I have one of the pivot pins frozen in the backhoes stabilizer foot pivot. Have been soaking it in Kroil for about a year, but cannot seem to get it to budge. What kind of tool is required to push the pivot pin out?
Another question about New BX23S .. Broken bolt on Backhoe
- Thread starter cuzmarc
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85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Have you tried to place pressure on that pivot foot when you are trying to remove? For example - place it in the down position raising the rear on that side.
BOTH of the stabilizer pins were seized when I bought this tractor, but the left one finally came loose with some persuasion and kroil. The Right one has been soaking for nearly two years in Kroil, but it's still stuck.
I've tried pressure, no-pressure, a hammer, a BIG hammer, (8-lb sledge), an air-hammer, etc. Have considered take a cutting wheel to the arm to slice along the length of the pivot pin and re-weld it once I am able to finally remove it, but that's pretty drastic measure. Was hoping to find in anyone knew of a hydraulic removal press tool that is made for such a situation that could be rented or ???
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Not quite a BFH but maybe close…
I’m wondering if there’s anyway you could use a hydraulic gear puller? In a fashion that, rather than pulling a gear, the center pin of the puller would push on the pin you want to remove and maybe force it out?
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
have you removed the grease zerk, cleaned out all the old grease, pour kroil in there? better yet, use some air pressure to 'blast' the kroil into the grease channel ?heat will help, it'll let the oil move to follow the heat. you really need to see kroil flow out where the grease is supposed to come out,then pump thicker oil in(ATF ),more heat,more oil, then the BFH with a helper ! One to hold a bar FLAT on the pin, and a BFH swinger.
fried1765
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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Try heat, then Kroil, then heavy hit, then heat, then Kroil, then heavy hit, etc, etc.
Once you do get the pin out, try coating it, and the hole, with dry graphite,..... before replacing.
Liquid penetrants/oils of any type, are nasty dirt attractors, and those pads are ALWAYS in the dirt!.
I check those pins regularly, for being free.
My L48 was 13 years old when it came to me, and had lived outside.
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Yes. zerk removed, passageway cleared with a drill bit, then a 1/8" NPT street elbow and fitting installed for having a 6" tall tube to be filled with kroil, then capped with a plug to keep contaminates out while using it. Every few weeks, I would top off the Kroil to ensure it was staying soaked.
After one year, it still hadn't budged. SO, I bought one of those zerk-clearing impact tools that you use a hammer to provide a spike in pressure While still full of the Kroil, I whacked it a dozen or more times with a fine mist flying all over the place. Still no joy, so it's back to soaking in Kroil for another year.
Still unable to get it to budge. So thinking it's time to ask for help in locating a hydraulic jack/tool designed for the removal of these things. If push come-to-shove, Ill build one, but was hoping to avoid having to do that...
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The foot pins are free. What is stuck is the arm pivot where it mounts to the backhoe frame.
I would use a large enough diameter brass rod and a big hammer to knock the pin out. Once out, you can either have the pin cut down a few thousand or using a kingpin reamer, ream out the bushings to fit the pin.
I had a similar problem with my LandPride landscape rake. The rear wheel wouldn't swivel, so I replaced the plastic bushings with new ones. I had to ream the hole to get the height adjustment pin into the hole for the wheel to spin. I told the dealer about it so should someone else have a problem like that, they would know what to do to fix it. The only problem that I can see is that most people don't have a kingpin ream in their home toolbox.
As for the painted-over grease fittings, I found a few on my BX23S, but I bought the tractor used. I just scraped the head of the grease fitting and pumped some grease into them. Never thought about checking closely to see how much grease they took. I will check it when I put it back onto the tractor.
I had a similar problem with my LandPride landscape rake. The rear wheel wouldn't swivel, so I replaced the plastic bushings with new ones. I had to ream the hole to get the height adjustment pin into the hole for the wheel to spin. I told the dealer about it so should someone else have a problem like that, they would know what to do to fix it. The only problem that I can see is that most people don't have a kingpin ream in their home toolbox.
As for the painted-over grease fittings, I found a few on my BX23S, but I bought the tractor used. I just scraped the head of the grease fitting and pumped some grease into them. Never thought about checking closely to see how much grease they took. I will check it when I put it back onto the tractor.
Two more cycles (a week or two apart) of using a LARGE 2-arm puller both with heat AND using a large brass hammer, then another round of soaking in Kroil, removing the puller, and using a brass drift and a 4 lb maul... Still no joy... Am considering cutting the pin, removing the stabilizer from the machine completely and trying my 30-ton press on it... 
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Just a dumb question here but are you 100% sure that there is not some cross pin or bolt holding the pin in place?
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Well after 4 pages I'm confused over WHICH BH model has the super stuck pin !
I just did my BX23S (like the OP...) and whack,whack they all came out.....
I just did my BX23S (like the OP...) and whack,whack they all came out.....
I'm not familiar with the setup on your tractor, but a couple of thingsTwo more cycles (a week or two apart) of using a LARGE 2-arm puller both with heat AND using a large brass hammer, then another round of soaking in Kroil, removing the puller, and using a brass drift and a 4 lb maul... Still no joy... Am considering cutting the pin, removing the stabilizer from the machine completely and trying my 30-ton press on it...
-I assume the arm moves?
-I'm also assuming there are no clips or anything holding it in, wouldn't be the first time...
-If the arm moves, the pin is only frozen on either the ear(s) or the cylinder/arm itself.
-If you can locate exactly where it's frozen that should help.
-Depending where it's frozen you may want to consider drill a bunch of small holes at the edge of the pin to help loosen the corrosion. You'll have to replace the pin but honestly I'd want to anyways at this point.
Just because yours isn't seized doesn't mean his isn't.
I've seen parts so corroded together they're effectively one piece of metal.
That was actually one of my early mechanic lessons. Taking apart the rear suspension of an AWD Celica.
Frozen bolts in rubber bushings....
The right stabilizer arm/leg for the BH (BackHoe) moves and articulates on its pivot, making it useable, but the pivot pin is stuck SOLIDLY into the stabilizer arm. The holes in the BH frame that are SUPPOSED to keep the pivot pin from falling out had nothing in them when I first got the tractor, so not understanding yet what was keeping in place, I simply put a couple grade 8 bolts in the holes and lubed the pin along with all of the other pins on the various lube-able locations on the tractor.
However, when I actuated the stabilizer, BOTH of these G-8 bolts were sheared off as if they were butter or had been put into a shear.
This was about 5 years ago when I purchased this unit used with about 850 hours on it.
What I've done on this issue since purchasing this machine:
1- removed the zerk, and using a drill bit... By hand... I've cleaned out the hollow portion of the pin of years of accumulated rust, dried grease, and "gunk".
2- next, I used a dental pick to locate the lateral port's designed for the lube to reach the pivoting surface of the pin, and cleared them as best I could.
3- When even then it would not accept grease, I removed the grease as above, and then fabricated a standpipe of 1/8 NPT copper tubing of approx 6" tall, and using a 90-deg el, and a short piece of copper tubing threaded into the hole for the zerk. I then put enough KROIL into the now hollowed center of the pin, such that it filled the 6" tall "stand-pipe", and I added a cap over the top, to keep it from losing Kroil, or getting more debris into it. I have kept that full of kroil, in the hopes it would eventually seep into the area that is obviously seized.
4- I've used cycles of heat (acetylene torch), hammers, mauls, pullers, etc.
5- about a year ago I saw an ad for a tool designed to get "stuck grease zerks" to accept fluid. It's basically a metal tube with a piston into which to fill with your favorite light fluid (in this case KROIL), then install it on to the zerk, and whack the butt end of the piston repeatedly with a hammer, in an effort to force the fluid into the cavity. It apparently has not made a difference either...
Every 3-4 months since I first found this issue, I have tried all of the above even once using an air-hammer gun on the end of the pin... Nothing to date has loosened this pin in the arm.
Anyway, this hasn't made the machine unusable, it's just one of them things that bugs me to no end, as I HATE not being able to properly lube and maintain ALL of the functions of my equipment.
Ouch, that's the worst option.The right stabilizer arm/leg for the BH (BackHoe) moves and articulates on its pivot, making it useable, but the pivot pin is stuck SOLIDLY into the stabilizer arm. The holes in the BH frame that are SUPPOSED to keep the pivot pin from falling out had nothing in them when I first got the tractor, so not understanding yet what was keeping in place, I simply put a couple grade 8 bolts in the holes and lubed the pin along with all of the other pins on the various lube-able locations on the tractor.
However, when I actuated the stabilizer, BOTH of these G-8 bolts were sheared off as if they were butter or had been put into a shear.
If it was stuck in the "ears" it would be easier to drill out.
If you want it out you may have to drill both ends completely away (in the ears), so you can pull the arm out and drill out the rest.
You may be able to get it out with a press, but it sounds like it will have to be drilled.
Without looking at my BX23S I don't know for certain if my idea of using a ball joint remover kit will help to put some positive pressure on the pin. I think the reason you can't drive it out with a drift pin and a hammer is there is nothing to keep pressure on the other side as you hammer. The only other thing that I can think of is to use an air hammer to beat it out. It is going to take a heavy hammer and someone else holding the drift pin while you beat on it. I think that I would consider putting some serious heat on the area to try to expand the metal around the pin
dirtydeed
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I'd give candle wax (paraffin) a try. Heat the snot out of the area then set a candle (or bar of paraffin) on the pin. Let the wax melt and be drawn into the joint.
Hope it works for you.
Hope it works for you.
they did their job, made and delivered.
Reversing the charge just costs everyone. I don't do it generally. A lot of people do, but they don't seem to understand some things
and having been on the other side of the counter, a reversal doesn't necessarly mean that they're getting that money back. I can fight it-and often do-and have a high percentage of keeping the funds. It's not that hard. I can think of maybe a couple times in the last 30 some years that I've had to eat the cost. Ya know what? Both of those customers came back at a later date, too. And guess what? IF I were "that" kind of person, I could just as easily charge them a little more to offset the original cost. I don't and didn't but there are others who do. OR I could refuse to work for them. OR in the case of a pizza place, ya never know what they're gonna do to the food the next time.