1995 G1800 with RCK54-20 Mower Deck cutting height question...

[dragfan66]

I was given this machine last fall and spent all winter going through it mechanically.
I purchased an operator's manual and a shop manual for it to help me figure everything out.

My better half wanted the deck raised for 3-1/2" to 4" cutting height, so I have done that exactly as the shop manual indicates.

My concern is the front anti-scalp rollers have ground contact just sitting on my concrete floor.
It seems to me there should be some clearance on these, maybe 1/4" so they only hit the turf when necessary.

I am going to raise the rollers to the next set of holes, but I was wondering if someone had any other ideas.

 

[Tractor Gal]

While I don't know your particular model, it may require adjustment of the parallel linkage. That will lift the front of the mower. It took me some time to figure out what the manual was saying to do, but even though I'm not blonde, sometimes things just don't make sense!

After I made the adjustment, the cut is now level.

Tractor Gal

 

[dragfan66]

My front link is very close to spec. 15.3" is spec, and I read 15.25" + with a tape measure.

 

[dragfan66]

I moved the rollers up to the middle set of holes and now I have a bit of ground clearance.
The front link is supporting the weight as it should.

 

[DustyRusty]

The way that a local lawn mower shop would set up the decks was to measure the tip of the blade while the deck was at its highest point and make sure that both sides were equal.

 

[Tractor Gal]

When I was trying to adjust my MMM (RCK60B-22BX), the WM said to put the mower cut height to 2". Turn the blades so that the right blade is parallel to direction of travel. Measure the distance from the end of the blade to the ground...at both ends of the blade. If it is different, adjust the nuts on the front link. If the front of the blade is lower than the back of the blade, tighten the nuts lower nut on the front link. That will lift the front of the mower. If the situation is opposite, loosen the lock nuts and move the lower nut higher on the front link. Once you get the blade close to level (or actually level if you can) tighten the top nut down to lock the lower nut in place.

TG

 

[Tractor Gal]

I moved the rollers up to the middle set of holes and now I have a bit of ground clearance.
The front link is supporting the weight as it should.

What you have said makes sense but the front link ALSO lifts the front of the mower, I believe. As you tighten the nuts on the front link, you will be able to see the front of the mower lifting up. Hope it works for you!

TG

 

[dragfan66]

I took it to the farm this morning and picked up the landowner's old Exmark for service and repair.

My better half mowed about three acres with the G1800 and has no complaints.
That's a win in my book.

 

[Tractor Gal]

I took it to the farm this morning and picked up the landowner's old Exmark for service and repair.

My better half mowed about three acres with the G1800 and has no complaints.
That's a win in my book.

If both of you are happy, that's a definite win!

TG

 

[lugbolt]

The way that a local lawn mower shop would set up the decks was to measure the tip of the blade while the deck was at its highest point and make sure that both sides were equal.

which isn't exactly wrong, but not exactly right either

measure/adjust normally, but at cutting height. Mowers are not precision pieces of equipment (at least most of them aren't) so if you level it at highest setting, it often changes as the deck drops. Thus, set it at cutting height that the operator desires.

bad boy ZT's were notorious for this. If I set the level at 5" height and then drop the deck to 3", the front-rear bias was off by over an inch. Set it level at 3" and raise the deck to max, it'd be off an inch the other way. Poor geometry of the lift linkages.

G1800/1900/G2000, those mowers run the rear deck wheels on the ground all the time. That's how cutting height is adjusted-via the rear wheels. Adjust the front wheels so that they're about 1/4" off the ground at cutting height. Front hanger supports the weight of the mower. And with that being said, that front hanger, the frame, and the pins-are often worn because of having to support the weight all the time. I have had a bunch of these mowers and have had to do about all kinds of fixes on them over the years. My mom still runs one and over the winter I had to do the engine and weld up the frame where the front hanger sits because it was so worn that I ran out of adjustment. Same for the deck, holes were oblong. They're round now and was able to adjust the level such that it cuts as good as a new one.

 

[dragfan66]

which isn't exactly wrong, but not exactly right either

measure/adjust normally, but at cutting height. Mowers are not precision pieces of equipment (at least most of them aren't) so if you level it at highest setting, it often changes as the deck drops. Thus, set it at cutting height that the operator desires.

bad boy ZT's were notorious for this. If I set the level at 5" height and then drop the deck to 3", the front-rear bias was off by over an inch. Set it level at 3" and raise the deck to max, it'd be off an inch the other way. Poor geometry of the lift linkages.

G1800/1900/G2000, those mowers run the rear deck wheels on the ground all the time. That's how cutting height is adjusted-via the rear wheels. Adjust the front wheels so that they're about 1/4" off the ground at cutting height. Front hanger supports the weight of the mower. And with that being said, that front hanger, the frame, and the pins-are often worn because of having to support the weight all the time. I have had a bunch of these mowers and have had to do about all kinds of fixes on them over the years. My mom still runs one and over the winter I had to do the engine and weld up the frame where the front hanger sits because it was so worn that I ran out of adjustment. Same for the deck, holes were oblong. They're round now and was able to adjust the level such that it cuts as good as a new one.

My front link crossbar is worn probably about 3/16" where it attaches to the mower.
That explains why I had to raise the front wheels to the next position.
Next time I bring it home, I will get the tolerances tightened up on the front link.

This mower has been a long project just to bring it back to life. Now I can address the smaller issues as they arise.

Thank you everyone for your input.