Another new guy with questions.

[CaveCreekRay]

Sheepfarmer,

Lubing those takes some spray lithium grease (Home Depot). Shake up the can good first. You could use some of the "extra" loader grease but it would attract dirt and be a booger to clean when it got all "gumulated."

The main areas are the pivots the lever rides on. Spray lithium goes on wet and then soaks in the cracks and crevices while you are wiggling the control lever. Then it dries to a nice clingy grease. A couple good sprays takes care of it for a long time (6 mos). Try to get it on all four sides.

Ray

 

[Diydave]

Fro65 first let me apologize for drifting the main topic of your post a bit with the questions about lubing the loader, but somehow in my mind they fit with new owner questions. I will be collecting some New Finish and hoping for decent weather, but since we are north of you it might be a while. Glad you asked about the paint. I learned a lot.

Cave Creek Ray's comment about using the WD to clean up the finish after greasing was right on. It works! I think greasing the loader zerks is like giving horses paste wormer. You calculate the right dose, then add about 20% to take care of the amount that will go on the outside of the horse, be spit out, or wiped off on you. I got 17 out of 18 zerks before it got too dark. My tractor has grease all over it.

The question about the pivot points not having zerks arose because the sticker that says to lube them was placed next to the big pin that holds the loader to the tractor, and so I assumed that Kubota was naming that junction a pivot point. Had no idea what they were calling the other joints. A case of not engaging brain before opening mouth I need a glossary of Kubota terms for the anatomy of a tractor! And a few more diagrams.

And for another question, can anyone tell me where the "joints of control lever linkage" are and what it/they look like? Nothing looks very accessible between the valve joystick and the hydraulic hoses. I have an 805 loader and it says to lube them in the manual, but no picture.

Thanks everyone

I have a bit of linkage lube advice. Try a can of fluid film spray lube. it comes with a straw to direct the spray in tight places. Where to spray, anywhere metal hits metal. Might have to pull up rubber boots, if so equipped. Oh, and it's made out of lanolin, which is sheep, squeezed hard enough to get them in that can...

 

[sheepfarmer]

I have a bit of linkage lube advice. Try a can of fluid film spray lube. it comes with a straw to direct the spray in tight places. Where to spray, anywhere metal hits metal. Might have to pull up rubber boots, if so equipped. Oh, and it's made out of lanolin, which is sheep, squeezed hard enough to get them in that can...

Thanks diydave!
Ah so... there is a boot which might conceal the parts of interest. I'll see if it comes up tomorrow and see what's there. BTW not necessary to squeeze sheep to fit in can, if you wash them in hot water they shrink

 

[Fro65]

sheepfarmer,

No apologies necessary...I'm learning right along with you. Your added questions just mean I won't have to ask them later

tcrote5516,

Is a powder coated surface more porous than a painted surface? If I wax my machine and if I should ever need to do some touch up, will the wax removers used in autobody shops sufficiently remove the wax from the powder coat so as not to get fisheyes in the touch up paint? Our local powder coat people have absolutely no answers for me.

Thanks again.

 

[tcrote5516]

It's not more porous per say but it doesn't lay as flat as a decent paint would. (think bad orange peal on a MAACO paintjob). Because its not porous you will have no issues removing the wax. Even something as simple as carb cleaner on a rag will get you back to base material if you need to touch something up.