractor that doesn’t have a loader.

And KEEP that load LOW as possible...preferably below the front axle. Raising a load above the tractor is asking for injury or death if moving from one place to the other.

And another warning:

 

[My Barn]

We have both manual and HST...Each has it's benefits! Most tractor have live PTO, ours have live PTO! They have FEL I like HST over manual.
At 13k your looking at a used tractor.

 

[fried1765]

I am currently shopping for a tractor, Kubota seems like a logical choice (dealer down the road). I have 40 acres (20 hay meadow, 20 woods) only 10 manicured acres. My main use for this will be dirt work, but I will be using brush hog and land planer/box blade. Over all everything is on a gradual grade for the land. My wife has plans for a rock wall so I can get stones around 800lbs. I'm on a budget of around 13k.

My questions: HST concerns me buying used, I've only ever owned manual transmission. Any opinions?

A loader is mandatory around 1000lbs so the L2501 tripped my trigger, but it appears to not have a live pto. Is this true? I don't want my PTO to stop if I push the clutch.

Final question: 4wd vs 2wd? I've never owned a 4wd machine so I legitimately don't know the benefit.

To get a very good quality newer used machine your budget may need to go up a bit.
For loader work you definitely need 4WD.
Make SURE that you.... BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR....the FIRST time!

Kansas would seem to have realistic used tractor prices.
West coast, and Northeast....not so much.

colemanequipment.com will likely be your best Kansas Kubota source for parts.

L2501 WITH HST apparently has a live PTO.
L2501 with MANUAL transmission apparently does not!
Others will know more about this!

 

[radas]

Seems like used LX2501 HST, LX2610, or B2650 (or similar older generation tractor) will fit the bill. With that much acreage, unless you're comfortable servicing a machine with higher hours, you may consider putting money down and taking advantage of financing the difference with low rates (if such terms exist now) and buying a new or new-er machine.

With that much acreage, I'd consider saving a little longer and buying the most tractor you can afford. Kioti also makes a capable model similar to the L2501 that is slightly more affordable, but I'm partial to Japanese myself.

 

[fried1765]

Seems like used LX2501 HST, LX2610, or B2650 (or similar older generation tractor) will fit the bill. With that much acreage, unless you're comfortable servicing a machine with higher hours, you may consider putting money down and taking advantage of financing the difference with low rates (if such terms exist now) and buying a new or new-er machine.

With that much acreage, I'd consider saving a little longer and buying the most tractor you can afford. Kioti also makes a capable model similar to the L2501 that is slightly more affordable, but I'm partial to Japanese myself.

Machines listed above having approx. 1,000 lift capacity "at the pin", would seem to be pushing the OP's ability to comfortably lift/move 800 lb. rocks.

 

[radas]

Machines listed above having approx. 1,000 lift capacity "at the pin", would seem to be pushing the OP's ability to comfortably lift/move 800 lb. rocks.

Depends on how high he wants to lift, loader lift @ full height at pin for the L2501 and the Kioti CK2610 are 113X and 13-14XX respectively. Lift at pin going to 1m (3ft) will be much higher. Considering OP's budget, and that all 3 of the machines listed are $8-12k above OP's budget new, they seemed like decent suggestions. Personally, if I had OP's acreage/projects and a higher budget, I'd go for an MX or Grand L.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Contrary to some here, you do not NEED 4WD or HST for 'loader work' !! Ask any previous generation or older farmer what THEY used...odds are it will have been a 2wd, gear tranny tractor.
My 1st D-14 ( have 4) , was used a LOT as a loader, clutch pedal cross hatches almost worn out !

yes, both 4wd and HST are great options, IF affordable. Having a cab with air helps too...
Big issues for loader work are 1, max out front tire air pressure and 2, do NOT turn unless moving
HST is great to slowly position heavy things just right...

re: 800# stones... rule of thumb.. a 1'x2'x3' block of limestone will weigh about 900 # (stone is about 150# per cubic foot). I helped lay 50 pieces a month ago, 2by2by4,so 2400#+.Had a Kubota ???80 excavator with thumb. Machine was $700 a day to rent..money very well spent.

 

[nbryan]

My B2650 would fit the bill for you quite nicely, IMO. 534kg lift at pin for its LA534 loader (1177 lbs.).

Your $ budget wouldn't get you a new B50 or LX series bare tractor, never mind any added implements. And it's hard it seems to acquire a used Kubota CUT for much less than new.

Good luck with that!

I went new with a substantial down payment and 0% Kubota financed and insured the balance over 7 years.

I'd bet my machine would be just right for your uses. I'm also running the BH77, 5' dixie mower bush hog, 60" box scraper, wood chipper, frobt snow blower, ssqa pallet forks (a must - get them!!!), post auger, and a few other basic implements.

For lawn finishing I stayed away from a mmm. Got a less expensive new JD 48" riding mower. It's so much more convenient to run.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

The 13k budget puts you solidly in the used market category. 4wd will be a big "must" if your doing 800lb rocks with a FEL.

Yes, there is a big difference in traction when digging dirt, and when carrying a load in the bucket, can be a big difference in steering.

In some situations, it can be the difference in safety, or even in getting the job done or not.


But, people did live without it for a lot of years, so it's not mandatory. Just really, really nice.

 

[RichardD]

KansasKubota,
In todays market it will be tough getting a tractor to meet your needs in your price point. PurpleWave auctions in Manhattan is a good source And of course KanEquip. KanEquip is where I bought my new MX5100 a few years ago. It does everything I want it to do and more! 4wd,FEL,forks,roto tiller and brush hog. I already had the tiller and brush hog. I haven’t had a thing go wrong with it so far. HST would be nice, but I’m fine with the gears. No cab, but I did add the sun shade later from aftermarket. I had originally thought of going with a smaller tractor and now I’m really glad I went bigger.

 

[GeoHorn]

Contrary to some here, you do not NEED 4WD or HST for 'loader work' !! Ask any previous generation or older farmer what THEY used...odds are it will have been a 2wd, gear tranny tractor.
My 1st D-14 ( have 4) , was used a LOT as a loader, clutch pedal cross hatches almost worn out !

yes, both 4wd and HST are great options, IF affordable. Having a cab with air helps too...
Big issues for loader work are 1, max out front tire air pressure and 2, do NOT turn unless moving
HST is great to slowly position heavy things just right...

re: 800# stones... rule of thumb.. a 1'x2'x3' block of limestone will weigh about 900 # (stone is about 150# per cubic foot). I helped lay 50 pieces a month ago, 2by2by4,so 2400#+.Had a Kubota ???80 excavator with thumb. Machine was $700 a day to rent..money very well spent.

What GreensvilleJay wrote is true about 4WD…but if you do serious (heavy) loader work your rear tires will lose traction (and you can lose control of your tractor on anything wet/slippery/hilly) if you don’t keep those rear tires Very Firmly ON the ground…. You will need some SERIOUS ballast on the rear.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

My loader D-14 had loaded tires,which was real common farming practice in the 50s and 60s.... 5 or 8 of the original power adjust rims were destroyed by calcium,sad cause combine rims just don't 'look proper'.....
Every 'loader' should have ballast, dang forklift has 4000# of cast iron on the back !
If you can, opt for easily removal ballast like a carryall with weight box,so you can add the right amount for the job AND be able to easily remove when tractor has to do other jobs that don't need 500-1000# on it's butt.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

If you can, opt for easily removal ballast like a carryall with weight box,so you can add the right amount for the job AND be able to easily remove when tractor has to do other jobs that don't need 500-1000# on it's butt.

Excellent advice. Just in case our OP isn't familiar with those terms:

Carryall:

CountyLine Carry All at Tractor Supply Co.

Find CountyLine Carry All in the Hauling Attachments category at Tractor Supply Co.The CountyLine Carry All is ideal for small moving and carryi

www.tractorsupply.com

Weight box:

Now, an IBC tote isn't what most people think of when they think of a weight box, but it gives you an infinitely adjustable weight box that is easy to fill and empty. If you aren't using it in freezing weather, all it needs is plain water, and you can put enough in it to overload most tractors. Some might not like their weight sloshing around, and that's a valid point, depending on what you're doing. You can always just use the cage and fill it with rocks, too.

But if you insist on a conventional weight box, suit yourself:

tractor weight box at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

As you can see, they come in all kinds of flavors.

 

[jyoutz]

Contrary to some here, you do not NEED 4WD or HST for 'loader work' !! Ask any previous generation or older farmer what THEY used...odds are it will have been a 2wd, gear tranny tractor.
My 1st D-14 ( have 4) , was used a LOT as a loader, clutch pedal cross hatches almost worn out !

yes, both 4wd and HST are great options, IF affordable. Having a cab with air helps too...
Big issues for loader work are 1, max out front tire air pressure and 2, do NOT turn unless moving
HST is great to slowly position heavy things just right...

re: 800# stones... rule of thumb.. a 1'x2'x3' block of limestone will weigh about 900 # (stone is about 150# per cubic foot). I helped lay 50 pieces a month ago, 2by2by4,so 2400#+.Had a Kubota ???80 excavator with thumb. Machine was $700 a day to rent..money very well spent.

I don’t think the comparison is valid to those older 2wd farm tractors. A modern cut is significantly lighter and 2wd models have front axles that are fairly weak for loader use.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Any '2wd CUT that is lighter with a weak front axle' should not have the option of a loader from the manufacturer. Iif it does, then it has been properly designed for that purpose. Carrying an 800# stone does require a strong tractor. I have had 12-16 HP GARDEN TRACTORs with loaders than can easily carry 450# all day long.
I was trying to point out you do not 'need' 4WD or HST for loader operations,especially for that light of a load. Now both should make the task easier but not necessary. Kinda surprised someone didn't say you had to have a grapple or block lifter. Either of those does make the stone work easier but then you'd need a bigger tractor as they subtract from the loader's lifting capacity. I've found that pallet forks work a lot better than a bucket for block work.
The old timers did impressive amounts of very heavy work without all the fancy 'bells and whistles' today's generation seem to think are needed to get the job done. In the end it's about getting the best machine you can afford to get the tasks done you want in whatever time you have.

 

[NCL4701]

I have put many more hours on this 2WD Farmall than the 350 or so hours on my Kubota. First loader I ever operated. Many days moving cow manure, dirt, wood chips, gravel. The loader will lift about the same as the Kubota. It has a mechanical dry clutch, no shuttle shift (just clutch and stick), no power steering, no down pressure, but does have an aftermarket 3 point so ballast is pretty easy to add.

I have less hours on this. I have moved 800lb rocks (and larger) with both. Both are adequate to move 800lb rocks (sometimes 2 at a time).

As you can see in the picture of the Farmall, it lives with the Kubota. I could simply move the Kubota aside and use the Farmall whenever. But I don’t.

I like power steering, especially when there’s a lot of weight on the front end like when I’m using the loader. I like HST. I like 4WD when the bucket is full and the front end is a little downhill on wet ground. I like 4WD when pushing into a pile of rock or dirt.

If loader work was a rarity and the area I was going to do it in was flat, I probably wouldn’t care much about the transmission and 4WD. If your not on flat ground, 4WD is actually a big deal for loader work. No doubt a 2WD with any transmission that has a forward and reverse of some sort will work (even without power steering) albeit not as efficiently and with quite a bit more operator effort than 4WD HST with power steering. BTDT.

But, possibly because I’m a big weenie, every time I need a loader I have a choice which one to pull out of the bay, and it’s always the Kubota these days. YMMV.