Yesterday I ran over a stick (about 1" in diameter) on my practically new l2501. It kicked up and went into the cooling fan, breaking off one of the blades. Luckily it didn't hurt the radiator. I called my Kubota dealer and they said they would have to order one - $144 OUCH. Seems ridiculous for 3-4 ounces of plastic. Does anyone know of an aftermarket parts supplier I might contact for a replacement fan?
Aftermarket Kubota Parts
- Thread starter jtboney1
- Start date
Creature Meadow
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
2012 L4600, Disk, Brush Hog, GB60 Garden Bedder, GSS72 Grading Scraper
Yes you can try Messicks or another dealer. Does your dealer usually give you decent prices on parts or do they charge list?
They charge list (and then some I think). I did order one from Messicks and saved $20. Better than nothing. I'm just thankful the stick didn't go through the radiator. No telling what one of them would cost.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
You can not buy 99% of Kubota Parts for newer tractors aftermarket, Kubota is really good at holding patents and designs.
Messick's, Coleman's, Golden eagle and others are all Kubota dealers, they just also do online sales.
It's very rare for anyone to offer much if any discount on Genuine Kubota parts, even the parts for older tractors still fetch high prices.
Titan17
Member
Equipment
L3901 TLB, Caroni RFM, Scag Wildcat ZTR, Piranha TB,York RE 96", MTL HD 48" grap
I about to order parts from Lawneq.com and they beat meesicks by 10%. Fair shipping on $500. order but they don't ship fluids.
Some parts need to be ordered but they're a Kubota dealer. I'll post how they did.
Some parts need to be ordered but they're a Kubota dealer. I'll post how they did.
Quite a few Kubota parts on Flea-Bay and Amazon but I don't know if they are OEM or knockoff. For 150 smackers I think I'd glue the blade back on and call it good.
Case in point, I needed a 12 volt fuel solenoid for my M9. Dealer price was 102 bucks, Amazon price was 55. I bought the dealer (Kubota) part anyway because I wan't sure of the quality of the Amazon part.
The Kubota part and the Amazon part are identical except the Kubota part says Kubota on the ship bag.
Maybe I was stupid for buying the Kubota part, maybe I wasn't.
Case in point, I needed a 12 volt fuel solenoid for my M9. Dealer price was 102 bucks, Amazon price was 55. I bought the dealer (Kubota) part anyway because I wan't sure of the quality of the Amazon part.
The Kubota part and the Amazon part are identical except the Kubota part says Kubota on the ship bag.
Maybe I was stupid for buying the Kubota part, maybe I wasn't.
I have to say (not in defense of Messicks) that service before this last one, I bought all the filters for both the 9 and the 105 from Messicks including primary air filters and with shipping, the total cost was quite a bit more than my local dealer charges for the same items and I had to wait for the shipment as well and now I get junk mail from them all the time. Only one time did my local dealer not have what I needed in stock and that was the fuel cut solenoid. Everything else he always has in stock. No junk mail either....
Few aftermarket parts, aside from filters and similar items, are available for late model tractors, including Kubotas. It's just not profitable to tool up for such items unless the OEM sold tens of thousands of such tractors, e.g., 8N Ford.
If you are not in a great hurry, you can avoid paying shipping (to the dealer) by asking your dealer to order your part(s) on their next stock order rather than a regular order. I order ALL parts on stock orders and generally have all (unless back-ordered) within a week.
SDT
Acetone may allow melding the parts together...
I did it with my LEGO’s...
Otherwise known as nail polish remover, it breaks down the polymer strings, they reform when the acetone evaporates...
Use a q-tip, smear acetone on both edges. They should turn mushy.
Shove the broken ends together, hold for 1-2 minutes. Let dry...
Not sure the fan blade is made of a plastic that breaks down with acetone...
I did it with my LEGO’s...
Otherwise known as nail polish remover, it breaks down the polymer strings, they reform when the acetone evaporates...
Use a q-tip, smear acetone on both edges. They should turn mushy.
Shove the broken ends together, hold for 1-2 minutes. Let dry...
Not sure the fan blade is made of a plastic that breaks down with acetone...
If you were real industrious you could remove the fan blade entirely and affix a 12 volt cooling fan to the radiator with a thermal switch in the radiator hose to activate it. You'd pick up some horsepower and eliminate the fan entirely.
What they do with cars today. Fan belt driven fans on cars today are almost non-existent.
Nice thing about a 12 volt cooling fan is no parasitic loss from the mechanical fan and the electric fans take little amperage to run and are cheap.
I added one to both my M9 and my 105 to increase airflow through the ac condenser when I'm farming. Made a big difference in ac efficiency. Put mine in the front of the radiator instead of the back.
What they do with cars today. Fan belt driven fans on cars today are almost non-existent.
Nice thing about a 12 volt cooling fan is no parasitic loss from the mechanical fan and the electric fans take little amperage to run and are cheap.
I added one to both my M9 and my 105 to increase airflow through the ac condenser when I'm farming. Made a big difference in ac efficiency. Put mine in the front of the radiator instead of the back.
"Nice thing about a 12 volt cooling fan is no parasitic loss from the mechanical fan and ...."
The alternator has to supply the power to the fan motor and the engine has to provide the work to drive the alternator. Ain't no free lunch.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Start bolting a bunch of aftermarket parts on it, then you'll end up with the same chinese tractor that you could have gotten if you didn't buy a Kubota.
Last edited:
Did you finance? If so, you probably have KTAC insurance. File a claim and they will likely pay for the fan and the labor to have your dealer install it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Your alternator is always producing rated amps, the regulator controls the current to the storage battery and the electrical system. Consequently, an electric cooling fan just uses some of the current available when the alternator is turning. It's much more efficient and has less parasitic loss that a mechanical fan does.
Why cars today not only come with electric cooling fans but electrical power steering pumps. Less parasitic loss and only runs when needed, not continuously.
Might not be a free lunch but the cost of the lunch (parasitic drag) is much less than a mechanical fan or power steering pump which is running all the time the engine is running, needed or not.
Less parasitic drag always equals more power produced by an engine and the cooling fan is a major user of horsepower.
In my situation, I only added the electrical fan to enhance air flow through the ac condenser when the tractor was idling in hot weather. I like my cabin cool. Had the same issue with my previous 5030HTC and did the same thing to it. , plus I added rubber air dams between the fan and the condenser and radiator. Every little bit helps.
If either of my mechanical fans failed on either M. I'd be replacing them with a 12 volt cooling fan.
That is not correct. The alternator output is regulated by the regulator (hence it's name) and when the battery is fully re-charged after engine start the regulator reduces the Field voltage which in-turn reduces the output of the alternator (and subsequently the alternator does not require as much energy from the engine.)
An electric fan (or any other accessory) will draw from the battery and the regulator will then demand more from the alternator to keep the battery at full charge. The additional output from the alternator will require more HP from the engine to produce it, ... Therefore, no free ride (but it's a miniscule drag on the engine relative to the need to motivate the tractor so engine/fuel economy is virtually unmeasurable for the average guy)...HOWEVER the alternators on most Kubotas these days are 40 Amp units. If you are running lights or other accessories an added electric fan may exceed the alternator capability to keep the battery fully charged. This may result in a discharged battery at the end of the operating period...OR it may wear our your alternator prematurely due to increased demands.
On another note regarding aftermarket parts for a Kubota: The genuine Kubota 40A alternator is priced in the several hundreds ($299). An identical unit sells on Amazon for $62 https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-A...sr=8-6&keywords=kubota+alternator+34070-75601 which comes with the computer test analysis from the mfr'r (which may be the same who makes it for Kubota because I cannot tell the difference. When I took the genuine Kubota alternator off and opened it up to replace a defective regulator (cost $18 online) the internals were identical in every detail between the two alternators. Now I have a spare (the original) sitting on the shelf .
Addendum: The local auto-electric shop who specializes inrebuilding starters/alternators wanted $185 to "rebuild" my original Kubota alternator even when they agreed that all it needed was a new regulator. In my profession (retired from aircraft) anytime something is "rebuilt or overhauled" then ALL wear-parts are replaced, I.E., brushes, bearings, etc. are completely replaced and electronics (I.E. regulator, etc) are fully tested/recertified. It's my belief the automotive world merely replaces defective items and paints the unit for appearance. In other words, $18 did everything a "rebuild" would have accomplished for 1/10th the cost. Don't be afraid to dig into these things.... they're not airplanes.
Last edited:
I would not try to reattach a fan blade. Several years ago at a local demo derby a fan blade came loose and killed a spectator sitting in the bleachers. After that all fans were removed from all cars, that were entered into the derby. I realize that one was metal and yours is plastic. Just not worth the risk.
In as much as I'm not nor do I profess to be an electrical whiz (and don't want to be), I'll take your experienced word for it. However, having said that I am planning on converting both my Kubota's to 12 volt electrical cooling fans this summer and I'll make a thread concerning that and the results at that time. The 9 is already half there and has been for years., to enhance the heat transfer of the ac condenser under the bonnet.
One thing you state that I've never seen and that is a painted alternator. All the ones I have ever seen or replaced have been mill finish aluminium pressure die cast bodies.
Amperage draw on both my units is not that much as I run 100% LED lights. and I think (not 100% sure) that both my M's have 55 amp alternators.
If the amp draw is so crucial why do most vehicles today have electric cooling fans versus mechanical ones. I think the answer is they are more efficient.
Last edited: