48 inch brush hog blade removal

[billrigsby]

Well I'm trying to work on my brush hog, the blades are like butter knives but not the butter knife part but the handle part they are so rounded it's pathetic. I've been trying to get these two nuts loose for 2 days, at this point I'm just glad I've got the two blades to actually rotate 360 degrees again. I've also been trying to get the whole assembly off by removing the nut holding it on. I have even resorted to hanging a 50 pound weight on it, while I am wailing on it with a hammer on the top end. As the owners manual says you may need to tap on it lightly to remove it, being careful not to damage the blade bolts. Well to that I say good I say good F'ing luck.

I'm waiting to find out Monday if the blade bolts are still available from brush hog if they are I'm just going to cut them off, and hope I never have to take this whole assembly off for repairs.

I'm not really asking for any advice here this is just a bitch session, but if anyone has any I will gladly accept it.

Frustrated in Florissant


AHHH, now I feel so much better.

 

[85Hokie]

Bill,

had the same problem under my B7100 - had to make a set of rebars to place in the holes of the spindle and then place a long 2x4 between them, while I had a adjustable wrench that was about 2' long, it stillll took a lot to bust those nuts! Figurative and literally! I share your pain! I had the deck standing at 90 degree too! I have placed a set of vice grips set to a very tight grip that stopped the blades from moving and then whaled on the nut, if that has a washer under it, be careful to pay attention to see if it is cupped one way or the other.

 

[billrigsby]

I'm just guessing, but if there was a rubber plug on that 3-inch access hole, I bet half the stuff wouldn't be rusted to hell and back, oh well, the previous owner did not know what the term maintenance meant

Bill Rigsby
Florissant CO

1972(?) KUBOTA L-1500-DT
Great Bend M10 48" Front End Loader
Brush Hog 48" "Squealer Mower"
Atlas 48" Landscape Box
Rhino 48" Rear Blade
Draw Bar with 2" Ball
28" Fork Lift Forks
36" Sears Snow Blower (still to be mounted to the front PTO)

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[billrigsby]

I have even resorted to hanging a 50 pound weight on it, while I am wailing on it with a hammer on the top end.

Like this, she still will come off,

Maybe an acid (muriatic) rust remover?.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Its called a blue tip wrench. Oxy/acetelyne.
All i had was 2 propane torches, lit em both and heated for a long long time.

 

[Diydave]

Have you tried the wax trick? Take a propane torch, and heat the nut to about 300 degrees, or so, and take a beeswax candle, and melt it against the threads, then let it cool down again. I have gone so far, as to put a long cheater bar, on the breaker bar, and drive the tractor and 'hog up to a substantial tree, and use the motor, to do the work. (use low gear, and have a helper hold the wrench up, till it hits the tree, then GTFO the way...)

Don't forget to apply never seize, LIBERALLY(like you are a congressman, spending taxpayer money), on the new bolts and nuts...

 

[armylifer]

My neighbor has a 48" Landpride Bush Hog and he asked me to help him remove the blade to sharpen it. I tried for for more than 30 minutes to remove that bolt and it would not budge. I finally took a hand grinder to the blade and sharpened it while still attached. It was a real pain trying to do it that way but that nut would not come off no matter what we did to it.

 

[Russell King]

I think you have a few choices:
Remove blades and nothing else. This is what I would pursue. Try to spray the threads of the bolts with penetrating oil and wait. Get the correct size socket to fit the nut in the largest drive size (3/4 or 1 inch). I recommend the 1 inch size since the wrench will be longer. Through the access hole use a short extension to get to the nut. Rotate toward the front and let the extension touch the edge of the access hole. Then you can use a small come along between the wrench and the a frame (three point) to turn the wrench. Don't put too much tension to bend the wrench. Let it set for a while if it doesn't break loose.

Second - grind the bolt "heads" off and drive them out then replace them with new bolts and nuts

Third - remove the stump jumper and then replace the stump jumper and blades with new. You will probably be cutting and grinding it off.


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[billrigsby]

I like the come along idea, I'm currently using three-quarter inch drive, I will try that probably tomorrow after work. Right now as long as I can get the blades off and get them sharpened I'll be happy.

Bill Rigsby
Florissant CO

1972(?) KUBOTA L-1500-DT
Great Bend M10 48" Front End Loader
Brush Hog 48" "Squealer Mower"
Atlas 48" Landscape Box
Rhino 48" Rear Blade
Draw Bar with 2" Ball
28" Fork Lift Forks
36" Sears Snow Blower (still to be mounted to the front PTO)

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S7 using Tapatalk

 

[scdeerslayer]

I couldn't remove one of the bolts on my dad's and we don't have a cutting torch, so I took a drill with a small drill bit and drilled a small hole through the nut on opposite sides right next to the bolt threads, then used bigger and bigger drill bits until I was nearly through the outside edge. By that point the threads of the nut were separated and I only had to use a chisel on the remaining metal on the outside edge of the bolt.

The bolt/nut set should be pretty universal, go see what your farm supply store or dealer has. If they sell replacement blades they should have the bolt/nut set.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Are The Nuts Left Hand Thread. Please get rid of the milk crates .I almost lost a coworker when a large Bush Hog mower fell on top of him trying to remove the blades.
Good Luck Lance

 

[billrigsby]

I'm pretty sure they're right hand thread but they don't turn in either direction.

The mower is also supported by a 1ton chain hoist not to worry,

Bill Rigsby
Florissant CO

1972(?) KUBOTA L-1500-DT
Great Bend M10 48" Front End Loader
Brush Hog 48" "Squealer Mower"
Atlas 48" Landscape Box
Rhino 48" Rear Blade
Draw Bar with 2" Ball
28" Fork Lift Forks
36" Sears Snow Blower (still to be mounted to the front PTO)

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S7 using Tapatalk

 

[Diydave]

I think I see the problem, now. You don't have it attached to a tractor...

If you hook it up to a tractor, you can get loads more leverage, on the cheater bar...

 

[85Hokie]

I think I see the problem, now. You don't have it attached to a tractor...

If you hook it up to a tractor, you can get loads more leverage, on the cheater bar...

Good point - when I had a 5 footer - the tractor moved forward in low gear when I placed a 6' cheater bar on it! I never got the $@#@# nut off either! I backed it over a small hill and sharpened the blades from there. They should not be super sharp to begin with, a nice constant beveled edge

 

[Russell King]

That is why the come along works well, forces are all in the implement.
I guess you could bend the implement if too much force is applied



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[billrigsby]

Well after trying numerous things other than cutting the nuts / bolts off. I just hooked it all back up to the three-point and did a couple passes now that I got the blades spinning 360 degrees. For completely dull blade that did a surprisingly good job. I think I'll do some cutting and then sharpen them for my next pass once grass really starts growing. We'll worry about the bolts later. So now my question is what PTO gear and what speed / gear should I be running this for cutting grass , just wild weeds and stuff not an actual lawn?

Also need to figure out how to fix the "sinking" 3 point!

Bill Rigsby
Florissant CO

1972(?) KUBOTA L-1500-DT
Great Bend M10 48" Front End Loader
Brush Hog 48" "Squealer Mower"
Atlas 48" Landscape Box
Rhino 48" Rear Blade
Draw Bar with 2" Ball
28" Fork Lift Forks
36" Sears Snow Blower (still to be mounted to the front PTO)

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S7 using Tapatalk

 

[billrigsby]

Also need to figure out how to fix the "sinking" 3 point!

Is it a fair assumption that parts 30 and 31 would be the culprits to the sinking 3 point (ring and O-ring)? or just the O-ring?

 

[procraftmike]

Those should be the parts you need. I just did this a couple of months ago on my B7100. It cured the issue. It was fairly easy to do as well. The hardest part was finding a way to get the piston out of the cylinder. I think I got mine to pop out by manually working the 3 point arms. I have heard of using a strong magnet as well.

 

[Russell King]

On my L185 the PTO number 1 gear is the 540 rpm gear.
Tractor gear can be selected to get a good cut. Usually I run in low 4 or 5 for thicker grass and high 6 for shorter grass.
On the tachometer will be some indicator of what engine rpm to use to get 540 PTO rpm. It will be near wide open


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[urednecku]

Had to use a 'torque multiplier' to get the nuts off the blades of my 6' bushog. I can't remember how many times it multiplied the torque, but we still had to use a 6' cheater bar on that.