On my m5 111 the ac blower fan is not blowing hard enough. I can switch off the fan speed and then back on and fan will blow hard for awhile but eventually will go back to a minimal air speed.
ac fan
- Thread starter philgentry
- Start date
It seems like the evaporator is freezing up. Maybe time for a refrigerant recharge. Also check for any dust or debris clogging the evap.
you're going to have to isolate what's actually happening BEFORE you can fix anything
just assuming it needs recharge may get you into trouble-so don't go messing with putting refrigerant into the system quite yet....
Is the fan actually losing speed? Can you hear the fan losing speed?
there are several possibilities, one being that the evaporator is freezing over. You'll have to go through the system. Possibly the evaporator might have junk inside the box that is being pulled up over the evap core?
a maintenance point is to remove the seat and base, then remove the top of the a/c box and clean the heater core and evaporator core. They get dirty. While you're in there look and see if the evap core has a thermister on it. I think it does. It'll be a wire with a probe on the end that is stuck down into the fins of the condenser. if you have one, it is supposed to cut the compressor off when the evap temp drops below roughly 34 degrees F, keeps the evap core from freezing over. If the thermister is bad, or if it's just pulled out, it won't cut the compressor off and obviously it'll just freeze up. Then your fan keeps running at normal speed but the amount of air flow through the vents drops off considerably. It can also be kinda hard on the compressor so you'll want to address this possibility as soon as possible.
just assuming it needs recharge may get you into trouble-so don't go messing with putting refrigerant into the system quite yet....
Is the fan actually losing speed? Can you hear the fan losing speed?
there are several possibilities, one being that the evaporator is freezing over. You'll have to go through the system. Possibly the evaporator might have junk inside the box that is being pulled up over the evap core?
a maintenance point is to remove the seat and base, then remove the top of the a/c box and clean the heater core and evaporator core. They get dirty. While you're in there look and see if the evap core has a thermister on it. I think it does. It'll be a wire with a probe on the end that is stuck down into the fins of the condenser. if you have one, it is supposed to cut the compressor off when the evap temp drops below roughly 34 degrees F, keeps the evap core from freezing over. If the thermister is bad, or if it's just pulled out, it won't cut the compressor off and obviously it'll just freeze up. Then your fan keeps running at normal speed but the amount of air flow through the vents drops off considerably. It can also be kinda hard on the compressor so you'll want to address this possibility as soon as possible.
Thanks, i will work on it tomorrow and let you know. Today the air went completely off and I had to turn fan switch off and on several times to get air blowing again. Could it be the blower or capacitor?
There are no capacitors on a 12-volt motor. Take it apart, and clean the coils before you do anything else. I would use Simple Green and a strong stream of water to clean the coils. Don't use a pressure washer for fear of damaging the coils themselves. A clogged coil will cause high head pressures in the system and then the pressure switch in the compressor will shut down the system to protect it from damage. Whether it be your home air conditioning coils or your tractor air conditioning coils, both need to be serviced and cleaned yearly. There is a commercial cleaner that is safe to use on the coils, but the Simple Green will give you the same results at less expense. No matter what the outcome, don't add refrigerant to the system unless it is properly diagnosed as needing a charge. The only accurate way to add refrigerant to a system is to first remove the charge, weigh what was removed, and then reinstall the refrigerant that was removed and add new refrigerant to bring the level of refrigerant that is called for in the service manual. This needs to be done with the proper equipment by qualified personnel that has been trained to service mobile air conditing units and they hold the proper federal license to purchase the refrigerants. You don't need to take it back to the dealer for service since there are many in the trade that will travel to where you are located and have the proper service equipment in their service trucks.
well said.
unfortunately there are quite a few dealers who also don't have service trucks, and also don't have 609 certified techs. I carry the cert, but I'm not in the kubota business anymore. That service truck with tools is pretty expensive. We looked into it, and we were looking at somewhere north of a hundred grand. Have to work on a lot of tractors to offset that. Of course, if that dealer did bigger equipment and construction equipment, it might pay off. But they didn't do much of anything bigger than 100hp, wouldn't fit in the shop for one. And they JUST bought a new building and moved the dealer over there, yeah it was bigger but it wasn't bigger in the right ways to really take off. Thus they're mostly lawn & garden and construction which is where they will have to stay until they move to a larger shop...knowing them, won't happen anytime soon if ever.
I suggested to our Kubota rep that the service dept should have at least one 609 cert tech, and that the tech should fully understand MVAC systems, which means specific training. At one point Kubota did some classes on A/C and they were extremely well done, dumbed down so idiots like me could understand it. The head of that particular class left Kubota and I think he went to Bad Boy (??) but nonetheless, I have been harping on them to get something like this ready for the techs. It is a service that should not have to be farmed out; although a lot of them do. They do it where I'm at now, but for different reasons.
I learned on R-12, and that is all that I will ever work on. I won't even consider doing my wife's PT Loser that has a bad hose on it. I just don't want to fight with front-wheel drive. If it is too warm out, I told her to put the top down. It is 17 years old with 35,000 miles on it. Never gets driven in the winter, and rarely gets driven in the summer. Just doesn't have working air conditioning.