Agri-fab gear-drive tiller bearing seal

[Willabe]

Anyone had to tear into one of these before? I have a leak in the bearing seal on the tiller shaft, but can't for the life of me get the bearing out. I've tried a standard puller (tines won't fit in the raceway), two different pilot bearing pullers (one has too short of arms and the other too wide of arms to fit between bearings), and a puller I fabricated specifically to fit this bearing prior to realizing that the tapered profile of the raceway is almost impossible for anything to grip.

Out of frustration, I finally resigned myself to pulling the entire gearbox off only to find that the two bearings (one on upper input shaft and other on lower tiller shaft) are seated tight enough to prevent me from getting the gearbox off without risking damage.

Am I missing something obvious? Thoughts? Suggestions?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I don't want to state the obvious, but if you remove the snap ring it's going to make it a lot easier to get the bearing out.

 

[Willabe]

The snap rings were all off prior to trying to pull the bearings. I just hadn't removed them yet when I took these pictures.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

model # ? I'd like to see drawings of how it's put together. Perhaps the bearing comes out from the inside ?

 

[Willabe]

Unfortunately, prior owner removed the info plate with model # when they repaired the tiller. I haven't been able to find a diagram for any Agri-fab tillers.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

bummer.. what width tiller ? fwd or rev ? maybe Google can find a manual.....it likes me

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That shaft is the tiller shaft right?

 

[Willabe]

bummer.. what width tiller ? fwd or rev ? maybe Google can find a manual.....it likes me

60" (5ft) forward direction with gear drive. Maybe you'll have more luck then me. I couldn't even find a legit Agri-fab website; everything seemed to be Chinese commerce sites.

 

[Willabe]

That shaft is the tiller shaft right?

Yes. I also unbolted the far end of the tiller shaft thinking I could slide the shaft out that way, but the first tine mounting bracket on the shaft prevents the shaft from moving far enough to come all the way out that way (without first removing bearings).

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Just looking at the limited pictures it looks like removing the whole side plate might be the best option.

 

[Willabe]

Just looking at the limited pictures it looks like removing the whole side plate might be the best option.

I tried, but the upper and lower shafts are so tightly fit in the bearings (which are seated in hubs integrated into the plate) that I couldn't get the plate off. Or at least without feeling like I was going to destroy the bearings. Maybe I'm being too gentle, but some solid "taps" from a deadblow didn't move the plate (I did unbolt everything before trying to get off).

 

[Willabe]

I tried, but the upper and lower shafts are so tightly fit in the bearings (which are seated in hubs integrated into the plate) that I couldn't get the plate off. Or at least without feeling like I was going to destroy the bearings. Maybe I'm being too gentle, but some solid "taps" from a deadblow didn't move the plate (I did unbolt everything before trying to get off).

Just realized it might help to warm it up a little before trying to remove; it is sitting in my 30 degree shop.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

curious...how do you know it's made by Agri-fab ?
similar tillers have the center stub shaft bolted from behind,so any pix of the other side ?

this 'long distance diagnosis' can be challenging ! but it beats shovelling snow !!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I tried, but the upper and lower shafts are so tightly fit in the bearings (which are seated in hubs integrated into the plate) that I couldn't get the plate off. Or at least without feeling like I was going to destroy the bearings. Maybe I'm being too gentle, but some solid "taps" from a deadblow didn't move the plate (I did unbolt everything before trying to get off).

Did you pull the top gear?
There are bolts hiding behind it that look to be holding the side plate on.

Maybe some more pictures of it, like pictures of the other side might help us better understand.

 

[Willabe]

Here is an older picture (pre taking cover and plate off) the back side of the plate showing where the tiller shaft seal was leaking. Illget some additional pictures once I'm able to get back out there.

I actually misspoke also saying it was Agri-fab. It is actually Agri-machinery not Agri-fab. I know because it says it on the tiller.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

thanks for the name , makes it easier to go find the real drawings...!!
I'm curious to see how they built it,so far 3 different ways !

Only valid hit so far...

Agri-Machinery 3 PT Hitch 60 Inch Rotary Tiller [22FD12001-004] | Team Auctions

Location: Kinuso, AB - 36 km west of Slave Lake or 50 km east of High Prairie, yard number 9210 This item is "Unreserved" and sells to the highest bidder.Agri-Machinery 3 PT Hitch 60 Inch Rotary TillerNo PTO shaft

internet-bidding.teamauctions.com

closed auction BUT some pictures. Don't think it's the same model though....

I'd have thought there would be hundreds of hits.....sigh, I'll have my 'bot' keep looking.

 

[Willabe]

thanks for the name , makes it easier to go find the real drawings...!!
I'm curious to see how they built it,so far 3 different ways !

Only valid hit so far...

Agri-Machinery 3 PT Hitch 60 Inch Rotary Tiller [22FD12001-004] | Team Auctions

Location: Kinuso, AB - 36 km west of Slave Lake or 50 km east of High Prairie, yard number 9210 This item is "Unreserved" and sells to the highest bidder.Agri-Machinery 3 PT Hitch 60 Inch Rotary TillerNo PTO shaft

internet-bidding.teamauctions.com

closed auction BUT some pictures. Don't think it's the same model though....

I'd have thought there would be hundreds of hits.....sigh, I'll have my 'bot' keep looking.

That actually DOES look like the same (or very similar) model.

Really hammering on the plate I was able to get it to move maybe an ⅛ of an inch, but doesn't feel like it will be going any further. Some more pictures.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

great , more pictures ! I like pictures..makes me think just HOW did they put it together.....
the lower , tine shaft I think has to come out.
there has to be an 'oil seal' on tine side..so the bearing was installed from that side ?
the upper gearbox shaft, same deal.

My idea is based on HOW do 'they' service it? Every bearing I've dealt with ( mower deck spindles....) you whack (ok, carefully press...) the bearing out the reverse direction it was installed.
I don't see any reasonable way to PULL those bearing out from the 'gear' side. I can see PUSHING them in though ....
At least the upper one is 'easy', unbolt the gear box, slide away from case.....,bearing may just fall out....

I'd rather be doing that than changing belts on neighbour's snowblower tomorrow !

just be careful, slow and steady progress IS progress !!

 

[Willabe]

Okay. Major breakthrough. I found a manual for a very similar tiller and it showed that the tiller shaft unbolts from the spindle on the "tiller" side of the housing (not sure how I missed this, other than the bolts were in the same area as the tiller blade bolts). Once I got that disconnected I could get the plate off and then knock the spindle out. I still need to figure how to get the somewhat recessed bearing out (no press), but at least now it makes sense. I can't reache the outer raceway from the back, so tapping it out with a punch wasn't very effective.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

NICE !
My 'cheat' for bearing removal.
Find a socket that's just a little smaller in diameter that the outer race (ring) of the bearing,connect to 6" extension. be sure it's flat against the race and whack the extension.Trick is to be SURE the socket IS flat, so every whack the bearing moves out evenly. I found a 6" extension the right length, long enough to keep hammer away from hand, short enough to not 'skew' the socket off the race.