I took both my cylinders to a hydraulics shop today. They cracked the caps on both cylinders for $50 each, and they stopped what they were working on to help me like, right now. They would have done the seal kits as well for $125 each, but I told them I wouldn't learn anything that way. So I am going to replace the seals myself. I want the advice of you all before opening them. Is there any particular thing(s) to watch for. Do I need to torque end nuts on the rod for example, or use lock tight on the same? Any other pit falls of the inexperienced that you can tell me about. Are there any pics that you feel would be good to look at b4 proceeding? Thank you each and every one in advance for a prompt response. Jim@MilkyWay
Advice before I open LA 1150 boom arm cylinders
- Thread starter MilkyWay
- Start date
RCW
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I commend your desire to do the project yourself. I likely would be inclined to do the same, but I've never rebuilt a cylinder myself either.
That said, there's some advantage to have a professional do it. They do it for a living....should be quicker and with a known positive result. Certainly important if it's critical and timely for your needs.
The same was suggested on your other thread. LA 1150 Boom Cylinder Rebuild | OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota
Ultimately, your choice. If you have the time, I would hope you would document your project with pictures here!
I would like to learn more myself!
That said, there's some advantage to have a professional do it. They do it for a living....should be quicker and with a known positive result. Certainly important if it's critical and timely for your needs.
The same was suggested on your other thread. LA 1150 Boom Cylinder Rebuild | OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota
Ultimately, your choice. If you have the time, I would hope you would document your project with pictures here!
I would like to learn more myself!I liken this to doing your own dentistry. You might be able to pull a tooth, but how successful the end result will be is to be determined after it is done. If you don't do it correctly, you have wasted materials and oil, and it will need to be done over again. Things that you are going to be doing on a regular basis is worth learning how to do, and something that you are only going to do once or twice a decade it it best to leave it to the experts in my opinion.
I’ve done a few cylinders of varying manufacturers. Pretty straightforward. Depending on the seal kit, you will more than likely have parts left over, don’t stress, most kits are like that to cover multiple units.
The gland nut will have a seal and a wiper, maybe an o ring or three. Remember, the spring or open side of seal goes towards pressure. Piston should be a few o rings and some flatter Teflon rings.
The piston nut will be tight. Eat your Wheaties.
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My big suggestion is to remove the gland nut while the cylinder tube is still on the tractor, best vice clamp you can have. Expect and be ready for oil leaking out. I use an impact gun to remove rod piston nut. I had one seal that was very tight, I put it in a container of hot hyd. Oil to soften. When it was then put on it was loose and I LIGHTLY put a hose clamp around the seal till cool and it tightened up.
Since you want to learn you're probably be doing more later, get a set of these seal installers. You can find them on Ebay, Amazon, etc.
https://www.temu.com/subject/n9/goo...b7988312e8e64779f570c7b92b&adg_ctx=f-f4a04bc4
https://www.temu.com/subject/n9/goo...b7988312e8e64779f570c7b92b&adg_ctx=f-f4a04bc4
Thanks for your input! I watched a number of YouTube vids but none for my specific loader cylinders. I intend to take pics b4 taking everything apart bc I understand that seals can be flat or o-rings, it matters which order they are placed and every other little detail that makes a difference of whether the rebuilt cylinder lasts a month or 1.5K hours.I commend your desire to do the project yourself. I likely would be inclined to do the same, but I've never rebuilt a cylinder myself either.
That said, there's some advantage to have a professional do it. They do it for a living....should be quicker and with a known positive result. Certainly important if it's critical and timely for your needs.
The same was suggested on your other thread. LA 1150 Boom Cylinder Rebuild | OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota
Ultimately, your choice. If you have the time, I would hope you would document your project with pictures here!
Thanks for your input! Your logic is as sound as anything Mr. Spock could site. I guess I'll see how it turns out.
Thanks! I did see those on one YouTube vid that I watched. It seemed to assure that by using this aid/tool that the seal landed squarely where it should rest. Again, thanks.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
I have never done a cylinder, but one word of advice is to keep everything in clean, neat, orderly manner when you're taking it apart.
When I did my first transmission, my entire shop was a giant, orderly, clean jigsaw puzzle.
(Hahahah but the sh!tty part was that it took me 7 tries to get it right......Oh man that was a week of cursing, and fits of frustrated angry outbursts....hahahah)
But I did learn a ton.
When I did my first transmission, my entire shop was a giant, orderly, clean jigsaw puzzle.
(Hahahah but the sh!tty part was that it took me 7 tries to get it right......Oh man that was a week of cursing, and fits of frustrated angry outbursts....hahahah)
But I did learn a ton.
I'd suggest taking a lot of pictures, some before you disassemble and then before you remove ANY parts. The kit is often like a carburetor rebuild kit. There are components to fit different situations and you have to be sure to get the correct one in the correct position. Not complicated, but tedious.
There is a torque spec for the nut on the rod. I have a different loader, but it was pretty easy to find a repair manual on line. I have redone six cylinders on my Kudota loader and backhoe, so far. Do not try to remove the rod by blowing compressed air into the port. The rod can come out like a shotgun slug. Fatal if you are in its path. Check the rod for straight. I had one that was bent. Swapped a "gather" cylinder for a stabilizer cylinder, since the gather rod gets a lot of use and stabilizer only now and then. The bent rod will likely cause a seal to leak, but not for a long time. BTW, the two cylinders are identical, so a swap was no problem. In torqueing the nut, I reinstalled the rod in the tractor to hold it still. I put the pin through the eye and onto the tractor. Works like a vise, but in my opinion, better. It helps me pull out a stubborn rod, too.
I crack open all my own cylinders. Bought an adjustable tool that fits the two holes on the end cap. Some of my cylinders had a soft steel square piece that you roll into a groove as you tighten the cap. Mine were so dirty, I couldn't find them on the cylinders until I cleaned them up real good. Bought the Kubota used, and it wasn't in the best shape when i got it. But I use it all the time now. Don't know how I got along without it. Good luck. BTW, it helps if you get the rebuild kit before you pull yours apart. That lets you know what all parts are being replaced and gives you a clue about how things come apart and go together. That's how I found out about the square retainer in the end cap. The cap didn't unscrew, just kept turning and turning. Once I cudgeled out the retainer, it came right apart.
I crack open all my own cylinders. Bought an adjustable tool that fits the two holes on the end cap. Some of my cylinders had a soft steel square piece that you roll into a groove as you tighten the cap. Mine were so dirty, I couldn't find them on the cylinders until I cleaned them up real good. Bought the Kubota used, and it wasn't in the best shape when i got it. But I use it all the time now. Don't know how I got along without it. Good luck. BTW, it helps if you get the rebuild kit before you pull yours apart. That lets you know what all parts are being replaced and gives you a clue about how things come apart and go together. That's how I found out about the square retainer in the end cap. The cap didn't unscrew, just kept turning and turning. Once I cudgeled out the retainer, it came right apart.
Thanks for your input! I have not gotten any good info on a few questions that I have. 1) When I am ready to re-install the cylinder with new seals do I need to fill it, much like oil and/or hydraulic filters before installing them? 2) Is there a procedure to bleed air from cylinders? I watched a YouTube vid where the guy stated that the seals blew out as a result of air trapped in the cylinder resulting in said blowout.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Just hook the cylinder up and cycle the loader a couple of times to purge any air in the system.
The YouTube idiot you watched is full of crap..
Dan
^^^^^
Nonsense. Air is compressible, hydraulic fluid is not. If the seals blew out....it was because they were the wrong seals or improperly installed. Just cycle the boom and bucket....it will purge the air just fine.
Thanks for the response. It is amazing how many specific problems are addressed on the forum with very good responses. I have been on a few forums where it seems the more degrading a responder is to the op, the higher the entertainment value, and that sux for those of us who don't turn wrenches for a living. Thanks again to all who read this.
These rams aren't rocket science , like mentioned above break the gland loose while its still on the tractor . Get the seal tool recommended , I paid a lot more for the set I have years back , but they are a name brand . Also a GOOD piston ring compressor helps alot for gettin the piston with the new packing back in the housing . A couple of oil pump cans full of hydro oil is surer handy & Cleanliness is a huge requirement .
Theres ton's of youtubes , watch several . The biggest problem I had when I was rebuilding them on my Case 580's is the nut that holds the piston to the rod . I borrowed a bigger impact gun & after a few times I bought one . Take yer time , & if it helps have someone there taking pics of the steps . Like I said these things ain't rocket science . Hit up yer local thrift shop & buy a bag of clean rags , I think I pay 3 bucks for a grocery bag full of clean rags .
good luck , don't be intimidated by them .
animals45
Theres ton's of youtubes , watch several . The biggest problem I had when I was rebuilding them on my Case 580's is the nut that holds the piston to the rod . I borrowed a bigger impact gun & after a few times I bought one . Take yer time , & if it helps have someone there taking pics of the steps . Like I said these things ain't rocket science . Hit up yer local thrift shop & buy a bag of clean rags , I think I pay 3 bucks for a grocery bag full of clean rags .
good luck , don't be intimidated by them .
animals45
1. No. You would, of course, lube everything with clean hydraulic fluid as you reassemble it.
2. Working the cylinders in and out with the engine running will bleed the air. If the seals blew out on that other guy's cylinder, there was likely another problem. Trying to bleed them would be a very messy and almost impossible task. Your lines going to the cylinder probably have air in them as well. Like I mentioned, I did a bunch of my own, and never bled them and never had a problem. Good luck.
BTW, I also have a bucket truck with a bad cylinder. I'll take that one into a shop. The cylinder is huge and weighs a ton and I have no equipment to handle it.