A little help with my "new" B7100DT

[Apogee]

Patience grasshopper!!!!



Moral boosting = check prices just about anywhere for a diesel tractor that runs that includes a loader. You will find beat ones starting at about $3K and them running $5K - $6K for nice one. You will see that even the units that Ray has, while inexpensive, are still nowhere close to what you paid and you can easily get parts for yours. Not so with the import units that he has...

Here is a little more of a moral boost:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/grd/3576303049.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/grq/3589313761.html

You might give Raffi a call in Portland to see if he happens to have the cylinder and maybe a bucket. The other option would be West Kentucky Tractor. Yes, you'd have to pay freight, but it might not be too bad. Certainly worth a call.

Here's Raffi's current Craigslist ad (I have no affiliation with him) - http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/grd/3591843102.html

(Parting out several Kubota's, some Iseki, Mitsubishi, Hinomoto, Yanmar, Ford/Shibuara, Rhino, diesel tractors. Also have new and used implements and tractor tires for sale. I DO NOT have any gas RIDING lawn MOWERS OR PARTS. Kubota L3750DT now available for parts. Call 503-638-1939 or 503-577-3463 if interested in any diesel tractor parts. Thanks -Raffi)

Last option would be Ray at Coldwater tractor in Hoquiam (no affiliation either) - http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/grd/3564444407.html

(23hp tractor with pto and 3pt $2399 add $1500 for new loader 360 532 7131 or 360 533 2160 dexter cow hogs steel )

If it were me, I'd just have new metal welded the full width on the underside of the bucket and wrapped about half way up the back. have the welder put a couple of beads on the inside of the bucket to close up the crack and bond the existing metal to the new repair. It would work just fine and likely outlast you. The other option would be to just have the bottom cut out and replaced although I think it would take more time so would cost more $$$.

Pump leak hopefully won't be any big deal. I'm wondering if you accidentally loosened (or cracked) one of the injector lines while changing the glow plugs.

You got a good deal. Especially in light of the fact that the compression is good enough that it will start and run fine now that the glow plugs are fixed. She wasn't a new tractor, and was neglected, so you should figure on having to work out the gremlins. You've already made some big strides and you will know exactly what you've got when you're done.

Hang in there, you'll be on top of it sooner than you think!

Steve

 

[lsmurphy]

adapt it-
http://prescott.craigslist.org/grq/3589767442.html

 

[James Williams]

I will leave it to more experienced people to help you solve your problems, as I am not that good a mechanic myself.

I can give a little moral support though, as I have a tractor that is pretty much a twin of yours. It is a 1979 B7100DT with a B219 fel that was pretty neglected by previous owners.

Once you have it in good enough condition to use, you will find that not only is it a lot of fun to use, but that it is capable of doing things that you would not believe a tractor of that size could do. I have used the loader on mine to move chunks of tree trunks that would barely fit in and must have weighed a couple of hundred pounds.

A couple of things about the bucket. Mine has to sit outside on my lawn and I found that with the loader all the way down, the bottom was sitting on the ground against that moisture. I started using the loader to raise the front wheels and put about three short pieces of treated 2x6 under each front tire. This will keep the bucket and front tires from sitting on the dirt when it is not being used. Second, I have the same size bucket as you do and find that it is very easy to run out of traction using the loader.

Good luck.

James

 

[Lil Foot]

I would also try to repair the bucket or have it repaired. I have the same bucket, & although it is narrower than some, it also holds more volume than similar sized buckets. (it's deeper) Mine was a little bent, not as bad as yours or Big Kahuna's, but mine had the top edge bent down from the previous owner getting carried away when he mounted the forks. The forks mount by hooking onto the cutting edge & then wrapping a couple of chains around the back of the bucket, and then tightening the chains with load binders. After straightening the bucket, I welded on a 1/4" X 2" piece of angle, keeps the bucket edge stiff & lets me feed a piece of chain with a removable grab hook underneath it for rigging lifts. Also added pics of a grab hook/trailer hitch ball tool I made, handy as can be.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Nice idea Lil Foot

Big Kahuna

 

[Lil Foot]

Thanks!
Umm, which part?

 

[Big Kahuna]

The bucket.

Big Kahuna

 

[seanbarr]

Thanks guys, the "blah's" got scurried away after I simply walked away and let my thought collect to myself. It dawned on me that there were three problems that was on my mind regarding to the FEL which could be solved with one fell swoop! (Or so I think)

Problem #1 - Bucket's in bad shape and is 39" wide
Problem #2 - The original cylinders aren't standard (gah!)
Problem #3 - The bucket as it sits doesn't roll up enough to hold material at ground level.

My thinking on the solution. When I get a new bucket with loose brackets (48" wide if they won't make a 46") combined with new 12" stroke cylinders, I'd set the bucket at the desired curl-up position at ground level and set the brackets on the bucket and modify the base end brackets to accommodate the longer cylinders! Of course, I'd have to verify that the bucket tip will be adequate at 6 ft high. I'm not looking to load them in dump trucks, just to move dirt & snow around.

The cylinders for the arms are 17" strokes and I'm wondering if anyone has shortened it to 16" strokes because what's available are 16's and 18's, no 17's (Only if the cost of overhauling the cylinders exceed new ones)

What do you think fellas?

I haven't tackled the slow fuel leaks but I was motivated when I was able to start the tractor on the first try with the new glow plugs! The golden trick was to return the key back to glow after starting it to help it along. Just thought it's worth mentioning here again.

 

[seanbarr]

Apogee (Steve) - The prices did the trick! I'm certain that it's just a matter of checking the fuel system. I didn't come close to the pump itself while changing the glow plugs. I DID call Coldwater about the bucket and they're willing to do a bucket with loose brackets. $500, not including shipping,...

ismurphy - intriguing, but distance & bucket too narrow negates it. Appreciate it!

James - Thanks for the lift. I can see great potential and I'm certain it remains to be experienced myself after comments like yours. Great suggestion about keeping the bucket off the ground! While I would have kept the bucket if it was in good shape, the opportunity just presents itself to get the width I'd like. I'm not going to be digging much, just be able to scoop up stuff.

Lil Foot - I just don't think it's possible, the sucker's all banged up pretty nasty. With the new bucket, I definitely will tap into your & others advice on beefing it up and adding some hooks to it. I like your hook & ball mount!

 

[Apogee]

Sean,

Glad the motivation helped!

I know you didn't get close to the pump changing glow plugs but I do think you would have had to move the front injector line. I'm wondering if perhaps either the line got bent and cracked or maybe it's a little loose at the pump end... Hoping it's something simple like that...

Regarding the bigger bucket, just want to give you something to think about. Not trying to through a damper on your idea.

Kubota sized the original bucket to match what the tractor is capable of doing. While the bigger bucket is definitely appealing, remember that the tractor has to have enough power and frame strength to dig with it. Also, the steering box needs to be stronger, and the loader parts also need to be stronger. If memory serves, the 219 loader is designed to lift 400 lbs max I think.

If you're only going to be lifting snow, the bigger bucket will be fine. However, I'm not sure how it will do when digging, because it might be too much for the size of the tractor.

I'm sure others with far more experience than I can chime in here.

Just my $.02,

Steve

 

[seanbarr]

A tiny little progress...

Ok, it's more than that! I dove in and started having fun! For the most part...

Did the following:

- Oil change (blaaaack!)
- Changed the 4 seals on the 3-point. It was missing the backer ring, which explains the slow drop. It should be golden now.
- Radiator drain. I almost fainted when it wouldn't drain, thinking it was dry. Stuck a pick in the drain hole and volia! The fluid was slightly discolored from age. No other stuff, which is a good sign!
- Started on the steering box overhaul. I posted separately as it was the other side of the "fun" meter. http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=60326#post60326
- Replaced the fuel lines & clamps
- Replaced the battery cables with one size bigger cables. The old ones was just that, old.
- Replaced the "emission exhaust" tube, it was cracked.
- Took off the PTO shroud in preparation for the ROPS. It's ordered and on the way. Sadly, this is gonna be a pain if I can't find replacements for these. The worst part, the cover where the top bracket bolts to has one destroyed hole and another that's about the same. Had a hard time removing the one bolt. Felt I'm about to snap the bolt head off but it came out with some residual metal from the cover in the grooves. I'm gonna see if someone can machine a new set of holes.

Also,... last Friday, I took my old bucket into town to have a fabricator look at it and he's gonna get me a quote to build a new bucket with better steel and just the way I'd like it. Got him as a referral from the local implement & tractor dealer just outside of town during my search for a bucket. My Kubota dealer says to try another tractor parts boneyard so I fired off an email for a 48" bucket as well as parts for the PTO pieces.

I also sent off a parts list that included the seal rebuild kit for the cylinders. Gonna try that out, always something new for me to learn.

How come no one warned me that this hobby is addictive? My wife doesn't understand. Everytime she starts to whine, I remind her that a new Kubota that I want is around $16-$18K and I'm saving up to buy her a new SUV!

 

[Apogee]

Good progress! Hats off to you for jumping and getting on top of the maintenance issues.

Get a can of either PB Blaster or Kroil to help with the rusted bolts and use lots of it. Well worth the $$$ imho.

Steve

 

[Russell King]

Don't get too worried about the PTO shield - you may get a new one with the ROPS. I did on my L185 but the shield is seperate from the brackets for the upper link. These were also in 2 parts on mine where yours is all together.

I totally agree to get the threaded holes soaking in a rust solvent. You may also want to buy some low strength bolts to chase the threads with before installing the high strength bolts that come with the ROPS.

 

[seanbarr]

Interesting Russel, I never thought about that. I wanted to start by having the correct, unmodified parts around the PTO area where the ROPS will mount to. I located one for $35 but not sure of the condition. I guess I'll hold off on getting the shield until I see the ROPS which is on it's way to the local Kubota dealer. They will let me put it on myself since I've explained my predicament with the foreign welded bracket on the back.

As mentioned earlier, I did manage remove the one remaining bolt on the top. The other was just unrecognizable, can't tell if there's pieces in there or just crud. Regardless, I gotta have it fixed because the center arm draws the strength from there and I wouldn't think about using the ROPS to assist.

I ordered a bunch of parts from Messick's, mostly consumables so I can put new life in my tractor and decided to use 90 oil in my steering box as originally called for. Haven't forgotten the weep hole and the top rubber bushing. Heck, I got a few extra shims because you never know. I even grabbed a few decals or two, handle covers (only had two, needed four), and two cans of blue paint!

I picked up a cheap, Chinese made 3.5 gallon parts washing station and some degreasing wash fluid. Worked pretty well & I'm happy with it. I was able to remove all of the grease from the steering box & parts so I can inspect & order parts. The steering shaft & ball thingamabob was disassembled but all looks good!

Hope Messick's is as fast as you guys say... (drumming fingers)

 

[Baru]

Sean, keep us posted on your progress of fixing up your B7100. I just picked up the same tractor w/ a B219 FEL, Backhoe attachment, tiller, and a Woods mower. Yours seems to be in a little better shape than mine though. I am just starting to get into fixing mine (a lot of hydraulic leaks) and trouble shooting the glow plugs right now. There are a lot of quality metal fab shops in Spokane that should be able to modify your bucket or build you a new one for a fair price.

 

[seanbarr]

Baru,

Oh you'll hear from me! The project's on a little hold while I wait for parts. Most of them are coming in on Thursday. (I got post-it notes of all the parts I ordered on my calendar!) and it's going to be my "Christmas day"! A few days ago, I ordered a re-threading kit called "Timeset" to give all 10 bolt holes for the 3-point lift & ROPS attachments a good, solid mounting point. Unfortunately, it won't come in until next week.

I got a new "used" bucket from a Massey-Ferguson dealer for 50 bucks. The top was dented down but other than that, it's in incredible shape! I got a local fabricator (different guy, the first never got back to me) lined up to do the bracket re positioning and straighten out the dent. The old bucket will be converted to a grapple bucket which will be on another "Look what I did" post.

Please do post your issues and I, along with other B7100 owners, will be happy to jump to your aid. The majority of the time I'm doing now is just really going over everything, changing all fluids, seals, replacing parts, etc. A large, LARGE credit goes to these guys who have helped me either directly in these posts or indirectly by reading other posts elsewhere. I've yet to tackle the hydraulic cylinders (got the seal kits for each, Kubota part # 70050-00123) as one DOES leak a bit so I decided to overhaul all of them & clean 'em up good.

In the meantime, a teaser on the horizon. A unique way to add an alternator to my B7100!

 

[seanbarr]

What the hell, (pardon me)

You live in Spangle? I think we 'ought to meet & see our tractors!

 

[Baru]

I agree!! We and the tractors should meet. I also am going to be ordering the same cylinder seal rebuild kit (Kubota part # 70050-00123). My bucket tilt leaks down almost as fast as I can tilt it back.

 

[seanbarr]

Progress! Well, a SOB progress.

Got the ROPS put together & bolted on! Earlier, I had 3 bad holes for the center link bracket. It was just practically stripped out, hence the previous owner's idiotic decision to just weld the PTO cover & center link bracket with a scrap metal all together. In case you missed it earlier, the FUGLY piece:

With a little research, ordered & receive a Timesert tool set with longer threaded inserts to repair all four of the damaged threads for the center link bracket. I must say, I'm very impressed with it! I think it's a better alternate than the helicoil. http://www.timesert.com

Got a replacement center link bracket & PTO cover to complete the ROPS installation. It didn't go on very easily as the holes on the ROPS didn't line up with the center link bracket. Fortunately I have a reamer tool to notch out the hole.

With the ROPS & new bracket & shield installed, I tried to put the seat back on and it wouldn't fit. I could have moved the seat forward but I'm 6'2". Gonna do some fabrication soon to relocate the seats higher. (sigh)

Notice the sides touching the ROPS.

The front...

And the steering box rebuild is complete! Not yet mounted as I was tied up with other aspects of the overhaul, namely the ROPS.

The steering box is presently empty, I'm debating whether I should re-fill it with grease or with gear oil...

And lastly, almost completed an alternator upgrade! A separate post was made here: http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=61789#post61789

 

[Apogee]

Hey Sean,

Nice job so far!

Can't believe Kubota shipped a ROPS that the seat doesn't fit with. Stupid! Too bad you couldn't just smash in the seat corners where it hits. Of course it depends on wide your ass is... ;-)

Thanks for the tip on the Timesert. Seems like a good solution.

Congrats on getting the steering box finished. I asked the same question about the grease quite some time ago and thought you might be interested:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6501&highlight=steering+grease

When I was at my Kubota dealer, I happened to notice a bottle of Land Pride (owned by Kubota) EP 00 Grease for the gearboxes on the brush hogs and post hole diggers. It seemed perfect as it was thicker than the original gear oil, but not like thick grease. What is in the bottle is Shell Alvania. Part #821-045-C It was a bit pricey at $20.49 for 32 ounces, but I figured that it would be far better than losing the oil again if the side seal fails like it did on one of my units before I bought it.

Here's a bit of info on the Shell Alvania EP grease and it will make sense why I bought it after reading:

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140002280762_1669.pdf

Apparently Shell has decided to rename it Gadus (at least in some parts of the world). Here's a link to the current product:

http://www.qclubricants.com/aeroshell/alvaniaep00.htm

One could likely find it cheaper by searching. I just happened to see it while at the dealer and grabbed it.

Again, nice work thus far.

Steve