I have an L2650. I am replacing the water pump. Can anyone tell me if it is safe to use an anaerobic gasket dressing safe to use, or can the dressing clog any thing up? the reason I am replacing is it starting leaking. I'M concerned there might be some slight imperfections in the gear case.
anarobic gasket dressing on water pump
- Thread starter mickey harmon
- Start date
anaerobic will work fine with coolant but will not fill large scratches or warps like RTV will. I use grey RTV on oil and water joints, never had a problem.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Re: anaerobic gasket dressing on water pump
You want to use the factory gasket and RTV, anaerobic won't work for that!
You want to use the factory gasket and RTV, anaerobic won't work for that!
I use Detroit Diesel anerobic sealant or Kubota 3 Bond on about everything. I especially like the 3 Bond as well as gaskets.
One word of caution. If you replace the water pump, get a Kubota pump and not a cheapo Amazon of Flea Bay one. I believe Wolfman went through the generic water pump issue a while back and had major issues from a minor replacement.
One word of caution. If you replace the water pump, get a Kubota pump and not a cheapo Amazon of Flea Bay one. I believe Wolfman went through the generic water pump issue a while back and had major issues from a minor replacement.
I do have a kubota water pump. I was wondering if the little bit of the sealer that compresses out would harm anything inside the system, since the sealer does not cure with the presence of oxygen.
No and 3 bond is not soluble in coolant or oil. Neither is any of the other mentioned gasket sealers.
I replaced the waterpump on my Kubota a couple years ago. After much research, I opted to simply use the proper gasket installed 'dry'. (It will tend to 'swell' when antifreeze touches it after installation)
I DID make sure that all mating surfaces for the gasket surface were clean. flat. and parallel. A light rubbing with a KNOWN FLAT sharpening-stone goes a long way to removing burrs and high-spots. Any knowledgeable machinist will tell you that they use a matched-pair of ground-flat stones to remove burrs from mating surfaces.
Also make sure to torque the fasteners evenly and equally. (not unlike installing a wheel.)
The only leak I encounterd a couple weeks after replacing waterpump was a hoseclamp which needed to be snugged. (DO NOT over tighten hose-clamps lest the hose will be permanently damaged.... just snug enough to not leak)
I DID make sure that all mating surfaces for the gasket surface were clean. flat. and parallel. A light rubbing with a KNOWN FLAT sharpening-stone goes a long way to removing burrs and high-spots. Any knowledgeable machinist will tell you that they use a matched-pair of ground-flat stones to remove burrs from mating surfaces.
Also make sure to torque the fasteners evenly and equally. (not unlike installing a wheel.)
The only leak I encounterd a couple weeks after replacing waterpump was a hoseclamp which needed to be snugged. (DO NOT over tighten hose-clamps lest the hose will be permanently damaged.... just snug enough to not leak)
as long as the surfaces are clean of old gasket and undamaged, a dry gasket is all that is needed. I've seen WAY too many people put silicone or other "dressing" on gaskets unnecessarily; a lot of the time it's more trouble than it's worth. It is simply not needed in most applications.