3302 Vs. 2501 (first tractor)
- Thread starter Quadzilla32
- Start date
Grumpy brings up a good point. You can always slow down or take a smaller bite if you're overloading, but the terrain roughness may prevent you from speeding up when the load is light. These things don't have suspensions.
I recently got an MX, 52hp. That's a good size for mowing fields. I got a 2m (6 foot) flail, which does a good job of taking the top out of it. A flail is a bit easier on the machine than a rotary cutter. Another option is a batwing.
To my mind, width is king in this kind of mowing. I'd rather mow 5mph with a 6 foot mower than 6mph with a 5 foot mower - much easier on the body.
An L will do the job, an MX is quite a bit more tractor for not much more money.
DPF I don't think is a major issue. Even with light duty tasks, there's no real reason not to run high RPM. I'm lucky in NZ that we don't have DPF on our MXs, conversely we don't get a whole lot of the fruit that you guys get - we basically have a 10 year old model with manual clutch (even on the HST), and pretty basic appointment.
Anyway, a long way of saying you probably can't go wrong here, but I'd look at a bigger machine if I were you. And look at a flail rather than a rotary cutter - they don't stick out as far as a brush hog, and so they don't push the machine around as much.
To my mind, width is king in this kind of mowing. I'd rather mow 5mph with a 6 foot mower than 6mph with a 5 foot mower - much easier on the body.
An L will do the job, an MX is quite a bit more tractor for not much more money.
DPF I don't think is a major issue. Even with light duty tasks, there's no real reason not to run high RPM. I'm lucky in NZ that we don't have DPF on our MXs, conversely we don't get a whole lot of the fruit that you guys get - we basically have a 10 year old model with manual clutch (even on the HST), and pretty basic appointment.
Anyway, a long way of saying you probably can't go wrong here, but I'd look at a bigger machine if I were you. And look at a flail rather than a rotary cutter - they don't stick out as far as a brush hog, and so they don't push the machine around as much.
Here is a mowing chart ...
Big tires, low air pressure, long wheel base makes for a better ride ... A suspension or air seat also helps!
Big tires, low air pressure, long wheel base makes for a better ride ... A suspension or air seat also helps!
With RFM's at a comfortable pace it takes me 33 minutes with the 5' deck and 25 minutes with the 7-1/2' deck. That's doing neat alternating patterns. One time I did a speed run with the 7-1/2' deck and did our 3-1/2 acres in just a tad under 18 minute per acre. That was too fast and bordered on abuse.
I love my l2501, but it fit my old heavily wooded flat property a lot better than my hilly and open current one. It sounds like yours is flat and open, and with you wanting to mow, I’d recommend going with a bigger machine such as an mx if you have the extra money. I don’t know if that l3302 would be a huge upgrade from the l2501 in terms of power and feel, as they are both still compact tractors. I will say if you go l2501, the thing doesn’t use a lot of fuel.
On the hills the l2501 is noticeably slower, especially when using ground engagement implements or PTO implements. Even on flat land you will notice the lack of power while mowing, obviously this is personal preference though, depends how much time you want to spend on the machine.
On the hills the l2501 is noticeably slower, especially when using ground engagement implements or PTO implements. Even on flat land you will notice the lack of power while mowing, obviously this is personal preference though, depends how much time you want to spend on the machine.
And an M isn't much more than an MX. When I compare my MX and M6060, the M is so much more tractor for very similar money.
I have to agree with @JasonW and the suggestion to buy a reasonably low hour M such as an M6060/M7060 or the M6040/7040 models. They're so much more capable than even the MX/L60 models, and given the size of the property in question far more practical.
Dang Guys, we ran one guy off this week already
. I think Quad would be stylin', tilling his wife's garden on an M5.Looking good is all that matters, right?.... I appreciate the feedback and suggestions guys. I'm going to check out a couple tractors. I like the idea of a bigger machine in case i need more power later on.
Me being me, I checked their numbers.
If you had a long enough field that you didn't have overlap, a 5' cutter at 5 mph would mow 3 acres.(5mi/hr*5280ft/mi*5ft)/43,560sq ft/acre = 3.03ac vs 2.5 in their chart
They've apparently left an allowance for overlap. My point was, I think I tend to leave about the same overlap, not proportionately more with the wider mower. I know it felt noticeably slower with a 5' vs 6.
I don't see a problem tilling a garden with an M5 ... just make sure to get the creep range.Dang Guys, we ran one guy off this week already
But 40 acres in CO and I can see how an entry level used M would be something worth considering. I'm only on 20 acres and I could easily put an M5 to good use. An M6060 and 12ft folding cutter on this 12 or so acre field makes it an enjoyable (and comfortable) 3 hour job. I've cut this field many times with both the MX6000 and the M6060 and with the 7ft rotary cutter behind both, and the 5ft flail behind the MX and I know which tractor and cutter combination works best and it's in the photo below.
The OP has to make up his/her own mind of course, but my suggestion is an MX5400 or L5060 at a minimum, or at least something capable of pulling around a decent sized cutter. Sure, it'd be fun the first time with a smaller tractor and cutter, but at some point it'll get old.
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I think the L2501 could suffice for your planned usage (but only for your planned usage). With your acreage, you could certainly benefit going with a larger 'frame' tractor. If you do go in that direction, take a look at the MX or Grand L series machines. And, since you are operating at 6K elevation, I would recommend a turbocharged variant of either tractor.
Mike
Sure, you can buy too large just in case you might want it in the future. That's not very cost effective though.
What if you downsize and no longer need a tractor?
It's just one approach, but I agree with buy the appropriate size. Once you use it for a while, you'll have a better idea if larger is better or not.
What if you downsize and no longer need a tractor?
It's just one approach, but I agree with buy the appropriate size. Once you use it for a while, you'll have a better idea if larger is better or not.
jyoutz
Well-known member
Premium Member
Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
It depends on what you do with the 40 acres, and its makeup. For instance, is it 40 acres of woods that you never plan to work in, or 40 acres that you plan to farm.
That’s why I mentioned a budget. I paid 27k for my 2014 M6040 with under 800 hours. It’s way more tractor than a L2501-L3901. I owned a L3800 for 10 years.
It’s not cost effective to buy a newer L series for almost 30k when you are already questioning if it’s large enough.
The main downside to a larger machine is when/if you have to transport it. But that can be with any size machine.
The HP/weight/lift capacity per cost is extremely good on a M series. Especially older models.
ken erickson
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100 hst, 2650 front mount snowblower, L2501 hst qa loader
I fully agree. I have 57 acres and perfectly happy with the frame size and HP of my L2501hst. I have never been able to wrap my head around the concept of solely basing or even the first priority of amount of acreage determines the size of the tractor.
I based my tractor purchase on my list of chores that the tractor must be capable of and then the budget. Could I find a tractor that was able to preform the chores in a reasonable (reasonable for me) time and then fit into my planned budget? It would not have mattered if I had 10 acres or 100 acres, all other variables being equal, I still would have wound up with the same tractor.
It is plenty nimble in tight spaces when maintenance mowing around oaks, native woody species such as American Hazelnut, Wild plum. I pull a light duty 6 foot Landpride mower with hills. The nature of my prairie grasses and roughness of the land would prevent me from mowing any faster than the speed I now travel at.
In the initial post the OP mentioned he will be mowing light prairie grass without hills.
The OP also mentions light dirt work and was initially comparing a L2501 with a L3302. Loader work will be essentially the same between the two other than perhaps pushing into a heavy clay dirt pile.
From the initial post by the OP suggesting either the L2501 or L3302 I would opt for the less complex and less expensive L2501 and not have to worry about regenerations and spend the extra savings on implements.
ken erickson
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100 hst, 2650 front mount snowblower, L2501 hst qa loader
I would have no way of knowing or judging due to not knowing what jobs you need the tractor to accomplish. Perhaps you regularly lift 1500 lb pallets , hay bales or totes with hardwood firewood on your acreage, then I would say no, its not overkill.
And of course I only offered my take on my own tractor purchase and the OP's initial posting stating what his intended chores will be and his concern about more complex emission systems between the TWO examples he cited.
I think we all need to agree that there's no right or wrong here. It's all personal opinion based on our own experiences and situations, and we all want the best for the OP. We all like tractors and want the OP to enjoy the ownership experience as we do.
What I will say is that whatever the OP choose just make sure it's not a BX. I've sat on a BX for hours on end cutting a bumpy field and it's not a good time!
One of the reasons why I suggested something bigger is in part due to the ride comfort. Bigger tires and longer wheel base make for a much better ride over a bumpy pasture, and 12+ acres means a fair amount of time out there. Also, there was mention of horses which might mean hay bales, and we all know that round bales are much more cost effective compared to square bales. Are large round bales and trailers in the OP's future? If so, an MX or bigger is going to provide more options.
Personally I'd never buy another tractor smaller than the MX6000 and if I needed to cut around trees and such I'd buy a zero turn. But that's just my own experience with a BX25D, two MX6000s and an M6060 on 20 acres but also working on other properties in the summer months.
What I will say is that whatever the OP choose just make sure it's not a BX. I've sat on a BX for hours on end cutting a bumpy field and it's not a good time!
One of the reasons why I suggested something bigger is in part due to the ride comfort. Bigger tires and longer wheel base make for a much better ride over a bumpy pasture, and 12+ acres means a fair amount of time out there. Also, there was mention of horses which might mean hay bales, and we all know that round bales are much more cost effective compared to square bales. Are large round bales and trailers in the OP's future? If so, an MX or bigger is going to provide more options.
Personally I'd never buy another tractor smaller than the MX6000 and if I needed to cut around trees and such I'd buy a zero turn. But that's just my own experience with a BX25D, two MX6000s and an M6060 on 20 acres but also working on other properties in the summer months.