Been reading folks using ballast box on back of their tractor for ballast. My BX1880 is fairly small so thinking of a 3 point back blade for ballast. Is anyone using a back blade for ballast? Only time I think I will need ballast is in the winter when plowing. The snow pusher I ordered is 300 lbs. The rear blade I have been looking at are around 170 lbs. for a 4 foot and a little over 200 lbs for a 5 foot.
3 point back blade ?
- Thread starter Bearcatrp
- Start date
Tropical Jack
Active member
Equipment
Kubota L3301 w/ FEL & BH, tilt and trim, chipper, box blade, grading blade
I use my box blade for ballast. It is very heavy, and does not stick too far back from my tractor. I think that a back blade could be used for ballast, especially if you added some weight to it (maybe a couple of chains?). It could also prove useful as another means of moving snow. Just have to be conscious of a little more length of implement behind you.
Jack
Jack
I don't think you need rear ballast, it would help if we knew if your rear tires are filled and with what. I only needed ballast with a full load of gravel. As for the snow pusher you will not be lifting it high(I am assuming) and the weight is close to the pins of the loader, If I did go with a rear blade I would go with the 5 footer(feeter?) as my old BX2370 handled it(now have an LX2610 and looking for a 7' back blade). What other actives do you do with your tractor? As a box blade would be heavier and useful for moving earth. Where in Minnesota are you?
Have turf tires with air only. No way I would lift the snow pusher more than a foot when moving. Have operated front end loaders years ago working for MnDot. Learned real quick to leave bucket close to ground until ready to dump. 5 foot blade would extrude beyond the tractor. My loader has a 4 foot bucket that stays within the tires. Probably go 4 foot and add chains or sand bags if needed. Thanks for the replies. It’s great you seasoned veterans help us new folks. Live by St Cloud.
jyoutz
Well-known member
Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
You always want a rear blade that is wider than your rear wheels. Otherwise when it’s angled it won’t cover your wheel tracks.
Biker1mike
Well-known member
Equipment
B6200, Kubota 2030 Front Blade, King Cutter 60" finishing deck
My tractor is even lighter than yours. I have never needed ballast when plowing snow. When my tires (ags) were rather bald I did use chains. The plow under carriage and blade put most of the weight to the front so your front tires will be doing a lot of the traction work.
If you need or want a back blade go and get one anyways.
A suitcase draw bar can also work and has multiple uses. It holds weights and a 2 inch receiver.
If you need or want a back blade go and get one anyways.
A suitcase draw bar can also work and has multiple uses. It holds weights and a 2 inch receiver.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
You may want to consider using a 'carryall' and a skid of weight.
Carryalls look like fixed width pallet forks, for the rear. EASY to put on, EASY to lift a skid. You put weight on a skid, back up, lift and go.... When you're done needing the ballast, you just lower the skid and off you go...
The problem with loaded tires or weights , is it's there 24/7 and if you don't need it, why have it. With the carryall/skid setup, you can 'dial in' the exact ballast you need..makes it easier on the machine.
might be an option for you ?
Carryalls look like fixed width pallet forks, for the rear. EASY to put on, EASY to lift a skid. You put weight on a skid, back up, lift and go.... When you're done needing the ballast, you just lower the skid and off you go...
The problem with loaded tires or weights , is it's there 24/7 and if you don't need it, why have it. With the carryall/skid setup, you can 'dial in' the exact ballast you need..makes it easier on the machine.
might be an option for you ?
I do it all the time when my BH is off. Not much ballast but better than nothing.
Was thinking that too. Saw a few online used but the price they are asking, can buy a new one for about same price.
Never heard of that. Can you post a link so I can see what your talking about?
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
If you go to Agrisupply.com you can see similar.
I have a set of Agri Supply 3pt. forks, and use them with a pallet, to add ballast.
The 3pt forks are very handy for other uses too.
Rear ballast is always an advantage with a front-end attachment. Loading of rears also help if NOT an issue with having the weight all the time. On my bx1870, my rear ags are loaded with WWF for snow plowing along with another 160# of suitcase weight. In summer I remove rear weight and change to not loaded turf tires for mowing. My setup.
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I've used a rear blade for ballast. Now this a Ford Dearborn maybe from the 50's? It works great for dirt and snow! It's all I ever need and fit the bill...
Last edited:
ajschnitzelbank
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L4701, BH92, Frost Bite grapple, Logosol M8 mill, Stihl MS661
A little ballet never hurts. And I’ve found with my B and my L that the front snow pusher isn’t always the best tool for the job, sometimes the back blade works better. For example, long runs you can use the back blade to just throw it to the side as you drive. On the lawn, the back blade backwards can be gentler and tear up less grass than the pusher (even when raised the shoes can rip up grass). The back blade is also better really cutting sometimes, like if you drive over the snow and it’s packed down and you wanna peel it up before it turns to ice.