Hello, soooo glad I found this orange tractor talks, I only have 1 filter, changed hyd fluid and loader is moving slow, and also my steering sometimes moves sputteringly( if that's a word) noticed I might have screen tube filters some where. Any ideas?
2004 L3400 hydraulic oil filter screen location
- Thread starter J Hortense
- Start date
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Go to Kubota USA dot com
Get to the illustrated parts list and agree to the terms
Search for your tractor model and then look into the hydraulic system or transmission case area to see if there is a screen that you can clean or replace
Get to the illustrated parts list and agree to the terms
Search for your tractor model and then look into the hydraulic system or transmission case area to see if there is a screen that you can clean or replace
Saw your reply about the work shop manual, if I remember correctly, you just got your L3400... What transmission is in it? HST (hydrostatic) or is it a DT Model (manual / gear)? I think you said it was a 2004 which is the early production of that model. Very closely related to my tractor....
There is a 2" hydraulic return hose by your right foot, that old rubber was prone to cracking (under the paint). If that had not been replaced, squeeze it and you might see the cracks... replace it since what you described was a symptom of a cracked return hose which effects both the loader and the steering.
Since you said you had one hydraulic filter, I'm guessing you have a manual. The HST model has 2 filters that need to be replaced!!! One on each side... Also, knowing which model (HST or DT) there are other "issues" that you need to know about. Let us know what model you have... We'll be happy to help you!!!
There is a 2" hydraulic return hose by your right foot, that old rubber was prone to cracking (under the paint). If that had not been replaced, squeeze it and you might see the cracks... replace it since what you described was a symptom of a cracked return hose which effects both the loader and the steering.
Since you said you had one hydraulic filter, I'm guessing you have a manual. The HST model has 2 filters that need to be replaced!!! One on each side... Also, knowing which model (HST or DT) there are other "issues" that you need to know about. Let us know what model you have... We'll be happy to help you!!!
It is the DT manual. I will check the return hose next to right foot. I don't see any oil leaks except at my one filter. That is why I changed fluid and filter. I'm looking for maybe tube screens. Maybe under the hookups at the front loader, I see what the similar size is. Not happy my old filter or new filter didn't have a magnetic ring. First tractor-really like it.
The area will not have any oil showing leaks (on the hose), what it does is it allows air into the system to mix with the hydraulic oil and causes stuff to be jerky (air compresses more than liquid). Again, squeeze the tube should show cracks. No cracks, it's been replaced (as it should have been a long time ago).
It's been a while, is the tube painted? if so, it's original and needs to be replaced. If it's black rubber, you should be fine. But check for cracks anyway.
Added photo of it...
It's been a while, is the tube painted? if so, it's original and needs to be replaced. If it's black rubber, you should be fine. But check for cracks anyway.
Added photo of it...
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Thanks again, I'm building a place up north and the tractor is there. I copied your picture, and I will check, I seem to believe it is the original hose. I will replace. Everything was working great then jerking starting. Need to get part # I will send pics
I can go on and on with some of the early problems. First generation always have "issues" that need to be worked out. There were many more on the HST model; Good news since you have the Manual (DT) version, you don't have the problem of the PTO cable kinking / breaking. Manual has the direct PTO lever by your foot.
The early version of the seat, it is a spring loaded suspension seat; but many were stuck and gave a rough ride. With lube and/or working it up and down to free the seat up... the ride isn't bad. If the seat doesn't move, you have a problem (just a heads up).
The early version of the seat, it is a spring loaded suspension seat; but many were stuck and gave a rough ride. With lube and/or working it up and down to free the seat up... the ride isn't bad. If the seat doesn't move, you have a problem (just a heads up).
Another one that should have been taken care of, is the sight glass for the hydraulic oil level... early ones cracked or leaked pretty bad after some use (vibration caused separation between the threaded part and the window part).
Thank You, when I got up north, I noticed the hose was painted. Then I saw the crack at the top. $35 for new hose and it's running fine. DT model with only 1 hydraulic filter, 620 hours. Trying to learn the technique of grading with box blade
. Bought a shop manual. Any other issues?
Dead give a way; was that it was painted... Other issues, Oh yea... I just re-read the thread and I already mentioned the other problems above. One that was not mention, the front drive axle was usually NOT filled up enough with oil. I would go ahead and replace that oil. I use gear oil others have used UTD...
These were mentioned above!?!!?
Early models, the sight glass on the side of the engine will crack (leak). Old one looks like a new one but with better
The seat should be a suspension seat but early one would lock up. Crow bar with penetrating oil to free it up.
Let me know if you have that problem, I have an old video on that...
These were mentioned above!?!!?
Early models, the sight glass on the side of the engine will crack (leak). Old one looks like a new one but with better
The seat should be a suspension seat but early one would lock up. Crow bar with penetrating oil to free it up.
Let me know if you have that problem, I have an old video on that...
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Grading with the box blade has everything to do with the length of the top link. The box blade has a front and rear blade. The front one, hangs lower. Even at a level side view, it's set to dig. Extending the top link to ride on the rear blade, helps to smooth things out.
It is NOT just about lifting up the 3 point hitch.
It takes practice. If you do a lot of grading, a hydraulic Top and Side links make it so much easier since you can change the angle of the box while still in the seat. Make a hydraulic adjustment, see how it changes what the box blade will do.
Manually adjusting the top link, takes time, energy and you have to get off the tractor!!
It is NOT just about lifting up the 3 point hitch.
It takes practice. If you do a lot of grading, a hydraulic Top and Side links make it so much easier since you can change the angle of the box while still in the seat. Make a hydraulic adjustment, see how it changes what the box blade will do.
Manually adjusting the top link, takes time, energy and you have to get off the tractor!!