I'm new to the 3-Point Hitch world, but why does only the right side (Passenger) have an adjustment turnbuckle on the lift arm?
3-Point Hitch Adjustment Turnbuckle
- Thread starter TheShadyKubota
- Start date
I'm assuming that it gives you the option of tilting the implement left or right on the 3 point.
I guess that would make sense.. I guess sometimes one overthinks the simple things in life
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Equipment
l3301, fel, lp boxblade, 12" lp auger, lp bush hog, z421 zt, lawnvac leaf vac
Sometimes you may wish to use an implement such as a box blade for cutting a shallow ditch instead of leveling stuff. The turnbuckle gives you that option.
I feel like there is a lot more you can do with a box blade then the typical levelling function.
Back in the days of yore, the moldboard plow was king of the farm. They throw to the right and the right side tyres would work in the furrow. The right side 3PH turnbuckle would be adjusted shorter so the plow would run level with grade while the tractor was tilted in the furrow. Also makes leveling of other implements easier.
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Don't know why both sides aren't adjustable. Probably comes down to $. The adjustable one costs more, and one will do the job.
Rekindling this thread, as I've worked a box blade for a gazillion hours behind both a BX25 and BX23s, spreading countless yards of material and fixing plenty of road and driveway.
I'm about going out of my mind maintaining our steep, rolling road w/o being able to tilt both directions. There are times when you'll want to move material both ways, so I really need a solution to steeply racking both left and right. I reached out to the dealer I got the latest machine from, explaining what I'm after. I'm interested to hear what their answer is.
BTW, top link and side link adjustements, esp if you've got a box blade with forward and rearward curved blades, give an ASTOUNDING amount of capability. You just have to tweak things to "shift modes", as you go.
Anyone have a setup they like that "goes both ways"?
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I'm about going out of my mind maintaining our steep, rolling road w/o being able to tilt both directions. There are times when you'll want to move material both ways, so I really need a solution to steeply racking both left and right. I reached out to the dealer I got the latest machine from, explaining what I'm after. I'm interested to hear what their answer is.
BTW, top link and side link adjustements, esp if you've got a box blade with forward and rearward curved blades, give an ASTOUNDING amount of capability. You just have to tweak things to "shift modes", as you go.
Anyone have a setup they like that "goes both ways"?
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Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
You can add a second manually adjustable side link or you can add a hydraulic tilt cylinder to one side or to both sides.
See this thread post six for a picture of a tractor with two hydraulic cylinders
www.orangetractortalks.com
The cylinders can be designed with above and below level movement if you get them from a good vendor like FitRite Hydraulics.
See this thread post six for a picture of a tractor with two hydraulic cylinders
3 Point Hitch with Dual Cylinders
@Henro put in four remotes and two cylinders for his Top & Tilt, I'm thinking of two remotes and three cylinders... Having a tiny BX the Summit "tilt" cylinder has 2" of travel total, 13" to 15". Can I add a second cylinder on the other side and plumb: tilt_valve A to cylinder #1 A cylinder #1...
www.orangetractortalks.com
The cylinders can be designed with above and below level movement if you get them from a good vendor like FitRite Hydraulics.
Your setup should have that capability. Generally, the adjustable side link can be adjusted longer or shorter than the fixed length side link. This gives you the option to tilt the implement to the left or to the right.
Is your set up somehow different?
edit: In my case, the reason I went with two tilt cylinders was I wanted to get a little more lift out of my three-point hitch while still having the same amount of tilt. Most people just use one hydraulic tilt cylinder that extends longer than the fixed length side link, or can be retracted shorter. Net result is the same as far as tilt goes.
Last edited:
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Not swearing it would work on a BX but when I got the hydraulic sidelink on the right side, I moved the manually adjustable link from the right side to the left side so, while not nearly convenient as the hydraulic tilt, I can adjust both left and right sidelinks. If I wanted adjustable links on both sides and didn’t want to put the $$ into a hydraulic sidelink I could have bought an additional adjustable link and put it on the left side to give me a manual adjustable on both sides. The Ford 9N my L replaced was set up that way to provide additional tilt capability.
One thing possibly worth noting: the fixed link on the left ONLY fits on the left (at least on the tractors I have experience with) because there’s a bit of an angle to the clevis on the bottom end. May not be obvious on some hitches but it becomes very obvious if you try to move it to the right side. The adjustable link will fit either side because you can swivel the bottom a half turn independent of the top half, so you can reverse that little bit of angle to fit either side.
Bottom line, if you get a hydraulic side link move the manual link to the left side. If you want a manual adjustable on both sides, take the manual off the right side, put it on the left side to make sure it will fit, and if it does buy another manual adjustable sidelink just like the one you already have.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more