3 point wood chippers

[Jsjac]

The ONLY way to 'stop the rusting' , is to remove 100% of the *(*&%#$^& powdercoat 'paint'. probably the worst 'paint' invented. Unless 100% of it is removed(no 'fun' task', water(moisture) migrates under the paint and attacks the steel. A true no win scenario. In 5 decades I've never seen anything powder coated actually NOT rust once it gets a chip, ding,cut, slice. i do like the trailer though ! Thinking of trading my 6x10 tandem for one like yours.

I wondered about a hitch on the chipper but front end of tractor would be a 'tad light' !!

Sounds like you need a galvanized trailer.
N and N trailer out of Canada is a good one.

Jsjac

 

[nbryan]

Sounds like you need a galvanized trailer.
N and N trailer out of Canada is a good one.

Jsjac

If I was still in construction contracting I'd be looking at a galvy trailer replacement for sure, but now retired and using the rust heap dumper until it's gone. Prob spray it eventually with something to slow the process, but all I need is another 5-10 years I think and in my 70's I'll be having the young-uns bringing in the firewood. They can go get a galvy trailer if they want. I'm done investing in construction equipment!

 

[GeoHorn]

Is salt often used on roads up there in Hadashville? I wonder if perhaps the trailer needs to be rinsed-off after travelling. And I wonder if a zinc shouldn’t be added as anode….or if that would have any effect. (Galvanizing and zinc-rich primer does the same thing.)

 

[nbryan]

Is salt often used on roads up there in Hadashville? I wonder if perhaps the trailer needs to be rinsed-off after travelling. And I wonder if a zinc shouldn’t be added as anode….or if that would have any effect. (Galvanizing and zinc-rich primer does the same thing.)

The main east-west highway through Canada runs a few kms from us, and yes, in MB we're treated to road salting on such paved main routes during winter "between" seasons where it's 0C to -5C and it has an effect. I have no heated wash space for my equipment/vehicles within at least an hour drive so salt abuse on exposed vehicle steel does indeed happen on my road equipment.

 

[nbryan]

Is salt often used on roads up there in Hadashville? I wonder if perhaps the trailer needs to be rinsed-off after travelling. And I wonder if a zinc shouldn’t be added as anode….or if that would have any effect. (Galvanizing and zinc-rich primer does the same thing.)

At this point the cost of having the trailer sandblasted and refinished properly is not feasible for me. I think I'll spray on something that will creep into rusted pockets and displace the moisture, like rust check or something. I heard something like diesel and/or kerosene and/or mineral oil mixed will stick around and slow rusting. Sounds kind of stinky and dirty to me.
Keep the steel from getting too weak or perforating from rust, anyway. Not looking to win garbage trailer beauty contests.

 

[Elliott in GA]

At this point the cost of having the trailer sandblasted and refinished properly is not feasible for me. I think I'll spray on something that will creep into rusted pockets and displace the moisture, like rust check or something. I heard something like diesel and/or kerosene and/or mineral oil mixed will stick around and slow rusting. Sounds kind of stinky and dirty to me.
Keep the steel from getting too weak or perforating from rust, anyway. Not looking to win garbage trailer beauty contests.

A cheap, safe alternative is The Must For Rust. You just spray it, and leave it. It will remove light rust with one application (overnight), but multiple applications will be needed for more significant rust (thick rust should be physically removed then sprayed). It leaves behind a protective film, and it is safe for virtually all surfaces.

https://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/rust-remedies/the-must-for-rust-rust-remover-and-inhibitor

 

[Jsjac]

I originally got the input for the forum.
I bought a Woodmaxx WM8H.
I have been using it for the past couple weekends. Put about 10 hours on it so far.
Has been working great.
The only issue was the in feed roller adjustment bolt backed out and stopped feeding in smaller wood.
I have chipped some Hemlock about 6" in diameter. It also has taken lots of 4-5" hardwood.
So much small wood to deal with,it is easier just to chip it.
You can see a couple piles of chips.
Nineteen years ago we cut in the same area and some of the trees were already 12-14 in diameter.

 

[RalphVa]

The ONLY way to 'stop the rusting' , is to remove 100% of the *(*&%#$^& powdercoat 'paint'. probably the worst 'paint' invented. Unless 100% of it is removed(no 'fun' task', water(moisture) migrates under the paint and attacks the steel. A true no win scenario. In 5 decades I've never seen anything powder coated actually NOT rust once it gets a chip, ding,cut, slice. i do like the trailer though ! Thinking of trading my 6x10 tandem for one like yours.

I wondered about a hitch on the chipper but front end of tractor would be a 'tad light' !!

Best paint for rust is Rustoleium's Rust Reformer. It converts rust, iron oxide, to iron sulfide. It's basically the same stuff as from other manufacturers since 1970 or earlier.

 

[flyidaho]

Best paint for rust is Rustoleium's Rust Reformer. It converts rust, iron oxide, to iron sulfide. It's basically the same stuff as from other manufacturers since 1970 or earlier.

I have long used "Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer" for anything I have made out of steel. I use it as a finish coat, not just a primer, I happen to like the color (brownish). I will check out the Rust Reformer.
In the kitplane world, some still powdercoat their steel tube fuselages, not me! I too hate the stuff, and have yet to see it hold up over many years as well as paint.

 

[jimmyob]

Highly recommend hydraulic feed regardless what specific brand/model you get. Having the ability to vary feed speed between sappy stuff such as fresh green pine v hardwood helps quite a bit with eliminating discharge chute clogs while maintaining efficiency. It's also easier on the operator's hands and other upper extremity joints to have the infeed roller taking the shock of the blades hitting the knives v having that transferred through the limb all the way back into the operator's hands.

After about 75 hours (probably 55 with me and 20 with my brother) I've been pleased with the quality of the Woodland Mills WC68 I have. So far, I've had to do nothing other than grease it. Some swear by double infeed rollers. Having run commercial units with double infeed rollers and the Woodland Mills with a single infeed roller, I don't see any real difference but that's just my experience. Both take a little practice to feed something near maximum capacity.

Only other thing, you may not want to chip anything bigger than 3" but if you have something that will chip 5" or 6" you won't have to cut brush up as much to get the crooked parts and sub-branches to feed into the larger opening.

Good info, thanks! What chipper would you recommend for my LX3310? I have a wood stove so 5 to 6" max is fine, I'll burn the rest. Thank you!

 

[nbryan]

Good info, thanks! What chipper would you recommend for my LX3310? I have a wood stove so 5 to 6" max is fine, I'll burn the rest. Thank you!

My WC68 is a great piece of equipment. Would fit nicely on your LX. And you've got 7HP more to run it with off the PTO than my tractor.

 

[jimmyob]

My WC68 is a great piece of equipment. Would fit nicely on your LX. And you've got 7HP more to run it with off the PTO than my tractor.

Yessir, I just watched a video of a guy reviewing that one after a year's use. I agree with you, thanks!!

 

[Jsjac]

I originally got the input for the forum.
I bought a Woodmaxx WM8H.
I have been using it for the past couple weekends. Put about 10 hours on it so far.
Has been working great.
The only issue was the in feed roller adjustment bolt backed out and stopped feeding in smaller wood.
I have chipped some Hemlock about 6" in diameter. It also has taken lots of 4-5" hardwood.
So much small wood to deal with,it is easier just to chip it.
You can see a couple piles of chips.
Nineteen years ago we cut in the same area and some of the trees were already 12-14 in diameter. View attachment 87323

I now have about 20 hours on the Woodmaxx chipper.
It is the second best attachment that I have. Behind the snow blower.
I would recommend one with hydraulic feed rollers.

 

[jimmyob]

I now have about 20 hours on the Woodmaxx chipper.
It is the second best attachment that I have. Behind the snow blower.
I would recommend one with hydraulic feed rollers.

Yes, thanks! I definitely like what I'm seeing regarding the feeder. Best luck with yours, ty!

 

[NCL4701]

Good info, thanks! What chipper would you recommend for my LX3310? I have a wood stove so 5 to 6" max is fine, I'll burn the rest. Thank you!

I hear good things about Woodmaxx but I have no direct experience with them. The Woodland Mills WC-68 has been an excellent value for the money. If I could do it over, I’d definitely buy it again.

 

[jimmyob]

I'm 99% sold on the Woodmaxx WM8H.
Sleep on it a few more nights n pull trigger next week. I appreciate all the input. I'll post the results, thanks and happy new year!

 

[mcmxi]

I don't know much about wood chippers but this Bearcat 72854 is for sale near me. The seller is asking $4,300 for this beast that will munch 8" diameter stuff. Looking at their website these machines are a lot more than that new.

As much as I'd like a chipper I wouldn't have much use for one.