Add turbo
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coachgeo
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L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
old threads like this your better off to email them if they left an email address. Try PMing them as well
Oil Pan has not been on the site since July 2018
Oil Pan has not been on the site since July 2018
You can't overboost a diesel. Well you can but it ain't like a gas burner where it's imperative to supply enough fuel to support x amount of air (approx 12 parts air to 1 part fuel under load). Until the EGT goes sky high, you can put as much air as you want into a diesel and it won't make a bit more power until you start putting fuel into it; then the power really increases.
RHB31 is probably the best option. It's tiny. But so is the little engine. Diesels operate differently in respect to the turbo. It will make presssure regardless of whether it's under a load or not, just the air flowing through the engine can be enough to make a few psi. On my little car, I can cut the ignition at the top of the hill (5 speed manual) at about 2500 RPM, then floor it with the engine just freewheeling, and it makes 5.5 psi. That's a gas engine. Diesels use smaller turbo's than comparable gas engines because of the RPM difference (diesel being about 1/2 the engine speed as a gas engine on average).
I've messed with this stuff for eons, don't know everything and never will...blown PLENTY of gas engines up, destroyed a few, salvaged a few, but never have hurt a diesel and they were all naturally aspirated in their original form, only change was adding the turbo, a pyrometer, and maybe an intercooler. A good example is my litlte Massey. The 1140 tractor was a 1.5L Iseki engine, made 30hp. The 1145 is the same exact tractor, same exact engine but turbocharged, makes 35 hp at the same RPM, quite a bit more torque down low (from the turbo). As I recall the ONLY difference between them is the manifold (obviously) and the pump is timed 0.5 degree differently, which amounts to basically nothing more than keeping EGT down. It does not have a wastegate. I've run it under a load and it'll make 15 psi in cool air, normal air 8-12. The old powerstroke diesels also didn't have a wastegate, they just made boost...the more air into the engine, the more out, so boost pressures would keep climbing until there wasn't enough fuel to keep boost from climbing. I think about 22 psi in stock form on a good day, 18-20 is the norm. Mine is an 03 that IS wastegated (more low end but less top end) and it's done at 24 psi, CEL at 25 for more than 3 or 4 seconds. Can it make more? Probably but that turbo is not made for it, most upgrade when they're getting into big numbers.
The RHB31 max shaft speed is 254,000 RPM....it's used on a variety of equipment. I have one out in the shop, tried it on a D722, too big, BARELY made 2 psi under a load, zero with no load. D722s' DID come with a turbo on some equipment but I haven't found any of them yet, turbo's or engines. I just want one to say I have one, don't need the horsepower or torque, it runs fine without it and that's probably why I ain't put a lot of time into finding a turbo and/or manifold.
RHB31 is probably the best option. It's tiny. But so is the little engine. Diesels operate differently in respect to the turbo. It will make presssure regardless of whether it's under a load or not, just the air flowing through the engine can be enough to make a few psi. On my little car, I can cut the ignition at the top of the hill (5 speed manual) at about 2500 RPM, then floor it with the engine just freewheeling, and it makes 5.5 psi. That's a gas engine. Diesels use smaller turbo's than comparable gas engines because of the RPM difference (diesel being about 1/2 the engine speed as a gas engine on average).
I've messed with this stuff for eons, don't know everything and never will...blown PLENTY of gas engines up, destroyed a few, salvaged a few, but never have hurt a diesel and they were all naturally aspirated in their original form, only change was adding the turbo, a pyrometer, and maybe an intercooler. A good example is my litlte Massey. The 1140 tractor was a 1.5L Iseki engine, made 30hp. The 1145 is the same exact tractor, same exact engine but turbocharged, makes 35 hp at the same RPM, quite a bit more torque down low (from the turbo). As I recall the ONLY difference between them is the manifold (obviously) and the pump is timed 0.5 degree differently, which amounts to basically nothing more than keeping EGT down. It does not have a wastegate. I've run it under a load and it'll make 15 psi in cool air, normal air 8-12. The old powerstroke diesels also didn't have a wastegate, they just made boost...the more air into the engine, the more out, so boost pressures would keep climbing until there wasn't enough fuel to keep boost from climbing. I think about 22 psi in stock form on a good day, 18-20 is the norm. Mine is an 03 that IS wastegated (more low end but less top end) and it's done at 24 psi, CEL at 25 for more than 3 or 4 seconds. Can it make more? Probably but that turbo is not made for it, most upgrade when they're getting into big numbers.
The RHB31 max shaft speed is 254,000 RPM....it's used on a variety of equipment. I have one out in the shop, tried it on a D722, too big, BARELY made 2 psi under a load, zero with no load. D722s' DID come with a turbo on some equipment but I haven't found any of them yet, turbo's or engines. I just want one to say I have one, don't need the horsepower or torque, it runs fine without it and that's probably why I ain't put a lot of time into finding a turbo and/or manifold.
+1 but then every diesel I own already is equipped with a hairdryer (turbo). My 97 7.3 Banks equipped Powerstroke makes 35 psi on a hard pull and yes, I have a boost gauge on it.I just love this kind of talk,,,, I aint got a clue what he was talking about but it read nice
Hello everyone,
I'm a little late to the party. I read the entire thread and found this forum looking up information on my B5100E I recently acquired. I too have an RHB31 from a Yanmar marine engine.
I'm a little concerned that this turbo is meant for something much larger than the 500cc z500 motor that is in my tractor. I'm going to try it anyway. I noticed the compressor inlet/outlet on the turbo are smaller in diameter than the air inlet on the tractor motor. This makes me feel like the turbo is "too small" and will choke the tractor's motor on the compressor side. I could be wrong because I do not have a lot of experience with diesels. I have a LOT of gas turbo experience having owned early Mitsubishi cars.
My friend has 2 G4200 lawn mowers that we've already put an RHB31 on, although the compressor inlet on his was different. It had a 2-bolt flange, and mine has a traditional barbed coupler fitting on the inlet. I **think he may have an e-bay copy as they're pretty common, and I **think mine might be a legit IHI unit because it came OEM on the Yanmar marine diesel motor. I looked up the specs for the motor it came off of and it's a 1.6L 4cyl..... which makes no sense given the size of this compressor housing. Again, I have very little experience with diesels.
I will post a build thread with pictures as I work through it. Maybe I'll make some youtube videos. Thank you for reading and I hope to show you guys some cool outside of the box stuff.
I'm a little late to the party. I read the entire thread and found this forum looking up information on my B5100E I recently acquired. I too have an RHB31 from a Yanmar marine engine.
I'm a little concerned that this turbo is meant for something much larger than the 500cc z500 motor that is in my tractor. I'm going to try it anyway. I noticed the compressor inlet/outlet on the turbo are smaller in diameter than the air inlet on the tractor motor. This makes me feel like the turbo is "too small" and will choke the tractor's motor on the compressor side. I could be wrong because I do not have a lot of experience with diesels. I have a LOT of gas turbo experience having owned early Mitsubishi cars.
My friend has 2 G4200 lawn mowers that we've already put an RHB31 on, although the compressor inlet on his was different. It had a 2-bolt flange, and mine has a traditional barbed coupler fitting on the inlet. I **think he may have an e-bay copy as they're pretty common, and I **think mine might be a legit IHI unit because it came OEM on the Yanmar marine diesel motor. I looked up the specs for the motor it came off of and it's a 1.6L 4cyl..... which makes no sense given the size of this compressor housing. Again, I have very little experience with diesels.
I will post a build thread with pictures as I work through it. Maybe I'll make some youtube videos. Thank you for reading and I hope to show you guys some cool outside of the box stuff.
Well after leaving it on the shelf for a year I dusted it off and started working it again, along with lots of other tractor work.
The stainless steel manifold to turbine inlet pipe is all done, the pressure side of the oil system is mostly put together, the turbine discharge pipe or stack is mostly welded and mocked up just need to weld it up the rest of the way and dent it with a hammer in a couple places so bolts can thread into their holes. Hopefully I can fire it up, test the oil flow and hear it run with the turbo on it this weekend. The intake still has a long ways to go, I may run hot boost into the engine, I will hunt around for an intercooler and see what I can find.
Need to find a 0 to 15 or 20psi gauge so I can see what PSI the waste gate opens up using shop air.
I put a T76 that was originally used on a Detroit 60 series 11.1L on my little old 6.5L chevy diesel, it works pretty good. Perfect for highway driving and towing. Diesels tolerate over sized turbos a lot better than gassers.
The intake manifold on a typical Kubota is perfect for hooking up a turbo at least all the different ones I have worked on.
The stainless steel manifold to turbine inlet pipe is all done, the pressure side of the oil system is mostly put together, the turbine discharge pipe or stack is mostly welded and mocked up just need to weld it up the rest of the way and dent it with a hammer in a couple places so bolts can thread into their holes. Hopefully I can fire it up, test the oil flow and hear it run with the turbo on it this weekend. The intake still has a long ways to go, I may run hot boost into the engine, I will hunt around for an intercooler and see what I can find.
Need to find a 0 to 15 or 20psi gauge so I can see what PSI the waste gate opens up using shop air.
I put a T76 that was originally used on a Detroit 60 series 11.1L on my little old 6.5L chevy diesel, it works pretty good. Perfect for highway driving and towing. Diesels tolerate over sized turbos a lot better than gassers.
The intake manifold on a typical Kubota is perfect for hooking up a turbo at least all the different ones I have worked on.
I ordered an aftermarket Toyota mr2 intercooler, it was one I could think of that would fit. Needed something that had inlet and outlets opposing each other since the exhaust and intakes are on different sides of the engine.
Turbo sitting on 1.5 inch 90degree 304 stainless adapter pipe. Tig welded with 316 filler with back purge.
Pipes are made from 0.062 inch process or "dairy" pipe.
Turbo sitting on 1.5 inch 90degree 304 stainless adapter pipe. Tig welded with 316 filler with back purge.
Pipes are made from 0.062 inch process or "dairy" pipe.
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One great thing about a diesel with a hairdryer is you don't need a muffler at all, the turbo breaks up the sound waves from the combustion process so none needed.
My 7.3 has a straight pipe, both my Kubota's have mufflers that I'm, waiting to rust up so I can straight pipe them. Waiting because I'm cheap.
Besides, a straight piped turbo diesel makes sweet music.
Straight piped turbo gassers don't.
My 7.3 has a straight pipe, both my Kubota's have mufflers that I'm, waiting to rust up so I can straight pipe them. Waiting because I'm cheap.
Besides, a straight piped turbo diesel makes sweet music.
Straight piped turbo gassers don't.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Don't JB Weld fix those holes?I'm waiting for the boom... or pictures of a rod out the block!
"Needed something that had inlet and outlets opposing each other since the exhaust and intakes are on different sides of the engine."
Hope I am not totally misunderstanding your statement but, you do know if you loosen the bolts clamping the compressor housing in place you can rotate the housing 360 deg. On some turbos some leeway with the hot side also.
Hope I am not totally misunderstanding your statement but, you do know if you loosen the bolts clamping the compressor housing in place you can rotate the housing 360 deg. On some turbos some leeway with the hot side also.
I have 3 positions separated by 90 degrees to chose from on the compressor unless I delete the waste gate and weld it shut, which I may.
I would like to test drive it before making such a drastic change.
Didn't turn up the fuel so there is no danger to the engine aside from overheating.
I would like to test drive it before making such a drastic change.
Didn't turn up the fuel so there is no danger to the engine aside from overheating.
The turbo is on the same side as the oil pressure switch. Just have to run an oil pressure line to the line side of the turbo and will likely put the return into the valve cover.
Not that difficult. It's just plumbing.
Most of the oil pressure side plumbing is already done.
I'm going to relocate the oil pressure switch up in the dash where I'm adding a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
Not that difficult. It's just plumbing.
Most of the oil pressure side plumbing is already done.
I'm going to relocate the oil pressure switch up in the dash where I'm adding a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
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Ok, I am not as familiar with the little turbos so remember only the useful stuff from my comments!
I would certainly prefer a turbo sized to use a waste gate. Otherwise the turbo if to large will not spin up at lower rpms. Or a small turbo without a wastegate will cause to much back pressure and cause engine overheat and possible turbo overspeed. I would put a pressure gauge before the turbine and make sure the exhaust never exceeds the compressure pressure. This will ensure the cylinder will scavenge and get fresh cooler air.
Hope I am not stating the obvious to you, not sure where you are turbo knowledge wise. Let me know would love to help.
I would certainly prefer a turbo sized to use a waste gate. Otherwise the turbo if to large will not spin up at lower rpms. Or a small turbo without a wastegate will cause to much back pressure and cause engine overheat and possible turbo overspeed. I would put a pressure gauge before the turbine and make sure the exhaust never exceeds the compressure pressure. This will ensure the cylinder will scavenge and get fresh cooler air.
Hope I am not stating the obvious to you, not sure where you are turbo knowledge wise. Let me know would love to help.
OP4, the drain must be below the turbo, at crankcase pressure, and much larger than the pressure feed.
The oil exiting the turbo looks like whipped Jello and must "fall" to the oil pan above the oil level. Too much entrained air to be pressurized.
Even with the turbo above the valve cover I would not drain here as it may plug the head oil returns.
The oil exiting the turbo looks like whipped Jello and must "fall" to the oil pan above the oil level. Too much entrained air to be pressurized.
Even with the turbo above the valve cover I would not drain here as it may plug the head oil returns.