Adjusting the Boxblade

[yankeepac]

I finished my last of bush hogging for the season today and put my new box blade on for the first time. Seemed to go on pretty easily, but had to fiddle with the top link. The pin going through the top hole, was not long enough, to get the cotter pin through, but it fit in the lower hole. The tractor has both a top and bottom attachment point for the top link, why is this, and which one should I use? The brushcutter linked to the top one.
I am a pretty novice with this. and can't seem to figure how to adjust the three point hitch. anyone have any advise on this.
pictures would be great also.

 

[bcp]

Some videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxuEDGSGOZA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8OSkiTj_gE

Bruce

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The different pin locations allow the implement to be raised up different amounts. They change the arc and thus the implement gets raised differently in each of the pin locations. I typically use the top location on my tractors.

As far as the box blade, shorter gets the front blade to dig in. Extend and get both blades at the same level. This works well for taking high spots down and filling in the lower areas. Extend the top link more so that just the rear blade touches and this works well for smoothing.

You will get use to it after awhile. If you end up using the box blade very much, it is nice to have at least a hydraulic top link and if you have slopes and roads to work on, a hydraulic side link sure comes in handy.

But get use to operating the tractor with the box blade and then go from there.

 

[TripleR]

What MtnViewRanch said, a box scraper is pretty simple in concept, but does take practice. After many years of climbing on and off tractors adjusting the top link, I now use hydraulic top-links on my tractors and highly recommend them.

Seat time is going to be your best bet and just take it slow; good new is that you can fix anything you don't get right the first time.

 

[skeets]

Or the second or third or,,,,, well you get the idea,,, some of us are really slow learners,,

 

[tsafa]

Hi. Kabota Newbie here.

If you don't mind my asking... what kind of work can you do with the Boxblade? Leveling?

I have a front loader on my L3800 and I used that to do some re-grading and leveling work. Would the Boxblade be better? or is the Boxblade a cheaper option if you don't have a Front End Loader?

Also... how is this different from the simple blade (grader blade?) I see angled on the back vs the FEL.

I mostly backdrag with the FEL for leveling, but I am wondering what other options there are and if they are better.

Thanks for any info.

 

[Burt]

Hi. Kabota Newbie here.

If you don't mind my asking... what kind of work can you do with the Boxblade? Leveling?

I have a front loader on my L3800 and I used that to do some re-grading and leveling work. Would the Boxblade be better? or is the Boxblade a cheaper option if you don't have a Front End Loader?

Also... how is this different from the simple blade (grader blade?) I see angled on the back vs the FEL.

I mostly backdrag with the FEL for leveling, but I am wondering what other options there are and if they are better.

Thanks for any info.

Look at the you tube videos on box blades. Box blades have many purposes. Leveling is just one. You can tilt it to make a ditch (or clean one out). You can use the scarifiers to dig out and start an area for a garden plot...or clear an area for fire concerns. Some guys use them for snow. You can also smooth with a box blade. Notice the back outside edge of it as it is made for smoothing and the you tube videos demonstrate this nicely. Between floating your bucket and using the box blade, you should be capable of making things very smooth.

We had several "moguls" here on our 6.5 acres and the box blade smoothed them all out for us making it easy to mow now.

Another magnificent feature of a box blade's capability is to level out a humped driveway and smooth it out. I've done this for several neighbors and they are still level after a couple of years now.

For snow, I prefer the regular blade that angles off at 45 degrees either way. I use that and the loader if need be.

A box blade is perfect for leveling either dirt or gravel. It is a form of miniature grader if you will. The best way to learn about yours is to start in a pile of dirt or gravel, put your box blade into it and drag the dirt or gravel over a depression and watch it drop off the contents in the box right into the depression.

I was just like you until I asked my wife to walk alongside the box blade and tell me whether or not I should adjust the arm up or down to pick up or dump more gravel.

A loader alone will not do all the things a box blade can do and neither can a box blade do what a loader can do. They each have different capabilities and strengths.

Powder dry and hammer back,

Burt

 

[tsafa]

Look at the you tube videos on box blades. Box blades have many purposes. Leveling is just one. You can tilt it to make a ditch (or clean one out). You can use the scarifiers to dig out and start an area for a garden plot...or clear an area for fire concerns. Some guys use them for snow. You can also smooth with a box blade. Notice the back outside edge of it as it is made for smoothing and the you tube videos demonstrate this nicely. Between floating your bucket and using the box blade, you should be capable of making things very smooth.

We had several "moguls" here on our 6.5 acres and the box blade smoothed them all out for us making it easy to mow now.

Another magnificent feature of a box blade's capability is to level out a humped driveway and smooth it out. I've done this for several neighbors and they are still level after a couple of years now.

For snow, I prefer the regular blade that angles off at 45 degrees either way. I use that and the loader if need be.

A box blade is perfect for leveling either dirt or gravel. It is a form of miniature grader if you will. The best way to learn about yours is to start in a pile of dirt or gravel, put your box blade into it and drag the dirt or gravel over a depression and watch it drop off the contents in the box right into the depression.

I was just like you until I asked my wife to walk alongside the box blade and tell me whether or not I should adjust the arm up or down to pick up or dump more gravel.

A loader alone will not do all the things a box blade can do and neither can a box blade do what a loader can do. They each have different capabilities and strengths.

Powder dry and hammer back,

Burt

Thanks for info. About how much does a Box Blade cost of a L800?

 

[skeets]

Heres a good place to start, and the cost is,,,, well pretty much what you want/can spend,, though you will find a heaver box is better, remember that the bigger you go///WIDER the heavier it gets when your dragging it, and you will run out of traction long before you run out of power, I run a 48 incher but you may well be able to go with a 60 inch

http://www.everythingattachments.com/Box-Blade-Box-Scraper-s/85.htm

 

[tsafa]

Heres a good place to start, and the cost is,,,, well pretty much what you want/can spend,, though you will find a heaver box is better, remember that the bigger you go///WIDER the heavier it gets when your dragging it, and you will run out of traction long before you run out of power, I run a 48 incher but you may well be able to go with a 60 inch

http://www.everythingattachments.com/Box-Blade-Box-Scraper-s/85.htm

Thanks for the link. Will any 3 point attachment fit on my L3800? or should i be looking for a specific size for a "compact tractor"?

 

[Burt]

Thanks for the link. Will any 3 point attachment fit on my L3800? or should i be looking for a specific size for a "compact tractor"?

The L3800 is a category 1 three point, therefore, any cat 1 will fit.

I agree that the heavier the better. Ours is 60" and sometimes I use it for ballast when going downhill.

Cost is what you can find. If you buy new, expect to be in the 5 to 600 dollar category at least on this side of the country. I've seen them used for 200 or 300 dollars.

Be aware that most guys tend to hang on to these.

Burt

 

[armylifer]

I paid $788.40 for my Landpride BB1548 after taxes and shipping. I suggest shopping around because the cost can vary between dealers.

 

[cerlawson]

My adjusting the top link for any of the attachments is usually done on level surface. However, if the tool is to work a fixed depth below the level line, I set the tractor on appropriate thickness planks. For example, an angled rear blade used for snow plowing will not sit level on the ground sometimes and the only way I have found to make sure of that is the level ground adjustment first. Saves a lot of on-off the tractor stuff mentioned.

 

[BotaDriver]

I have a 72" unit from tractor supply. I bought it used with a 6' rake for $700 or so. Parts are readily available and I've used it for a good 50 hours or so and it's still in the same condition as when I bought it, sans the scarifer teeth. I have worn those out and need to replace them.

There are cheaper and lighter units out there, as well as heavier and more expensive. The TSC unit is about 500lbs, which is a little light, but I will be adding more weight to it when I get my welder.

It's much easier do grade / level with a box blade than the FEL, however my final step for leveling out dirt is to back drag the bucket in float.

 

[Paulwestski]

Thanks for the link. Will any 3 point attachment fit on my L3800? or should i be looking for a specific size for a "compact tractor"?

I use all 72" attachments on my L3800
Box blade, rake and grader blade
The L3800 will handle the 72" box blade just fine

 

[bamabota]

Thanks for the link. Will any 3 point attachment fit on my L3800? or should i be looking for a specific size for a "compact tractor"?

I have a L3200 and my box blade is a 60 in. or 5 ft. width. My box blade is a couple of inches wider than my tractor width.

 

[Kingcreek]

I use a 72" box blade behind my 3010 and it handles it just fine. My wheel width is 66". You want a rear blade wider than your wheel track.