345dt clutch replacement

jgrup

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Dec 28, 2015
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Cameron, Mo
I have an older 345dt tractor, with clutch severely slipping. I've split smaller tractors and replaced clutches, but I know very little about the dual stage clutch arrangement. Kubotabooks .com does not show a service manual for this model. Is there another reputable place to get a service manual?
Thank you.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Sent you an email on the WSM (Service manual) issue. ;)

Repairing the clutch on that model isn't hard, just takes a little work. :D
 
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rbargeron

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jgrup, I've had three of these machines - I'm assuming you've tried adjusting the pedal linkage? With the pedal full-down does the pto stop turning? If it does, try adjusting the pedal linkage before diving deep. There's a good range of adjustment. You can actually adjust it to the point where the pto will no longer disengage but at least the travel clutch stops slipping.

If you've decided to replace the travel clutch, splitting a dual clutch machine is the same as a single. The amount of work partly depends on what kind of loader it has. The Kubota 1720 loader has a big frame and some have an external hydraulic tank and front pump. The good news is the frame and loader can stay in place. Only the external pump needs to be unbolted and swung out of the way. Other loader brands may block removal of the front driveshaft with the loader frame in place.

Generally the steps are:
- Take down the front driveshaft - see wsm
- Park the tractor on a level surface leaving a few feet clear in front.
- Securely brace the loader in the full-up position (I've used two 2x6's standing the on the tapered frame rails) Notch both ends of the posts so they stay in place, locating them about halfway back or more.
- Take off the hood (unplug lights)
- Remove the bolts connecting the front support to the tapered frame rails.
- Drain the tractor internal hydraulic system only.
- If there's a front pump, take out attaching bolts (leave hoses connected) and move it to the side.
- Unplug the wiring, speedo cable, decompressor cable - see wsm
- unbolt the braces from the firewall to the radiator support
- Place one jack under the trans to support the tractor.
- Drive wedges in above the front axle to prevent pivoting.
- Place a second rolling floor jack under the back end of the engine.
- Take out the bolts attaching the clutch housing to the engine.
- Separate the engine & front axle at the clutch housing.
(may need to drive a tapered tool into the seam to get it started)
- Roll the engine away 2-3 ft, checking for anything still connected
- The travel clutch & pressure plate are the first things you'll see on the outboard end.

Many times a new travel disk is all it needs (plus a new release bearing). If it was chattering you may need to go further, replacing more parts. A clutch aligning tool is needed when reassembling. See post #3 in this thread The tool is for initial centering of the loose clutch disk and can be made of anything.

The travel disk example here is widely available as is the release bearing .

Good luck, Dick B
 
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