2014 RTV 1140CPX New Project for Restoration - PART 2

[Nicksacco]

This is a continuation of this thread:

2014 RTV-1140CPX New Project for Restoration Part 1

Since the L35 TLB is complete and working, I decided I needed another restoration project. I needed something that could haul tools, lumber, dirt and whatever around the place. I started looking at golf carts - no. Then JD Gators - no. They won't do. Then I looked at what Kubota was offering...

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I knew this thread would get long, so here is more work done on the RTV now in Part 2.


The work has been coming along and I've gotten the absolute worst of it done - the cleanup and prep.

Always tough with neglected machinery due to rust, abuse and general malaise toward maintenance.

The following are some photos with some details as I give this machine a good going over.

FRONT AXLE CASES:

They have been cleaned, blasted and now powdercoated. I found some charcoal grey that is a pretty close color to the Kubota Dark Grey.

This next set comprises the Rear Axle, Axle Shafts, Bearings and Seals

The Axle is pretty heavy, but can be easily moved by one person - it's a clumsy weight.

Here it is being scrubbed - all the mud and grit removed for paint prep - bearings and seals removed.

Seals, Spacers and Bearings - the outside seals are noted. They were in really bad shape and NOT meant to be 3 pieces!

There was one bad bearing (gritty feeling when rotated).

Axle shafts, Spring hangars, Shock Mounts, Shock and Spring Hanger Brackets.

Note one hub has been blasted in the photo

Closeup of one of the seals - note the multiple sealing surfaces.

This is a view of the Axle Shaft bearings and seals and spacer laid out in order of assembly.
The wheel hub would be on the right.

The Axle Shafts connect to the transmission with another set of Ujoints - the design is that the spline on the bottom LEFT engages with the transmission shaft and is protected by a boot.

Dropping the axle allows the transmission shafts (Left and Right) to separate from the Axle Shafts (Left and Right)

More Parts on the way....

 

[DustyRusty]

I noticed in one of the pictures in part 1 you are using an induction heater. I am tackling a similar type of project and was wondering how well the induction heater worked with rusted bolts. I am thinking of investing in one to help to disassemble some very rusty parts. thanks

 

[Nicksacco]

I noticed in one of the pictures in part 1 you are using an induction heater. I am tackling a similar type of project and was wondering how well the induction heater worked with rusted bolts. I am thinking of investing in one to help to disassemble some very rusty parts. thanks

The induction heater is the favorite tool here at Restoration Central!
It's a very concentrated heat and will get a bolt red hot anywhere from 30 sec to 2 min depending upon the size.
I don't use a torch much because I can't really control it - I use it for large pieces usually not on a vehicle.

The heater I have does get warm and it will thermally shut off if hot until it cools again.
I think it should have had a switch for just the internal fan.
I use a vacuum cleaner to pull air through it and that works great.

Here's a trick; clean off as much of the threads as you can before attempting to remove the bolt. Dirty threads (whether dirt or rust) will just make the job harder.

 

[DustyRusty]

I was taught to tighten the bolt a little to see if it will move. If it doesn't tighten then be very careful when trying to loosen it. If it starts to move, then loosen 1/4 turn and tighten 1/2 turn so the rust doesn't jam up the threads. Keep repeating till the bolt comes off easily, and use lots of penetrant/lubricant.

 

[Nicksacco]

CONTINUATION - Let's Keep Moving! - August 13, 2024


Still moving along with this restoration and guess what? It's taken longer than anticipated - Shocker, I know!

Today we're looking at the Rear Axle and associated shafts (Axle Shafts and Transmission Shafts).
I had to replace a U-Joint and so "while in there" I conceded to remove more stuff, clean that up and make it "new" again.

I decided to strip the axle and repaint.
I cleaned up the bearing and seal surfaces reinstall after painting would go easier.

For the Axle: Next will be the installation of the seals for the axle shafts followed by the axle shafts.
Should be fairly easy since all is cleaned up.

Below is the Transmission Shaft cleanup and Ujoint replacement. Lots of rust to remove (blasted) and a nice coat of paint to prevent further rust plus a new Ujoint!

You need to drain most of the transmission fluid (about 3 gallons total) otherwise removing the propeller shafts will cause oil to flow out and make a mess.

Yeah - I bit the bullet and purchased 7 gallons of SUDT - ouch.

Remove all 4 of the Ujoint retaining clips.
You can use a press or a Ball Joint removal tool.
But don't accidentally bend the yoke trying get the rusty thing out.
I did, and I had to straighten it out again - what a pain.

To remove the seal (under the metal cover - first remove the retaining ring and with a couple of taps on the spline with a hammer, the bearing will pop right off.

Putting the shaft back together is easy - lubricate the seal and shafts.

I used a piece of steel tubing to press the bearing back onto the shaft and replaced the retaining ring. Job done.

Next was cleaning and painting the leaf springs and mounts.

That's it for this segment.

 

[Nicksacco]

Part 3 can be found here

2014 RTV-1140CPX New Project for Restoration-PART 3

This is a continuation of the RTV restoration. Part 2 can be found below. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/2014-rtv-1140cpx-new-project-for-restoration-part-2.70268/ CONTINUATION - Front and Rear Suspension and Hydraulics Here are some photos of the project as of today...

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