1996 B2100 HST no forward or reverse

[TD BMX]

I bought a used 1996 B2100 HST as a project for my young teenagers and I to work on. This is our first tractor. We bought the tractor from a Kubota dealership and we knew the tractor was non-running when we bought it. The tractor would start up and run with no problem. However the tractor wouldn’t move forward or reverse. When you try to press the pedal to go forward or reverse, you can hear something with in the drive train spinning but the tractor does not move. The dealership said they thought it was a couplers that connects one of the driveshafts. They thought that the splines wore out one the coupler and were spinning freely.

We have split the tractor in several different areas and have checked all the couplers and they are all in good working condition. when draining and splitting the tractor I did find there were a decent amount of metal shavings.

does anyone have any recommendations on what to check next?

 

[Shadetree605]

I bought a used 1996 B2100 HST as a project for my young teenagers and I to work on. This is our first tractor. We bought the tractor from a Kubota dealership and we knew the tractor was non-running when we bought it. The tractor would start up and run with no problem. However the tractor wouldn’t move forward or reverse. When you try to press the pedal to go forward or reverse, you can hear something with in the drive train spinning but the tractor does not move. The dealership said they thought it was a couplers that connects one of the driveshafts. They thought that the splines wore out one the coupler and were spinning freely.

We have split the tractor in several different areas and have checked all the couplers and they are all in good working condition. when draining and splitting the tractor I did find there were a decent amount of metal shavings.

does anyone have any recommendations on what to check next?

yes sir..i can tell you where, and what to look at !..lol. got myself a b2100 hst myself...knew it would not move before i bought it. long story short for now..the hydro tranny is toast in your rear end at the front. NO..IT WILL NOT BE CHEAP TO TO REPLACE PARTS !. it cost me about 2600 bucks to buy all new parts to rebuild mine. here is mine torn down, waiting on parts to come in.

 

[Shadetree605]

on a side note TD , its almost like you have my tractor when i got it home ?!..lol everything you posted is the very same thing i am going through.

 

[Shadetree605]

when you get the hydro tranny off the rear front ?, torn down ?, expect to see this kinda damage !. the first picture..that looks like a revolver ?, that part is about 1k in cost ?, mine was shot, one of the springs that pushes the piston was broken off, and worked its way around inside the hyrdo area..really made a mess inside there.

 

[TD BMX]

when you get the hydro tranny off the rear front ?, torn down ?, expect to see this kinda damage !. the first picture..that looks like a revolver ?, that part is about 1k in cost ?, mine was shot, one of the springs that pushes the piston was broken off, and worked its way around inside the hyrdo area..really made a mess inside there.

Ugh…this looks like it’s going to be fun. I will have to tear into what you suggested next.

 

[Shadetree605]

Ugh…this looks like it’s going to be fun. I will have to tear into what you suggested next.

yes..that is where your problem is..i'll bank on it !. i did not even post all the damage pics...i got plenty more if you want to see them ?.

 

[Shadetree605]

word of caution !!!. the primer pump that the drive shaft first goes into ?, there is a spacer that attaches to it, IT IS DISCONTINUED FROM KUBOTA !. if your's is damaged , scared ?, the only fix is do what i did, take some jb weld, lay a flat bead across the grooves, fill in the gaps, let it dry, then CAREFULLY !!, sand down the outer part to make it smooth again. i do not know yet if this will work ?, i will not know until i get mine all back together.

 

[TD BMX]

Thank you for the heads up. I will hopefully have sometime tonight to dig into it. I know it will be worth it in the end but right now this tractor has me a bit frustrated. I'll be reaching out to you for sure if I find that I have the same issue. I think you might be right. I have tore everything apart (transmission case, rear differential case and separated at the clutch housing) and have not seen any sign of significant damage that would line up with the amount of metal shavings found in the fluid/ metal screen on the filter. I guess on a positive note, I was able to clean out the metal shavings really well since everything was tore about. I have been working on and off for about a month and I'm ready to start using this tractor now that we finally have some decent weather in Michigan.

 

[Shadetree605]

Thank you for the heads up. I will hopefully have sometime tonight to dig into it. I know it will be worth it in the end but right now this tractor has me a bit frustrated. I'll be reaching out to you for sure if I find that I have the same issue. I think you might be right. I have tore everything apart (transmission case, rear differential case and separated at the clutch housing) and have not seen any sign of significant damage that would line up with the amount of metal shavings found in the fluid/ metal screen on the filter. I guess on a positive note, I was able to clean out the metal shavings really well since everything was tore about. I have been working on and off for about a month and I'm ready to start using this tractor now that we finally have some decent weather in Michigan.

you are welcome. once you get the hydro tranny off the rear front where the drive shaft goes into ?, get that unbolted with the 5/6 allen head bolts from one side, it will pop apart, then you get to see how bad the damage is inside ?. what i discovered wrong on mine was, one cylinder pump was trashed, swash plate trashed, primer pump trashed, swash plate bearings that sit under it broken, thrush plates trashed, list goes on an on. when i drained the hydro oil from removing the metal filter screen at right rear tire side off the transaxle, it was full of metal shavings, and the hydro oil was full of metal flakes. i knew right then and there the hyrdo system was bad. be warned !!!. right side of hydro ( sitting in seat ) there is a lever that attaches to the hydro direction arm to work the swash plate, this lever MUST be unbolted BEFORE you pull the frame off the hydro area !!..yeah..i found this out the hard way..lol. not sure if either of us can pm yet ?, but you are welcome to send me a pm, and we can exchange phone numbers to talk about this on the phone, if not ?, we'll just play it by ear here..lol.

 

[Shadetree605]

these sit under the swash plate, as you can see..one is broken, the other has a hair line crack...soon to break !. they were 75 bucks each from my dealer. again..for your sake, i hope yours is no where near the damage mine is in ?, it cost a ton of cash to buy my parts. the huge chunk of what looks like a iron plate that this bolts too ?, i did not replace it..i did not want to have a heart attack on price ?!. i chose to use the jb weld on the damaged area.

 

[Shadetree605]

another word of caution !!. i know you won't like what i am about to tell you ?, but it must be told !!. with all the metal shavings/flakes you found when you drained the hydro oil ?, you should be aware that these flakes will be all through the lines ??..THEY MUST BE FLUSHED OUT !!!. this means the cooler in front of the rad, the main pump, the power steering pump..EVERY LINE MUST BE FLUSHED !. if you do not do this ?, and you put all new parts back in, as soon as you crank it up..it will self distruct in a matter of sec's !!. yes..i know you are thinking...'' how do i get the rear end flushed "' ?..good question !..lol. i have not figured that one out myself..other than ripping the rear end apart ?..and i really do not want to do this !!. i'll flush it out the best i can , now that i have the front of the transaxle open..and roll with it.

 

[Shadetree605]

this is what you are removing , it will have the big cast iron plate bolted to it.

 

[TD BMX]

this is what you are removing , it will have the big cast iron plate bolted to it.

A year later and I finally got it all put back together with the new parts. I started it up today and it moves but very weak or not at all. It goes better in reverse than forward. Any thoughts?

 

[whitetiger]

A year later and I finally got it all put back together with the new parts. I started it up today and it moves but very weak or not at all. It goes better in reverse than forward. Any thoughts?

Well, to start with, what did you find had failed?

 

[TD BMX]

Well, to start with, what did you find had failed?

same problem as yours, looked almost identical. I replaced all bad parts but I didn’t replace any of the o-rings. Kicking myself. I have a decent leak coming from the clutch pipe. Wondering if I’m not building enough pressure or if the pump was bad too

 

[Shadetree605]

A year later and I finally got it all put back together with the new parts. I started it up today and it moves but very weak or not at all. It goes better in reverse than forward. Any thoughts?

is the hydro oil full ?, did you flush the whole hydraulic oil system ?, its posb air is in the system somewhere ?. also like you said, the pump itself could be bad ?. that tube that runs from the front to back inside the frame to the back , it sucks big time !!!, i had to pull mine apart about 5 times before i got that tube to not leak..whoever designed that design ?.NEEDS TO BE SLAPPED !..LOL.