3pt Attachments
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I think as a rule you're better to have only a minimum amount of slack in the check chains. Depending on the geometry of your setup, you may need more or less slack to ensure the implement will fully raise or lower without binding, but I don't see, in general, much use or benefit in having the implement free to move laterally.
Having said that, I run my post hole digger quite loose, because it seems to work better when it has the freedom to "float" a little bit. I keep a little bit of play in my concrete mixer, too, since sometimes it's nice to be able to sway it back and forth a few inches. I keep a little B6000 with a trailer hitch mover on the back, and it's sloppy loose: Just enough to keep the arms out of the tires. It's absolute child's play to hook onto a trailer, since the hitch can move up, down, left, right, and with a gentle press on the tire I can roll it forward or backward 1/8" at a time if I want. My sickle bar mower I use to cut around trees I usually run a little slack, so it can float if I hit an unseen root or accidentally get a bit too close to something otherwise.
I run my box blades snugg-ish (If that's even a word...); same for my plow and disks. I've got a terracing blade I keep snuggish, as well as the tillers and tool bar. My brush hog on the tight side; I don't like any play at all back there, since it is so long and builds up significant momentum with any slack. I don't have a 3pt backhoe, but I wouldn't let there be any slack in there if I had one, having seen them operate.
I guess it really depends on what you're trying to get out of the implement. What are you trying to work out?
Having said that, I run my post hole digger quite loose, because it seems to work better when it has the freedom to "float" a little bit. I keep a little bit of play in my concrete mixer, too, since sometimes it's nice to be able to sway it back and forth a few inches. I keep a little B6000 with a trailer hitch mover on the back, and it's sloppy loose: Just enough to keep the arms out of the tires. It's absolute child's play to hook onto a trailer, since the hitch can move up, down, left, right, and with a gentle press on the tire I can roll it forward or backward 1/8" at a time if I want. My sickle bar mower I use to cut around trees I usually run a little slack, so it can float if I hit an unseen root or accidentally get a bit too close to something otherwise.
I run my box blades snugg-ish (If that's even a word...); same for my plow and disks. I've got a terracing blade I keep snuggish, as well as the tillers and tool bar. My brush hog on the tight side; I don't like any play at all back there, since it is so long and builds up significant momentum with any slack. I don't have a 3pt backhoe, but I wouldn't let there be any slack in there if I had one, having seen them operate.
I guess it really depends on what you're trying to get out of the implement. What are you trying to work out?
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Active member
Equipment
M4500, New Idea Cut-Ditioner, JD 14T Baler, IH "Plow Chief" plows, Oliver Rake
Bale spear - snug (hate it slapping around with a bale on)
Blade - snug
3 bottom plow - very slack (can't get it to plow right otherwise)
boom pole, carry all - whatever it's adjusted at when i hook it up
Blade - snug
3 bottom plow - very slack (can't get it to plow right otherwise)
boom pole, carry all - whatever it's adjusted at when i hook it up
It is conditional- it depends on what type of implement, what you are trying to do, and what your environment is.
I like mine tight for the finish mower tiller, and scraper blade. I want to control them with the steering wheel, not have them slapping around. Something like a post hole digger should be able to move some side-to-side, or it is going to jerk the tractor around, especially if you hit a root or rock.
I made pin-adjustable stabilizers for mine, because I hated how the turnbuckles loosened up. They keep an implement tight, but like it was said, you also have to be careful that things don't get too tight when you raise the implement- depending on how wide the arms are spread, there can be a difference in tightness between the arms being down, and being raised.
With the pin-adjustable stabilizers, I have about a half-inch of play from one side to the other, which seems to work well with what I do. And, they don't bind when I raise the implement.
I like mine tight for the finish mower tiller, and scraper blade. I want to control them with the steering wheel, not have them slapping around. Something like a post hole digger should be able to move some side-to-side, or it is going to jerk the tractor around, especially if you hit a root or rock.
I made pin-adjustable stabilizers for mine, because I hated how the turnbuckles loosened up. They keep an implement tight, but like it was said, you also have to be careful that things don't get too tight when you raise the implement- depending on how wide the arms are spread, there can be a difference in tightness between the arms being down, and being raised.
With the pin-adjustable stabilizers, I have about a half-inch of play from one side to the other, which seems to work well with what I do. And, they don't bind when I raise the implement.