3 point Raise Arm Issue

Brettallen11

New member

Equipment
B3030
Jan 4, 2015
5
0
0
Longbranch, Washington
I have a B3030. Recently the linkage connecting the raise arm to the hydraulics system snapped. When it snapped the 3 point would no longer remain raised. There is a pin near the spline connection to the raise arm that I think should rotate and I thought it was stuck. It does not look right that it should not. Any thoughts? I tried to replace the linkage and it bent when I raised and lowered it but I salvaged the part before I bent it too much. I have attached a couple of pictures of the part in question.
 

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JoshMcD

New member
Jan 5, 2015
5
0
0
Waxahachie, Tx
The piece pictured is part of the feed back control system. Its what lets the control valve know what position the 3pt arms are at. The piece in question should move freely in the lift arm. You can try removing it and cleaning up the arm. Otherwise you should be able to get the part from your local Kubota dealer. Hope this helps!
 

Brettallen11

New member

Equipment
B3030
Jan 4, 2015
5
0
0
Longbranch, Washington
Thanks for the information. That's what I thought about it having to move. It is frozen right now and I need to press it out. Seems like a part like that should have a place to lubricate it, but it doesn't. Not sure what happened to make it freeze up like that.
 

Tooljunkie

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L1501,home built carry all, mini plow blade.
May 13, 2014
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Lac Du Bonnet, Manitoba,Canada
Looks fubar. If it was in my hands,would grind the beat up end off almost flush and drill out in small steps until it was gone. Then make my own new eylet/stud assembly. For some its much easier to buy new. To build my own= no wait time.
There is no other way, as its soft and pounded tight like a rivet on a chevy ball joint.
 

Diydave

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L2202 tractor, L185f tractor
Oct 31, 2013
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Gambrills, MD USA
Looks fubar. If it was in my hands,would grind the beat up end off almost flush and drill out in small steps until it was gone. Then make my own new eylet/stud assembly. For some its much easier to buy new. To build my own= no wait time.
There is no other way, as its soft and pounded tight like a rivet on a chevy ball joint.
If it were mine, I'd grind it off, as you say, but after grinding, try this first: take a beeswax candle, and hold it to the ground off end, and the other side, so that the wax melts into the joint, on both sides. Then take an adjustable wrench, and try twisting back and forth on the clevis side. You just might get it to start moving. Once it moves, spray some penetrating oil like Kroil (my favorite), or PB blaster on the stem, get it nice and lubed, and punch it out.:D
 

Brettallen11

New member

Equipment
B3030
Jan 4, 2015
5
0
0
Longbranch, Washington
Sounds like a good plan on both parts. I did try using the Kroil penetrating oil and it moved a little. I like both your ideas and will see what I can do. I will report back, although fabrication is not within my current capabilities. The pin is brass, too.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
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Sandpoint, ID
Just grind or cut off the flared out end and use a draft punch to get it out. ;)
 

Tooljunkie

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L1501,home built carry all, mini plow blade.
May 13, 2014
4,150
33
48
60
Lac Du Bonnet, Manitoba,Canada
If you did have it moving,see if you can push it the other way far enough to maybe file the offending area to slip out. Brass-easy to drill.i have centre drilled pins,not all the way through, then use a small drift punch in bottom of hole to drive out. Usually wont expand pin.
 
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