3-point hitch basics

[Kubota Newbie]

If using a moldboard plow they must be loose so it will center properly. Most other things, user preference. For me: rear blade and slip scoop - snug, bale spear - almost snug, three point hay tedder - loose, and three point plow and disk loose.
But hey, I grew up on fast-hitch tractors so what do I know about the Ferguson system.

 

[armylifer]

I see a lot of varying opinions, probably based on experience of those offering their opinion. I expressed my opinion based on my experience, my tractor, and the equipment that I use. Take it for what it is worth to you.

I have long ago found that using my Harbor Freight Quick Hitch eliminates having to adjust any implements that I use with it, other than the first time that I fit the implement to the Quick Hitch.

 

[Wiseclam]

My B2650 operator's manual has a section that describes when to use the oval holes on the stabilizers to allow for play on certain listed implement types. The sway looseness needed depends on the implement, some need serious play. Listed are a few, like moldboard plow, disc plow, subsoiler...

Not sure if your BX23s has the Hydraulic Control Unit Use Reference Chart in its manual, I'll take a screenshot of the chart in B2650 manual.

Note the Telescopic Stabilizers column...

EDIT I noticed the [B3350SU] sections have stabilizers (link arms?) that look like your BX2506 kit?

View attachment 123120

This is extremely helpful in that it shows a clear example of where "loose" and "tight" link arms are appropriate.

 

[Wiseclam]

As stated by some others; 3-point side to side sway is determined by the implement that you are using on the 3-point. Generally, you WANT swing. Lots of it.

Respectfully, tail wagging the dog is miniscule compared to ground forces applied to sway bar links.


Please remember this:

If you have a rear implement in float, and make a tight turn, the weight and power of the tractor in a turn and the weight of the implement, and ground forces of all of it, is transferred to your sway links. Directly to your sway links! The tighter they are, the worse it is.

As a general rule, keep your links loose, or tight enough, to keep them off of your rear tires. That's it. Let it swing. Let it be free between your rear tires. The rest is experience, knowledge, and implement specific.

My rear implements generally swing a few inches left or right. Bottom line... Ya just gotta keep them off of the rear tires. If I were running it tight, (Ha! I never do) I'd lift the 3 point in tighter turns.

I don't run rear mowers with wheels. Never have.... but that could be different.

Thanks. Super helpful. I think I lucked out and kept my box blade pretty loose on first use which was grading a relatively tough/packed gravel driveway, about 1000 feet in length. It was only after this first use that I wondered if I was even using the hitch properly. I can find dozens of YouTube videos on how to best use a box blade on a gravel driveway. I could not find anything about 3-point hitch adjustments. This thread is obviously a great resource for that, now.

Thanks again.

 

[Wiseclam]

I see a lot of varying opinions, probably based on experience of those offering their opinion. I expressed my opinion based on my experience, my tractor, and the equipment that I use. Take it for what it is worth to you.

I have long ago found that using my Harbor Freight Quick Hitch eliminates having to adjust any implements that I use with it, other than the first time that I fit the implement to the Quick Hitch.

Yes... a quick hitch is something I am thinking about as well.