Advice for new tractor owner.

[dblock55]

Hey all,

Im a new member and a first-time tractor owner! I recently purchased a 10-acre piece of property which require a lot of work. After some research, I settled on a Kubota B2601. I'm reaching out to the community for some help/advice.The property is basiclally overgrown with weeds. Around the home its been rough graded but errosion has really ruined any sort of grading as the soil type is sand/clay. This is a lakefront property so im trying to establish a beachfront and grass the rest of the property. My questions are:

1) What implements/attachements do i need to accomplish my goals? Cut down the weeds/rough grade/spread topsoil/finish grade? From what ive gathered i should be looking into a rototiller? IF this is correct can anyone suggest a make/model that will work well with my tractor. Im guessing since it mounts to the rear 3point, it doesnt need ot be brand specific. Any input is appreciated

2) I didnt get a MMM from the dealer as there are plenty on facebook marketplace, but seeing how this is a new tracotr there arent many MMM of this vintage (RCK60-32) for sale. Ive seen many RCK60-24b for sale, but im not sure if these will work with the B2601. How can i confirm if a MMM will work for my tractor?

Any other advice/wisdom is appreciated to a new tractor owner! Thanks!

 

[jkrubi12]

Welcome! Great tractor choice!

Do you have any implements/attachments already? (Front End Loader (FEL), backhoe, etc)

Depending on what the 'weeds' are, and with your plans for a tiller, be sure to size the selected implement/attachment correctly; it should be 'matched' to the tractor's power. A tiller will certainly use all the power the rear PTO can supply (19.5 HP in the case of the B2601). For the B2601 I've acquired a 54" box blade, 54" grapple and 54" bucket for FEL. Marketplace has loads of used implements, finding a suitable tiller should be easy.

If you start with a tiller, I would suggest not going larger than 50"-60"; there are also 'forward' rotation as well as reverse rotation. This device is really meant as a 'final' soil prep before seeding (although I've never had or used one. Personally, I'd look for a forward rotation model (likely more common).

With 'rough grading' already accomplished, you may be able to 'finish' the areas with a York rake. If there's dirt to be moved/replaced, think about a Box Blade. You can also do some final grading with the BB as well.

As a first-time tractor owner myself I found the 'learning curve' to be steeper than I anticipated. Perhaps some tiller owners will chime in with advice; you may be able to more or less finish the grass beds with the tiller alone.

I have no mower on my B2601, but I would consider a rear 3-pt finish mower over a MMM; I know a MMM is convenient, but I'm thinking it would be more of a PITA to mount/dismount than a rear 3 pt mower.

Good luck!

 

[dblock55]

Thanks for the advice. I've started with the basics and had the tractor specd out with a front end lower and 60" bucket with the 2 latch QA. I couldn't find any front end loaders on marketplace so I figure I'd spend the money and have the dealer install it. Everything else seems accessible on marketplace. My big issue is figuring out which implemented work for this model. Are the PTO hookups pretty common across the board? How can I ensure an attachment will fit other than physically trying it out? Thanks

 

[RMS]

Depending on the finish you are looking for on the grass/weeds, a flail mower might be an option.

 

[dblock55]

Depending on the finish you are looking for on the grass/weeds, a flail mower might be an option.

Here in Michigan we typically use Kentucky blue grass and I typically mow it 2.5"-3" with my walk behind (old property). I'm not looking for a golf course finish and can even compromise not having grass as nice as I did at my previous property because of the sheer scale of this property. But this thread was more about the best tools to rough/finish grade and prep the soil for grass. I'll cross the mower bridge when I get to it. I also need to pull sprinkler lines. Is there a trencher type tool? I don't really need to own this tool, probably will rent as this is a one and done job. Or am I better off renting a walk behind trench from HD?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

To 'knock down weeds', I've used a 6' bar and chains dragged behind the tractors for decades. Even a chain link fence and some weight will knock down weeds. It's a free implement and works ! It also will smooth out some bumps and lumps. Anyone can go 'round and round' with it, no special training needed so greta job for 'others'. Yes, mowers and tillers are fine implements but right now I'm thinking you don't want to wrap 43' of barbwire around a new tiller or hit a hidden engine block with a new mower.......
sand'clay 'soil' NEEDS 'tile' aka COMPOST. find a great spot and start making LOTS of it ! I spent 20 years doing that, 1/2ac veggie plot, rich soil, 3-5' deep. it took the 'contractor' 1 day to DESTROY the entire garden.

 

[fried1765]

Hey all,

Im a new member and a first-time tractor owner! I recently purchased a 10-acre piece of property which require a lot of work. After some research, I settled on a Kubota B2601. I'm reaching out to the community for some help/advice.The property is basiclally overgrown with weeds. Around the home its been rough graded but errosion has really ruined any sort of grading as the soil type is sand/clay. This is a lakefront property so im trying to establish a beachfront and grass the rest of the property. My questions are:

1) What implements/attachements do i need to accomplish my goals? Cut down the weeds/rough grade/spread topsoil/finish grade? From what ive gathered i should be looking into a rototiller? IF this is correct can anyone suggest a make/model that will work well with my tractor. Im guessing since it mounts to the rear 3point, it doesnt need ot be brand specific. Any input is appreciated

2) I didnt get a MMM from the dealer as there are plenty on facebook marketplace, but seeing how this is a new tracotr there arent many MMM of this vintage (RCK60-32) for sale. Ive seen many RCK60-24b for sale, but im not sure if these will work with the B2601. How can i confirm if a MMM will work for my tractor?

Any other advice/wisdom is appreciated to a new tractor owner! Thanks!

If, after cleanup, you are planning to seed grass, do not do so until mid September!
If you seed any earlier, you will grow another fine crop of weeds, and will need to do the job again.
Grass seeded in the Fall (cool) grows nicely, and is essentially weed free.

 

[RalphVa]

I agree with the other posters. You cannot just buy any FEL, which you did not, nor MMM. They need to be right for your tractor. I have never used a MMM. Cannot imagine getting that mid PTO connected nor disconnected underneath there. The ones on 3ph implements are bad enough.

If you're not sure of what's there and haven't been able to walk all over the 10 acres, I'd consider renting a bush hog first and mow it high, maybe even raising the trail wheel or setting it up about 6 to 8 inches so you can knock down weeds and see what's there. However, you need to locate any old barb wire or big stuff that might be there first.

I would never mow 10 acres even after you get it cleared. Just bush hog it about once/yr to keep really bad stuff and unwanted trees from taking over. In between, mow some trails to be able to use/enjoy it. Plant or cultivate trees.

Get a good walkbehind or ZT mower to do about 1/2 acre around the house. (Bush hogs tend to become bull dozers on turns and will gouge out grass/dirt.) I just did a hill down through the woods behind the house yesterday with the Ryobi ZT480e. Looks so much nicer that doing it with the bush hog. Got some new ribbed tires on the ZT to make this possible.

If bad soil, plop down some good compost in piles and smooth out with a 3ph rake on areas where you want good grass.

If the 10 acres has some badly uneven spots, a box blade on the 3ph can be used to smooth out those.

 

[Plant 175]

I just bought a B2601 and my suggestion would be the box blade and a flail mower As previously mentioned

 

[imnukensc]

I won't give you advice on what implements to buy. The advice I'll give you is to read your owner's manual on your tractor and whatever implements you do buy. And then, read them again! It'll keep you from asking questions that are easily answered in those manuals.

 

[hodge]

You should look for category 1 implements, and match the pto horsepower of your tractor to the implement- rule of thumb is 1 foot for every 5 hp (19.5 hp would put you in the ballpark of 4 foot pto-driven implements). That's a starting point- depending on your conditions, you may find that you can power larger stuff.

 

[Jchonline]

Hey all,

Im a new member and a first-time tractor owner! I recently purchased a 10-acre piece of property which require a lot of work. After some research, I settled on a Kubota B2601. I'm reaching out to the community for some help/advice.The property is basiclally overgrown with weeds. Around the home its been rough graded but errosion has really ruined any sort of grading as the soil type is sand/clay. This is a lakefront property so im trying to establish a beachfront and grass the rest of the property. My questions are:

1) What implements/attachements do i need to accomplish my goals? Cut down the weeds/rough grade/spread topsoil/finish grade? From what ive gathered i should be looking into a rototiller? IF this is correct can anyone suggest a make/model that will work well with my tractor. Im guessing since it mounts to the rear 3point, it doesnt need ot be brand specific. Any input is appreciated

2) I didnt get a MMM from the dealer as there are plenty on facebook marketplace, but seeing how this is a new tracotr there arent many MMM of this vintage (RCK60-32) for sale. Ive seen many RCK60-24b for sale, but im not sure if these will work with the B2601. How can i confirm if a MMM will work for my tractor?

Any other advice/wisdom is appreciated to a new tractor owner! Thanks!

First, get the weeds cut down. This will let you see the grade better overall. Next you may want to consider stripping the top layer of organics (the weeds, etc). Then re-grade it, then reseed it and add straw for erosion control.

I doubt you will be able to strip it with a B2601, so I would consider renting a Tracked Loader 8-12k lbs. It will go so much faster.
If you are set on the B2601, then first you need to loosen the material up with a tiller or harley rake, then youcan try to strip it with the bucket (or a rear blade). Again this is much harder and more expensive than just renting a TL as I mentioned above.

 

[top gnome]

Congrats on the new tractor. I love my b2301. same frame.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Looks like there is some good advice above.

Couple items I would mention / ask? Do you need or want to mow with a MMM…it’s maybe more maneuverable but if it’s not necessary, I’d recommend a rear mower…it would be a lot more convenient not to have it on when doing other tasks and taking on off a MMM would get old quickly if doing weekly or monthly. IMO.

I’d recommend forks, but I did not really see anything in your original description…I think they are very useful…IMO.

In general for the implements, if you are only going to use once, then consider to beg borrow or pay to have the work done. Spending for some service is better than buying an implement and not using. If you are going to resell it that’s different. Just IMO.

Are you planning to plant the grass seed yourself? 10acres is a pretty good patch to throw by hand. I guess it depends on how you plan to prep the soil and grade. You could spray and kill the weeds first…but the. You need a sprayer. Unless you plan to work the hand pump and spray with backpack. If the grade is tillable, you could run a disc over and drop seed…but that won’t really leave a smooth lawn so I think it depends on your goals and your approach. Some pics might help?

 

[D2Cat]

Pretty difficult to give good information without some details of soil erosion depth, budget, time frame for work, etc.

If you have ruts that are so deep you can't drive your tractor over them you need different equipment then otherwise. If you can drive your tractor around and it's rough but more bumpy with small washed areas you could probably use a box blade to smooth those out. Depending on how tall the weeds are, thickness of stems of the weeds, how much grass compared to weeds your mower choice could be a brush mower or a flail to do a nice job and keep using. They would both be three point and easy to attach and remove.

If you want a belly mower, you should order that from the dealer.

When it comes to planting grass, garden or anything that grows, go to your local County Extension Office. They can provide info for what grows well there and when to plant, etc. and it supported by tax dollars so no cost when you go in.

If watching cost it might be good to rent some implements to see how they work for you, or find them used. Not sure why you need a tiller for the work you described. A box blade will break up, drag, level, relocate material very easily.

Post some pictures so we actually know what were talking about !!

 

[woodman55]

Did you get a loader ? If you did, and I hope with ssqa. Pallet forks are a great thing to have. I would suggest a bush hog to knock it down and keep the outer areas mowed. Then a tiller, a box blade and maybe a landscape rake to shape your yard. I prefer a rear mount finish mower to a MMM.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Couple of things:

Time. If you have time, you can do a lot with small stuff. If you have to have it done NOW, then you need big stuff. But do you really need it done now? OR can you work with, say, a band of a few hundred feet around your house, and leave the rest for next year?

Same with the grass. Do you really need 10 acres of bluegrass lawn to mow? Or can you have nice lawn close to the house (close being anything from 20 feet to 1000 feet or more) and just bush-hog the rest?

Your implements should be guided by what you need to do and what your tractor can handle without overloading it. Don't get a 60 inch box blade and beat your tractor with it. Get a 48 and make a few more passes. Your pocketbook will thank you.


There are some good YouTube channels for new tractor owners. Tractor Time with Tim and My Cluttered Garage are a couple you might want to check out.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: When it comes to planting grass, garden or anything that grows, go to your local County Extension Office.

great reply but......if the house is a new build, the 'dirt' in your backyard may NOT be what everyone thinks.
Contractor building next to me DESTROYED the entire acre of 'Holland Marsh' quality top soil. Gone is over 3' of the best top soil in the country. Poof...

BTW ,unless you have a LOT of time on your hands ,mowing 1 acre is 'ok', 2 is just 'doable', 10 will be Hell on wheels.