50 Hour Oil Change--What Oil to Use?
- Thread starter Stitchit1
- Start date
Hi all, hope you don't mine a thread revive!
I was searching for "SAE 10W-30" and found this old discussion.
This is my first tractor, MX5200, have had it now about 3 months, am at about 25 hours, and now preparing for my 50 Hour maintenance work, and this appears to be a valuable thread / discussion.
Many helpful replies in here, with lots of good information, thank you for that.
I have a follow-up question please, relating to our locations / ambient air / operating temperatures, and if how you guys have related your tractor use from the Kubota manual documentation.
My location of use, is eastern Oklahoma US, and summer can be easily into the high 90's Fahrenheit. This could be all sorts of use, mowing, moving rocks and dirt, gravel grading, etc. Winter time use, would just be to pick up rocks, move some dirt, gravel grading, etc.
With that said, and the thread discussion has folks with some comments about 0w / 10w / 15w, etc, I would super-appreciate if anyone has recommendations on whether an oil change should be pursued for Summer time, vs Winter time tractor usage? Or, what the best once-a-year oil change should be, if I won't be putting more than 100-150 Hours over the year on the tractor?
I can share the following details, from the Kubota manual -
Above 25C (77F) ----- SAE30, SAE10W-30, or 15W-40
-10C to 25C (14F to 77F) ----- SAE20, SAE10W-30, or 15W-40
Below -10C (14F) ------ SAE10W-30
It is massively unlikely that I would be operating the tractor below 0C / 32F, probably not even below 40F. 90% of the tractor usage, will be with temperatures above 50F, and 75% of the time actually will be at least 77F as they note that threshold value in their temperature scale.
That said, I believe that my best bet is just just stick with the 15W-40, for all-around overall annual usage, and I would do a Full Synthetic, since it will be once a month that the tractor gets an engine start (and there was a comment earlier in the discussion, about a tractor getting started this infrequently)...
I was looking at / considering this -
Shell Rotella T6 15W-40 Full Synthetic Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Ro...ynthetic-Diesel-Engine-Oil-1-Gallon/869812640
This oil meets the "CJ-4" criteria, but does seem to be more listed as for diesel tractor trailer trucks, than for 'tractors'....!?
"The viscosity grade that we know our customers prefer and trust*, now available in a full synthetic product. Shell Rotella T6 15W-40 Heavy Duty Engine Oil is a full synthetic product formulated for improved** hard-working protection. Shell Rotella T6 is suitable for new and older diesel-powered vehicles from Class 8 tractor/trailers to heavy duty pickups, delivery, utility and school bus fleets. It is suitable as a replacement for mineral and synthetic based SAE 15W-40 API CK-4, CJ-4 oils in low temperature applications. * According to Kline ** Compared to conventional and semi-synthetic Rotella 15W-40 products."
-Strong oxidation resistance in the new Volvo T-13 test, controls harmful acid build up, and easily exceeds the API CK-4 limits for oxidation and viscosity increase.
-Improved oxidation resistance helps prevent deposits in the engine, maintain cleanliness, and prevent acid buildup, which can cause corrosive wear in the engine.
-Excellent oil consumption control, through lower oil volatility in the Noack test compared to conventional Shell Rotella T4 15W-40. Lower Volatility = Lower Oil Consumption.
-Improved copper corrosion protection and lead corrosion protection, with an average of 50% more wear protection than required by API industry wear tests.
-Better cold cranking properties and low temperature pumpability at -15°C compared to conventional and semi-synthetic Shell Rotella 15W-40 products means that it reaches critical engine parts faster in colder temperatures, to minimize wear and make hard work easier in cold climates.
The 'T5' - is also CJ-4 compliant --
Shell Rotella T5 15W-40 Synthetic Blend Diesel Engine Oil, 1 gal
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-T5-15W-40-Synthetic-Blend-Diesel-Engine-Oil-1-gal/189732446
Am not sure if the 'Synthetic Blend' is worth the cost of just a couple bucks lower, than the full Synthetic, and it's benefit.
Appreciate any material / advice / experience that folks could share on this related matter to the original post!
I was searching for "SAE 10W-30" and found this old discussion.
This is my first tractor, MX5200, have had it now about 3 months, am at about 25 hours, and now preparing for my 50 Hour maintenance work, and this appears to be a valuable thread / discussion.
Many helpful replies in here, with lots of good information, thank you for that.
I have a follow-up question please, relating to our locations / ambient air / operating temperatures, and if how you guys have related your tractor use from the Kubota manual documentation.
My location of use, is eastern Oklahoma US, and summer can be easily into the high 90's Fahrenheit. This could be all sorts of use, mowing, moving rocks and dirt, gravel grading, etc. Winter time use, would just be to pick up rocks, move some dirt, gravel grading, etc.
With that said, and the thread discussion has folks with some comments about 0w / 10w / 15w, etc, I would super-appreciate if anyone has recommendations on whether an oil change should be pursued for Summer time, vs Winter time tractor usage? Or, what the best once-a-year oil change should be, if I won't be putting more than 100-150 Hours over the year on the tractor?
I can share the following details, from the Kubota manual -
Above 25C (77F) ----- SAE30, SAE10W-30, or 15W-40
-10C to 25C (14F to 77F) ----- SAE20, SAE10W-30, or 15W-40
Below -10C (14F) ------ SAE10W-30
It is massively unlikely that I would be operating the tractor below 0C / 32F, probably not even below 40F. 90% of the tractor usage, will be with temperatures above 50F, and 75% of the time actually will be at least 77F as they note that threshold value in their temperature scale.
That said, I believe that my best bet is just just stick with the 15W-40, for all-around overall annual usage, and I would do a Full Synthetic, since it will be once a month that the tractor gets an engine start (and there was a comment earlier in the discussion, about a tractor getting started this infrequently)...
I was looking at / considering this -
Shell Rotella T6 15W-40 Full Synthetic Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Ro...ynthetic-Diesel-Engine-Oil-1-Gallon/869812640
This oil meets the "CJ-4" criteria, but does seem to be more listed as for diesel tractor trailer trucks, than for 'tractors'....!?
"The viscosity grade that we know our customers prefer and trust*, now available in a full synthetic product. Shell Rotella T6 15W-40 Heavy Duty Engine Oil is a full synthetic product formulated for improved** hard-working protection. Shell Rotella T6 is suitable for new and older diesel-powered vehicles from Class 8 tractor/trailers to heavy duty pickups, delivery, utility and school bus fleets. It is suitable as a replacement for mineral and synthetic based SAE 15W-40 API CK-4, CJ-4 oils in low temperature applications. * According to Kline ** Compared to conventional and semi-synthetic Rotella 15W-40 products."
-Strong oxidation resistance in the new Volvo T-13 test, controls harmful acid build up, and easily exceeds the API CK-4 limits for oxidation and viscosity increase.
-Improved oxidation resistance helps prevent deposits in the engine, maintain cleanliness, and prevent acid buildup, which can cause corrosive wear in the engine.
-Excellent oil consumption control, through lower oil volatility in the Noack test compared to conventional Shell Rotella T4 15W-40. Lower Volatility = Lower Oil Consumption.
-Improved copper corrosion protection and lead corrosion protection, with an average of 50% more wear protection than required by API industry wear tests.
-Better cold cranking properties and low temperature pumpability at -15°C compared to conventional and semi-synthetic Shell Rotella 15W-40 products means that it reaches critical engine parts faster in colder temperatures, to minimize wear and make hard work easier in cold climates.
The 'T5' - is also CJ-4 compliant --
Shell Rotella T5 15W-40 Synthetic Blend Diesel Engine Oil, 1 gal
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-T5-15W-40-Synthetic-Blend-Diesel-Engine-Oil-1-gal/189732446
Am not sure if the 'Synthetic Blend' is worth the cost of just a couple bucks lower, than the full Synthetic, and it's benefit.
Appreciate any material / advice / experience that folks could share on this related matter to the original post!
Oh gawd, another oil thread. They never seem to die.
I follow what the owners manual recommends. Has never failed me yet in 50+yrs
I follow what the owners manual recommends. Has never failed me yet in 50+yrs
My only comment is no comment. Follow and adhere to the OEM's recommendations. Oil is like mouthwash. Mouthwash makes your breath smell good, oil makes your motor able to run. Choice is entirely up to your preference so long as that choice meets or exceeds the OEM spec.
Like Capital One states in their ads... What's in your wallet? In this case it's what you want to spend for peace of mind.
Like Capital One states in their ads... What's in your wallet? In this case it's what you want to spend for peace of mind.
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Like Flip said - matter of preferences, as long as it meets specs.
Personally, I use Rotella T6 5w-40, solely for the 5w cold starts in winter (we're predicted for 12-18" of snow today/tomorrow). I noticed a big difference in cold starts after going to 5w.
If not for the real cold, I'd still probably stick with T6 15w-40.
For the most part, all of my motor oils are now full synthetic. Not a lobby for or against synthetic, is just my preference.
Personally, I use Rotella T6 5w-40, solely for the 5w cold starts in winter (we're predicted for 12-18" of snow today/tomorrow). I noticed a big difference in cold starts after going to 5w.
If not for the real cold, I'd still probably stick with T6 15w-40.
For the most part, all of my motor oils are now full synthetic. Not a lobby for or against synthetic, is just my preference.
I have been using Rotella T6 15 40, it doesn***8217;t get below 20F here and when it does, I***8217;m certainly not running a tractor
. Works great in a hot Tennessee summer though. If the motor blows up, I***8217;ll scrap the tractor and buy a new one.First select an oil labeled DELO.This stands for Diesel Engine Lubricating Oil. Mobile, Chevron, and several others make it for serious diesel service. It comes in all types of viscosities and blends but it is all intended for serious diesel service. There are many other oils that are labeled as ok for diesel service but donÂ’t carry the DELO designation. You will never find diesel fleet managers using anything but DELO oil. Pick out the viscosity and type of oil you want within the diesel oil family and you canÂ’t go wrong for your Kubota engine. As FYI, Walmart has several brands of DELO oils.
What I use as well and in my diesel pickup truck too. The engines turn over better when it's cold out and my tractors as well as my truck reside in unheated buildings and in the case of the tractors, no electricity either so no block heaters. I need every advantage I can get when it's below zero and I need the tractors to plow snow.
Thanks all, I do appreciate the feedback.
I'll probably just give the T6 15w-40 Synthetic a go!
Yes, I totally understand, oil discussions are often a 'everyone has their own opinion', but if we're all friendly and honest about our experiences, and simply trying to be helpful for one another, it's worth sharing!
I'll probably just give the T6 15w-40 Synthetic a go!
Yes, I totally understand, oil discussions are often a 'everyone has their own opinion', but if we're all friendly and honest about our experiences, and simply trying to be helpful for one another, it's worth sharing!
freewheel3
Active member
Equipment
MX5000DT LA852, BX1800D, B6000DT, B6200HSTD, B7100HSTD, L185, T1700HX, ZD1211
I run a rental fleet of light towers and generators running both Kubota and Isuzu engines. Initially I used dino 15w40 in all of them when I first started my company, had no problems even with over 30,000 hrs on some of them.
As time went on, I switched to synthetic 5w40, still had no problems.
Then, when finances finally permitted, I started buying new equipment and used syn 5w40. All of a sudden, I have problems, engines with 1000 Hrs using excessive amounts of oil.
I took several units back for warranty work. The shop manger said he sees the problem lots on engines broke in with synthetic oil. Improper ring seating. He told me to break them in with 15w40 dino oil for the first 1000 Hrs, with the first change at 250, 2nd at 500, 3rd at 1000, then switch to synthetic if I wanted.
I did that several years ago, and have had no problems since. I'm a firm believer in breaking engines in with dino oil now.
As time went on, I switched to synthetic 5w40, still had no problems.
Then, when finances finally permitted, I started buying new equipment and used syn 5w40. All of a sudden, I have problems, engines with 1000 Hrs using excessive amounts of oil.
I took several units back for warranty work. The shop manger said he sees the problem lots on engines broke in with synthetic oil. Improper ring seating. He told me to break them in with 15w40 dino oil for the first 1000 Hrs, with the first change at 250, 2nd at 500, 3rd at 1000, then switch to synthetic if I wanted.
I did that several years ago, and have had no problems since. I'm a firm believer in breaking engines in with dino oil now.
Huh, I guess that means my 35 year old L2250 w/ 500+ hours on the clock is yet to be broken in.That's funny to me, you guys refer to a break-in period, as 1000 Hours.
Never heard of a 1000 hr break-in before. I changed both my current tractors to synthetic around 20-25 hrs and neither one burn a drop of oil.
If synthetic oil keeps rings from seating how do vehicles that are factory filled with synthetic ever run at all?
If synthetic oil keeps rings from seating how do vehicles that are factory filled with synthetic ever run at all?