I have a 2000 l2500DT without a loader that I’m wanting to add rear remotes for hydraulic toplink and tilt functions, etc. Is there a way to add them without using the power beyond port on a loader? If so is there a kit for it. I’ve looked everywhere and can’t for the life of me figure out how to do it
Adding rear remotes to 2000 l2500DT
- Thread starter Carter Cummings
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
You would add a block like this (long obsolete):
So a much easier way of doing it is to get a couple Swagelock fittings, or have fitting welded to this line and tap into the hydraulics.
So a much easier way of doing it is to get a couple Swagelock fittings, or have fitting welded to this line and tap into the hydraulics.
Gotcha. Thanks a lot. So would I guess I would need to tap in both the supply and return lines? A swagelock T going to both line 110 and 020?
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
No you don’t Tee into any line. And you could probably get that block machined instead of the swagelock fittings. Either way will work.
You want to cut the pump output line in two at one place. Then the pump side gets an elbow and goes to the remote valve power in port. That valve should have a power beyond sleeve installed. A hose from the PB sleeve then goes back to where you cut the line and an elbow is attached to the hose and the cut line.
See this thread for a DIFFERENT model block to tap into the hydraulic line. If you get a block machined you will need to match the bolt mount location and the face machining. The difference is that the fluid flow just passes through the existing block (like a strange piece of pipe) while the new block diverts the flow out of the block for a hose connection, then back into the other side of the block. Look at post #1 for the diagrams. I would avoid NPT ports on the block if I were getting one machined.
www.orangetractortalks.com
You want to cut the pump output line in two at one place. Then the pump side gets an elbow and goes to the remote valve power in port. That valve should have a power beyond sleeve installed. A hose from the PB sleeve then goes back to where you cut the line and an elbow is attached to the hose and the cut line.
See this thread for a DIFFERENT model block to tap into the hydraulic line. If you get a block machined you will need to match the bolt mount location and the face machining. The difference is that the fluid flow just passes through the existing block (like a strange piece of pipe) while the new block diverts the flow out of the block for a hose connection, then back into the other side of the block. Look at post #1 for the diagrams. I would avoid NPT ports on the block if I were getting one machined.
B7100 Hydraulic block diverter (70060-00360 or 70070-00385)
Back in stock. CDN$40 plus actual shipping These are obsolete and no longer available. I have recently been contacted by a member asking if I will make him one of these after reading how I made mine. I know this comes up from time to time and would like to gauge the interest others might have...
www.orangetractortalks.com
You are going to need metric compression fittings (DIN) if cutting the lines.
Or yoo can order the OEM hydraulic outlet block from Kubota - a mere $323.
Dan
Or yoo can order the OEM hydraulic outlet block from Kubota - a mere $323.
Dan
Last edited:
No you don’t Tee into any line. And you could probably get that block machined instead of the swagelock fittings. Either way will work.
You want to cut the pump output line in two at one place. Then the pump side gets an elbow and goes to the remote valve power in port. That valve should have a power beyond sleeve installed. A hose from the PB sleeve then goes back to where you cut the line and an elbow is attached to the hose and the cut line.
See this thread for a DIFFERENT model block to tap into the hydraulic line. If you get a block machined you will need to match the bolt mount location and the face machining. The difference is that the fluid flow just passes through the existing block (like a strange piece of pipe) while the new block diverts the flow out of the block for a hose connection, then back into the other side of the block. Look at post #1 for the diagrams. I would avoid NPT ports on the block if I were getting one machined.
B7100 Hydraulic block diverter (70060-00360 or 70070-00385)
Back in stock. CDN$40 plus actual shipping These are obsolete and no longer available. I have recently been contacted by a member asking if I will make him one of these after reading how I made mine. I know this comes up from time to time and would like to gauge the interest others might have...
ahh. Thanks! It’s making sense now so would the link that Dan posted for the oem Kubota block work with my l2500dt without modifications?No you don’t Tee into any line. And you could probably get that block machined instead of the swagelock fittings. Either way will work.
You want to cut the pump output line in two at one place. Then the pump side gets an elbow and goes to the remote valve power in port. That valve should have a power beyond sleeve installed. A hose from the PB sleeve then goes back to where you cut the line and an elbow is attached to the hose and the cut line.
See this thread for a DIFFERENT model block to tap into the hydraulic line. If you get a block machined you will need to match the bolt mount location and the face machining. The difference is that the fluid flow just passes through the existing block (like a strange piece of pipe) while the new block diverts the flow out of the block for a hose connection, then back into the other side of the block. Look at post #1 for the diagrams. I would avoid NPT ports on the block if I were getting one machined.
B7100 Hydraulic block diverter (70060-00360 or 70070-00385)
Back in stock. CDN$40 plus actual shipping These are obsolete and no longer available. I have recently been contacted by a member asking if I will make him one of these after reading how I made mine. I know this comes up from time to time and would like to gauge the interest others might have...
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I am pretty sure Dan got the correct part number but I don’t KNOW that it is the correct part number.
You can look at it yourself or ask the dealer to look it up.
I assume that Dan looked at Messicks at your tractor model. Then look at the attachments section and locate the loader that fits your tractor and look through the hydraulics sections until you locate that area of the tractor.
When I did that at Messicks I got to the same part number. BUT when I did it at Kubota illustrated parts list I did get to a DIFFERENT part number = 75541-68110 instead of the 75546-68110 number that Messicks showed. So I would get the dealer or Messicks to find the part number so you can return it (Messicks won’t pay the return shipping as far as I know).
You can look at it yourself or ask the dealer to look it up.
I assume that Dan looked at Messicks at your tractor model. Then look at the attachments section and locate the loader that fits your tractor and look through the hydraulics sections until you locate that area of the tractor.
When I did that at Messicks I got to the same part number. BUT when I did it at Kubota illustrated parts list I did get to a DIFFERENT part number = 75541-68110 instead of the 75546-68110 number that Messicks showed. So I would get the dealer or Messicks to find the part number so you can return it (Messicks won’t pay the return shipping as far as I know).