Hi All, just wondering if others have had issues with the AC Clutch not working. Clutch is pretty expensive. Almost better to purchase compressor and clutch to make sure.
Air Conditioning Problems
- Thread starter gmbc
- Start date
A lot less work to change just the clutch though! Why is it not working? Is the air gap excessive?
A new clutch is $800 from Kubota in Canada and a compressor is $2300 If I only needed a clutch I sure wouldn't be replacing the whole compressor.
Is the clutch not engaging? If so, it could be an electrical problem, not a clutch problem. What brand is the compressor? You might be able to source a clutch from another source, unless it is a proprietary part from Kubota.
I wonder if this AC system has a low refrigerant switch that could cut off electricity to AC comp clutch? I checked out the parts catalog but didn't locate the LP switch. Several reasonable AC compressors show when compressor part # is placed in Google search. 1st one shown below lists gmbc's tractor.
https://www.fridayparts.com/for-kub...MInOaetZi15gIVAdvACh0H7QZ1EAQYASABEgIxW_D_BwE
https://www.fridayparts.com/for-kub...MInOaetZi15gIVAdvACh0H7QZ1EAQYASABEgIxW_D_BwE
Attachments
It looks like there is a Low Pressure switch in the system.
Kubota: SWITCH ASSY, PR
Part Number 33770-96290
Vendor Kubota
Messick's Price $134.31
I'd 2nd the recommendation of checking pressures before proceeding with clutch/compressor replacement. If you don't have suitable pressure gauge, perhaps jumper the switch connector momentarily to see if the clutch becomes energized. WARNING: Don NOT run it with the jumper in place too long or compressor damage is possible due to the low refrigerant.
In the event the pressure switch is damaged, this link has a cheaper alternative and lists the specs for the switch.It's ridiculous the multiple Kuobta wants for this commodity item.
https://www.abilenemachine.com/low-pressure-switch-am33770-96290
SKU AM33770-96290
M108S ASN 70283, M120 BSN 70656, M5700 BSN 10952, M7580, RTV ASN 14541
Normally Open
Opens at 30 PSI, closes at 34 PSI
11mm metric thread, M11x100 thread - male
Good luck and let us know the outcome.
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I agree checking AC pressures is very important. I guess I must have overlooked the LP switch. I thought Kubota AC system should have a LP switch. IMHO Kubota parts schematic's could be a little more user friendly. I'm no newcomer to looking up parts since I've been viewing parts schematics since the middle 1960's. I'll try harder this time.
200mph
I looked for the LP switch in B2650HSDC parts catalog again with no success. Can you PLEASE reveal what section you located switch in?
Thanks,Jim
I looked for the LP switch in B2650HSDC parts catalog again with no success. Can you PLEASE reveal what section you located switch in?
Thanks,Jim
I applaud the effort in looking!!!
It's shown in drawing P12100 AIR CONDITIONER PIPE
See attachment for more detail.
Let me know if you need more help.
I agree Kubota doesn't always make it easy to find the parts.
Attachments
Follow BOTH AC lines and look for the low pressure switch to be mounted on the low pressure line or sometimes called the suction line. The LOW pressure line will be the one that is larger in diameter.
You can check the pressures of the system without the compressor running. You can test the clutch by disconnecting the clutch wiring and carefully putting 12 volts across the two leads coming from the AC clutch. If it clicks in with the external 12 volts, then you either have a wiring, fuse or low pressure problem.
Buying the compressor from Kubota is too expensive. Look at the compressor and find the manufacturer name such as "Denso". STAY away from the CHINESE or rebuilt compressors. They are JUNK!
I have a 2007 Dodge/Cummins powered pickup. My compressor got noisy. I researched it and bought TWO brand new compressors for Cheaper than one from Dodge. If you have to replace a compressor, you need to flush out the lines, condensor and the evaporator to make sure there are NO contaminants left. The receiver drier MUST be replaced.
You can check the pressures of the system without the compressor running. You can test the clutch by disconnecting the clutch wiring and carefully putting 12 volts across the two leads coming from the AC clutch. If it clicks in with the external 12 volts, then you either have a wiring, fuse or low pressure problem.
Buying the compressor from Kubota is too expensive. Look at the compressor and find the manufacturer name such as "Denso". STAY away from the CHINESE or rebuilt compressors. They are JUNK!
I have a 2007 Dodge/Cummins powered pickup. My compressor got noisy. I researched it and bought TWO brand new compressors for Cheaper than one from Dodge. If you have to replace a compressor, you need to flush out the lines, condensor and the evaporator to make sure there are NO contaminants left. The receiver drier MUST be replaced.
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200mph
Thanks for posting parts schematic info. I viewed that schematic but overlooked the switch. I think I need to improve my "'ancient reading comprehension"" as I'm not a green horn when it comes to viewing parts schematics! I've noticed some other farm equipment manufactures parts schematics such as JD are getting more difficult to understand/navigate
Thanks again,Jim
Thanks for posting parts schematic info. I viewed that schematic but overlooked the switch. I think I need to improve my "'ancient reading comprehension"" as I'm not a green horn when it comes to viewing parts schematics! I've noticed some other farm equipment manufactures parts schematics such as JD are getting more difficult to understand/navigate
Thanks again,Jim
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When you find the low pressure switch, disconnect the plug, turn the AC on in the cab and most times, you don't need the engine running BUT have the IGNITION switch ON. Take a test lead or even a paper clip, and touch BOTH terminals in the plug that connects to the low pressure switch. If the clutch is good, it should close. If the clutch works, then look for a leak and recharge the AC.
Some leaks are so slight that it is almost impossible to locate them. A lot depends on how old the system is. If the tractor is 10 years old, and it took 10 years to loose enough refrigerant that it triggered the low pressure switch, adding a can or two of refrigerant might be the way to go. You should have gauges on the system, so you don't overcharge it. Knowing how to read the gauges is most of the battle in doing these type of charging. I use a refrigerant with a dye in it, so it makes finding the leak a lot easier with a black light. Today, many times the leaks are in the condenser or evaporator, and can be difficult to find, even with the dye. If the system is totally void of refrigerant, then the next best thing is to vacuum it down, inject some dye, and pressurize with nitrogen, and then visually start looking for the leak. If when vacuuming the system, you have difficulty pulling it down to at least 800 microns, you have a major leak somewhere in the system. Some of these leaks can be as simple as replacing an O-ring, and others will require major surgery to get to the leaking component. A word or caution when vacuuming a system, many times it will hold the vacuum, but as soon as you pressurize it will start leaking. I have found this most times it is a bad O-ring. If I have to replace O-rings, and they are the old butyl type, I replace all the O-rings in the system with the green Viton O-rings. Might as well do them all, because it isn't that much more work, once you get into the system. If it were mine, I would wait for warmer weather before doing this job. Let us know what you find.
Well going to leave the AC till spring. The AC seems to work for short time then cuts out. I checked and seems to have enough freon using pressure gauges. Is there an inline screen in the system it seems like as if it run for short time and shuts down almost like a blockage. This tractor only has 600 hours and never had AC apart but could happen. May have to take it into dealer as to recharge will have to go there as in Canada have to have special licence to buy freon plus have to buy 30lb bottle. Thanks to all for your responses.
" May have to take it into dealer as to recharge will have to go there as in Canada have to have special licence to buy freon plus have to buy 30lb bottle. Thanks to all for your responses."
That should be the case but unfortunately not true. I'm an HVAC tech and it burns me that anyone can buy freon at Canadian Tire to refill there cars, tractors, ect. The other issue you may have could be either the condenser or evaporator coil are plugged with debris. Checking it with gauges you should be able to see what pressure causes the compressor to stop. Too high or too low.
That should be the case but unfortunately not true. I'm an HVAC tech and it burns me that anyone can buy freon at Canadian Tire to refill there cars, tractors, ect. The other issue you may have could be either the condenser or evaporator coil are plugged with debris. Checking it with gauges you should be able to see what pressure causes the compressor to stop. Too high or too low.