Adjustments on a box scraper

[Chris11]

Can anyone help me with the adjustment phase of my new BX25 and the attachment Box scraper?

I've tried different adjustments to use on the field grass to level particular portions with differing results.

The instructions with the box scraper leave a lot to be desired.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Adjusting the top link shorter will make it dig deeper and pull more material.
Longer on the top link will let it cut less and cause it deposit the material quicker.
The side link adjustment longer will cause it to dig more on that side and shorter will cause it to dig less on that side.

 

[Quagmire33]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LxuEDGSGOZA

I found this video one of the most helpful out of all I watched. There is a learning curve. I suggest going into a part of your property that you can play and just try doing different things. I just got my boxblade two days ago and I'm still learning with about 8 hours of seat time. I set mine up on my driveway so I could see what the blade was going to try and do. I also spread some dirt over my lawn and I shortened the top link way up so the front of the sides were hitting the ground leaving the cutting edge up about an half inch or so. Letting the sides of the box help to keep the edge from cutting in. Have fun with the box blade. Its a very versitile tool.

 

[Burt]

Can anyone help me with the adjustment phase of my new BX25 and the attachment Box scraper?

I've tried different adjustments to use on the field grass to level particular portions with differing results.

The instructions with the box scraper leave a lot to be desired.

Chris11,

I agree with others comments. One of the best ways to learn is to pile either gravel or dirt in an area where you can practice and watch or have someone watch as the dirt or gravel piles up into the box. Then as you go over a shallow area or a hole, it will drop into that depression and smooth out. Shorten or lengthen your top link to put less or more dirt into the box. The top link is the key to most of it and unless you are pulling up turf or preparing for a garden, you won't need your rippers for any smoothing.

The you tube videos are a good example of what a box blade can do and yet leave out the adjustment portion.

If you tilt your blade using the bottom links, you can also clean out a ditch very nicely and quickly, or even dig out a trench.

It's one of the most useful 3 point attachments out there.

Burt

 

[ipz2222]

A box scrape is allmost useless on grass or tryingg to level dirt that has grass dirt clumps in it. Gravel, dirt and sand is what it's for.

 

[Chris11]

Thanks all.

Perfect explanations and also I watched the video.

The grassy field IS difficult to smooth out or remove dirt/grass. I found I had to make many passes to make much of a dent. A dozer would be better I would think.

Today I had some gravel delivered and was able to practice smoothing it out. It was digging too deep so I lengthened the upper rod and that really helped. I still need more practice but more gravel is coming next week so I should get better. I hope.

Next step is learning to attach the box scraper efficently to the tractor. 3 point hitches aren't as easy to attach as I was lead to believe.

 

[kubotaman574]

I use a Quick Hitch, makes hooking up and removing a 3 min job

 

[Burt]

Thanks all.

Perfect explanations and also I watched the video.

The grassy field IS difficult to smooth out or remove dirt/grass. I found I had to make many passes to make much of a dent. A dozer would be better I would think.

Today I had some gravel delivered and was able to practice smoothing it out. It was digging too deep so I lengthened the upper rod and that really helped. I still need more practice but more gravel is coming next week so I should get better. I hope.

Next step is learning to attach the box scraper efficently to the tractor. 3 point hitches aren't as easy to attach as I was lead to believe.

Chris11,

Look up Pat's quick hitch on the internet. Also, check out Hodges's stabilizers for the lower arms. My wife can change out our 3 point stuff now with these 2 attachments which make life easier. Pat's quick hitch is a heftier version of the stuff you can find out there that resembles harbor freight's 3 point quick hitch. Pat's cost more but are stronger and I believe more intelligently designed.

Burt

 

[In Utopia]

Having a hydraulic top link makes it really neat, change attack angle on the fly.

 

[Chris11]

Quick link seems to be the way to go.

Except I've already cut a piece of 3/4" plywood and plan on putting some casters under it, then dropping the box scaper on it. I can then simply move the Box Scraper around where I need it when attaching it to the 3 point. Seems easier than having to spend the initial time needed to attach the quick link to the lower arms. Plus I really don't want to buy a longer upper arm if needed as the Amazon reviews suggest.

I do thank you all for spending your time to educate me.

Oh, one question. I did grease the bearings in the arms and wondered at the time if it was a dumb idea since dust would adhere to the grease and be worked into the races. Was I supposed to grease them?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Quagmire33]

I usually just spray the links with a penetrating oil. My thoughts are the same as yours with the grease attracting the dirt.

 

[ShaunRH]

Only thing I've found that doesn't attract dirt and dust is silicone spray. Spray and let dry, that's about it.

If you want you can try paraffin wax but it's not easy to work with. Heat the links to 'warm' and rub a bar over the links.

 

[kubotaman574]

use motorcycle chain wax

 

[D2Cat]

I use a spray can of "chain lube", which is graphite. Same product I use on a trencher, which lives in the dirt.

 

[Chris11]

Thanks. The spray sounds promising. (And easy.)

I got more practice today on the latest load of gravel. At times I used the bucket while in reverse....seemed to spread it better. Perhaps I just don't have the hang of the box scraper yet. But I have many more loads to come...we'll see how it goes.