2150 rotary tiller max practical size?

[BadDog]

Next year I want to start a garden, maybe a 1/4 acre max, probably less. I started thinking about this with the 7100, and that's still on the table, and I know the max practical for it is about 48" or so. But now I bought a 2150 because it came with a backhoe (kit), so should I run across things, I would like to know how much wider that range just got. I won't need it before fall at the earliest, so just wanted to know what to consider or reject when/if things come along. Any suggestions much appreciated.

 

[skeets]

MHO,, the 48 incher is about it, you are running 18 or 20 hp at the PTO depending on type or drive, your rear is like 44 1/2 inches wide and with that tiller you will be doing everything you need to do,, you live in Az so Im thinking its rocky and sand, so going much wider you will again, in MHO, be over taxing the tractor.

 

[lsmurphy]

You'll find that a 7100 runs a 4' tiller nicely.

Also, you won't make up that much more time with a 5'.........I have a large garden too...........what's another 20 minutes?

 

[BadDog]

You'll find that a 7100 runs a 4' tiller nicely.

Also, you won't make up that much more time with a 5'.........I have a large garden too...........what's another 20 minutes?

The reason I asked is that this is no real farm community anywhere near here, and the 4' tillers are hard to find, plus they carry a large premium when they do turn up (in pretty much any condition). Before I got the 2150 I did run across a 5' that seemed a much better value than anything else I had seen, but I knew it was too big, so never considered it. Now that I have the 2150 (and may sell the 7100), if a good deal comes along again on a 5', I was wondering if it was worth considering.

As skeets mentioned, the 2150 is listed on tractor data as 24 HP and 20 HP at the PTO (gear). Sounds like the answer is that I need to stick with 4'.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Stay with the 4 foot, and that's even going to work your tractor, at least until you get the soil conditioned.

As a former resident (21 years) in Phoenix, Good luck growing anything!
It's too hot 90% of the time to get anything to grow the right way.
I traded it for the opposite, it's almost too cold up here for a good garden.
You have to start a lot of plants in a green house (hot house) and then move them to the garden.

If you going to do it, do it right and get a lot of gypsum and compost or manure to prep the soil. There are several places down there to get truck loads hauled in.
Use automatic soaker hoses, Not sprinklers, as the sprinklers will burn the leaves of the plants. Also set up a sun cover for it to keep from burning the tender leaves when it gets real hot (Like it doesn't get too hot there).

 

[BadDog]

Also set up a sun cover for it to keep from burning the tender leaves when it gets real hot (Like it doesn't get too hot there).

No idea what your talking about, today is only getting up to 106 or so, almost 14 degrees less than last week. It's down right chilly, gonna have to find my jacket if this keeps up...

PO before the PO of this "horse property" apparently had the back lot and back yard in grass, probably for horses. LOTS of abandoned sprinkler heads and lines. Looks like they had a lot of work done either conditioning the soil, or brining in a bunch. In the area I am considering for a garden, you don't hit hard caliche until you get down about 14" or so. Of course my plan was to break it deeper, as well as work in gypsum to keep it loose (stuff is like magic) and organic material. I've got tomatoes that were growing fairly well under a repurposed redwood gazebo, until we hit about 115 for a few days, then they just gave up. And for irrigation, the plan is dedicated drip irrigation on automatic controllers, but with poly line distribution manifolds so it can be extracted and rolled up for major soil work. Not planning on a huge garden, just a few things that are fairly suited to the climate. I've also put in a full orchard with Apple, Peach, Pear, Nectarine, and several citrus; all varieties grown specifically for this climate. So far all are doing well except the Pear. It's hurting, but I think it will make it and be fine after it gets through the first Summer.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You have an excellent handle of the situation and the "tools" needed to pull it off!

If I remember right the Pears like a little different PH of soil then a lot of the other trees. Check on that and you can put in tree spikes to adjust the PH around it and help it along.

Worked in Phoenix attic's that were 180+ degrees, Air Conditioning hose attached to a Kevlar suit to survive, still coming out with boots filled with sweat.
Then Idaho, -20 degrees with wind chill well below that, working blowing snow off the driveway and road, Several layers of clothes, boots, gloves, hat, scarf, coat and a shot of antifreeze (bourbon) every now and then just to keep warm!

It's incredible what abuse the body will take.

 

[Bulldog]

I tend to agree with the others and want to say 48" is about it but it really depends on the tiller. I have a 62" Bushhog brand tiller and my brother had a 48" King Kutter. The 48" was harder to pull than my 62" was. His B7500 would run my tiller as good as it did his but don't let me talk you into something that doesn't work. To be on the safe side I think 48" is the best choice.

 

[Smoke-em]

I have a 1999 B2150,and I bought a Caroni 56 inch tillovator. I works perfect!

http://www.agrisupply.com/tillovator-width-chain-driven/p/30840/&sid=&eid=/

 

[BadDog]

Thanks for all the information, now to find something affordable...