DIY rear hydraulics with flail mower vs. dealer install?

[GettingAlong]

I have an MX5200, on ranch-type property, used for road grading, moving logs, operating large chipper (which has its own hydraulics for the chute), etc. I did not install rear hydraulics when purchased - now am looking at hydraulic flail mower for mowing sides of road, clearing meadows, etc. Also thinking of a tip/tilt for improving functionality of the box blade for road grading/ditch clearing/digging.

I have the in-place hydraulics for a front loader and an additional original equipment/installed-when-purchased third function valve for a front grapple. Dealer quoted several thousand dollars to install two sets of rear hydraulics to operate the hydraulic flail mower (about the cost of the mower!). Are there any good options for this I can install? And how hard is it? Am reasonably handy with cars/maintenance, but haven't worked on hydraulics. It looks like this could use the existing third function valve? I don't really understand why is so expensive - seems to be some time for installation and the valves/hoses. Thanks for any advice/experiences. and if this is worth it.

 

[Russell King]

The OEM valves are expensive. I think that on your tractor those would be the “best” option since the would probably mount very easily onto the tractor and look like they were factory installed.

But the installation is easy for hydraulics for the most part. I think that the hard part may be getting wheels and bodywork off to gain access to install the hoses and the valves.

So if you are good at wrenching and can follow instructions you could do it. Hydraulics are pretty much like electrical and just need to be connected correctly. If you get confused with anything there are people on here that could walk you through it and answer your questions.

You can contact your dealers sales team to get the best price for the valves in a kit. This is not parts but whole goods kits, that are normally sold when the tractor is sold but can be purchased any time.

And you can buy aftermarket items to do it yourself. But they won’t mount like the factory ones do.

 

[NCL4701]

Hydraulic top/tilt isn’t cheap even with non-OEM valves, but it is absolutely worth every penny of you do much grading/ditch cleaning/road maintenance. I have three dealer installed OEM’s on my L with dealer installed top/tilt. It’s the most expensive route. Only regret is not getting the remotes and top/tilt sooner.

There are much more cost effective options. I’m confident someone smarter than I will stop in to explain other options in detail.

 

[Survivor]

This guy will fix you right up for whatever tractor you have:

www.tractorinnovations.com

I got a two spool rear remote kit, with everything included, hoses bolt right into the factory hydraulic system just rerouting a couple hoses. Seems like it was $925 for my L2501.

It took me about a half day to install but I was really picky about my hose routing and valve and quick connect location.