Air compressor

[GreensvilleJay]

dang LPs-3 is $40 a can now and probably not a good thing in the air for spray painting ! ?

wonder if you can linex a new tank ?

 

[fried1765]

dang LPs-3 is $40 a can now and probably not a good thing in the air for spray painting ! ?

wonder if you can linex a new tank ?

I have not bought any LPS-3 lately, but have usually bought it by the 5 gal. can.
I fogged the inside of my 80 gal. Quincy tank (several coats), and let it dry for 6+ months, before using it to spray.
I have had the compressor now for years, and have sprayed more than a few gallons of paint, with no issue.
I have both a post compressor air filter, and a pre gun filter.

I would certainly not consider "Linex" for the inside of a tank!

 

[jaxs]

Here's my two pennies on the situation. That is a fine compressor but no way I'd spend $500 having tank tested. Even if you have it tested that doesn't mean it will last another 20 years. Before I'd spend $500 on a test I'd buy a new tank,recieve a warranty and pocket the savings. If you are nervous about it,put it outside in a lean-to. Before we get into possibility of it taking the wall out or leveling the building,consider how dynamite works. Contrary to what happens in movies, if you put dynamite next to a tree or beneath a stump it will scatter dirt but the stump will survive. Bore a hole in stump then insert same charge and stump will blow into pieces. That means 3 sides and roof of lean-to should be fragile , NOT concrete.
80 gallons is overkill for a home shop so here's another solution. Add pipe,guages and valves to alow using 80 gallon tank on those rare occasions where high volume tools are in use but new and smaller tank is in use 99% of time. including impact tools that need high pressure but not especially high cfm. There's no sense in filling 80 gallons just to change a tire or majority of other chores. Some folks can make the system leakproof so air is stored for days but mine always leak off and being a skinflint I'd rather lose 20 gallons than 80.

 

[DustyRusty]

The tank on my old compressor rusted out, and it leaked air. It didn't blow up. I wouldn't be afraid to use it. The local auto shop that I am friends with just had its old compressor tank develop a leak at the bottom, lost all the air, and flooded the floor with rusty water. For the tank to blow apart, it rarely happens, and then only when grossly overpressured. Read this from Garage Journal

Catastrophic air compressor explosion *warning*

be careful

www.garagejournal.com

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I contacted Linex and they DO air compressor tanks,local shop has done several.

The problem I have with LPS3 or similar is you're ALWAYS spraying it into the air,unless you've got GREAT filters.

As for size of tank, I've got a 60 and an 80 would be nice. I charge up during the day, then can spray at night without the pump coming on upsetting the neighbour on hot summer nights.
If you ever consider 'sand blasting' you NEED a huge volume of air and pressure,BTDT but not any more..

 

[fried1765]

I contacted Linex and they DO air compressor tanks,local shop has done several.

The problem I have with LPS3 or similar is you're ALWAYS spraying it into the air,unless you've got GREAT filters.

As for size of tank, I've got a 60 and an 80 would be nice. I charge up during the day, then can spray at night without the pump coming on upsetting the neighbour on hot summer nights.
If you ever consider 'sand blasting' you NEED a huge volume of air and pressure,BTDT but not any more..

My Quincy 5HP, 175psi, 2 stage, 20cfm, compressor with 80 gal.tank, can barely keep up with my small sandblast rig.

 

[DustyRusty]

My Quincy 5HP, 175psi, 2 stage, 20cfm, compressor with 80 gal.tank, can barely keep up with my small sandblast rig.

I have the same compressor and there is a twist valve on the compressor head plumbing that allows to motor to keep spinning when the cut-off switch tells it to stop. I use it for sandblasting and the compressor keeps up with my blasting.

 

[fried1765]

I have the same compressor and there is a twist valve on the compressor head plumbing that allows to motor to keep spinning when the cut-off switch tells it to stop. I use it for sandblasting and the compressor keeps up with my blasting.

I have never noticed that!
I will TRY to remember to look for that..... in May!

I will need to try to fix the relief/blow off valve on top of the compressor also.
When I left, it was sticking open.
I soaked it with Kroil, through the blow out hole, but to no avail.
I wonder if I may have to replace that valve?

 

[DustyRusty]

Those valves seem to have a design problem. Mine were "reconditioned" under the warranty, and they still leaked. Then they replaced them under the same warranty. Today they still leak, and I have learned to live with it.
Below is a picture of the valve. I doubt that you have one on you Quincy since mine was a "special offer" and I had to install it myself. I don't remember if the driver handed it to me along with the instructions on how to mount it or if he told me how to do it and what to buy. That is darn near 40 years ago, and I am not even certain about that timeline. I guess it was too much for them to install it before the compressor was delivered. I installed the brass valve and the copper line. I will have to get a picture of how the copper line connects to the painted blue line. There might be something in the manuals about this, however, I am not even certain where they are.

 

[fried1765]

Those valves seem to have a design problem. Mine were "reconditioned" under the warranty, and they still leaked. Then they replaced them under the same warranty. Today they still leak, and I have learned to live with it.
Below is a picture of the valve. I doubt that you have one on you Quincy since mine was a "special offer" and I had to install it myself. I don't remember if the driver handed it to me along with the instructions on how to mount it or if he told me how to do it and what to buy. That is darn near 40 years ago, and I am not even certain about that timeline. I guess it was too much for them to install it before the compressor was delivered. I installed the brass valve and the copper line. I will have to get a picture of how the copper line connects to the painted blue line. There might be something in the manuals about this, however, I am not even certain where they are.
View attachment 118611

Those valves seem to have a design problem. Mine were "reconditioned" under the warranty, and they still leaked. Then they replaced them under the same warranty. Today they still leak, and I have learned to live with it.
Below is a picture of the valve. I doubt that you have one on you Quincy since mine was a "special offer" and I had to install it myself. I don't remember if the driver handed it to me along with the instructions on how to mount it or if he told me how to do it and what to buy. That is darn near 40 years ago, and I am not even certain about that timeline. I guess it was too much for them to install it before the compressor was delivered. I installed the brass valve and the copper line. I will have to get a picture of how the copper line connects to the painted blue line. There might be something in the manuals about this, however, I am not even certain where they are.
View attachment 118611

Nope!
Totally different location, and very different valve!
The valve I have a leak problem with, is an automatic pressure release type valve, and is on the head of the
compressor.

 

[DustyRusty]

Nope!
Totally different location, and very different valve!
The valve I have a leak problem with, is an automatic pressure release type valve, and is on the head of the
compressor.

Yep, that is the one that I was referring to, there are 2 of them on the top of the head. One for the high-pressure piston and one for the low-pressure piston. The other valve is the constant run valve with the copper tubing. Two entirely different things.

 

[fried1765]

Yep, that is the one that I was referring to, there are 2 of them on the top of the head. One for the high-pressure piston and one for the low-pressure piston. The other valve is the constant run valve with the copper tubing. Two entirely different things.

Unfortunately I am 1,600 miles away from my big Quincy until May.
The valve that is malfunctioning is on the top of the smaller piston, ........which I assume is the high pressure piston?
Do you have any idea if this is a valve that can be cleaned up, or should I plan on replacing it?

Just looked up 175psi relief valves, and Quincy is very proud of theirs.
$115 or $128.....
Generic, on the internet, is $13, or less?

 

[DustyRusty]

Unfortunately I am 1,600 miles away from my big Quincy until May.
The valve that is malfunctioning is on the top of the smaller piston, ........which I assume is the high pressure piston?
Do you have any idea if this is a valve that can be cleaned up, or should I plan on replacing it?

Just looked up 175psi relief valves, and Quincy is very proud of theirs.
$115 or $128.....
Generic, on the internet, is $13, or less?

I assume that they can be cleaned, but that is what the service tech did on mine only to come back a couple of months later and replace it. The replacement lasted a couple of years before it started leaking again, and it only leaks when the compressor isn't running and it allows all the compressed air to escape to the atmosphere.
If you think that they are proud of their valves, check out the price of the Quincy Quin-Cip Air Compressor Oil costs. It is a full synthetic 30-weight oil, that must be pressed out of gold nuggets.

 

[fried1765]

I assume that they can be cleaned, but that is what the service tech did on mine only to come back a couple of months later and replace it. The replacement lasted a couple of years before it started leaking again, and it only leaks when the compressor isn't running and it allows all the compressed air to escape to the atmosphere.
If you think that they are proud of their valves, check out the price of the Quincy Quin-Cip Air Compressor Oil costs. It is a full synthetic 30-weight oil, that must be pressed out of gold nuggets.

That is what my valve does.
Leaks when the compressor shuts down.
I will remove my valve, (in May) and see if I can free it up.
I may just buy some generic 30W synthetic oil, and change that too.

 

[Thunder chicken]

Well i finally finished plumbing some air lines. I had 1" black pipe on hand so thats what I used. I have one 1/2" coupler and a 1/2" hose for my little sand blaster, it wont starve for air! The reel has a small water seperator on it as well, so this should be pretty dry air. Certinally overkill for the odd nailer or cleaning a rad! But, im future proofed now for a pretty good price!
I borrowed a plasma cutter and sure was glad to have the air supply from this rig.
A new tank in the 60-80gal range is well over $1g for those that suggested that.

 

[fried1765]

Well i finally finished plumbing some air lines. I had 1" black pipe on hand so thats what I used. I have one 1/2" coupler and a 1/2" hose for my little sand blaster, it wont starve for air! The reel has a small water seperator on it as well, so this should be pretty dry air. Certinally overkill for the odd nailer or cleaning a rad! But, im future proofed now for a pretty good price!
I borrowed a plasma cutter and sure was glad to have the air supply from this rig.
A new tank in the 60-80gal range is well over $1g for those that suggested that.

Your install looks very nice!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yes, looks real good but....
when you have time, please reinstall the belt guard on the air compressor..
..not that the belt will break and cause you harm.but when the pressor 'magically' cutsin while yo're standing here, scares the beejeebers out of you and your hand lightly touches the belt and gets pulled round the little pulley

 

[DaTow'd]

I have a 5hp 220vac 2 cylinder compressor with a 60 gallon tank for air tools but hardly ever use due to a mess of Milwaukee electric tools.
Now it is just used to pump up tires and shut it off before the tank gets full.
For serious air we have a diesel powered jack hammer wheeled compressor. I hang a 6 man nylon tent (that the cat pissed on)
from the over head monorail trolley in the shop and put what ever I want in for sand/soda blasting. The screen "windows" let the air out but trap the sand/soda/walnut shells. I haul it up with chain blocks and the floor traps all the spray. I filter and reuse the sand.
Works good