1980 B-7100HST damage to transmission case

[Damolo]

Hello friends. I have a broken spot where the long pin that holds the two lower links for the 3-point hitch attaches to the transmission case. You can see in the pics that one side has broke free from the case. I've been told it will need to be taken apart (tranny case removed) in order to weld it correctly; clean and also w/o risk of heat damage to internal seals, etc. So I'm looking around right now to hire a mechanic to do this for me, but also considering doing it myself. How big of a job and will the entire tranny need to be removed or is it possible to remove only the rear half (differential case) ? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You don't want to Weld that, it's cast aluminum they do not weld easily or well.
You have to take everything from the bellhousing back off to open it all up.
It's not a real hard job if you have the space and mechanical skills.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I love welding, but I am not nearly good enough to tackle "cast aluminum".

I tried a to weld a cast iron frying pan one time, and that turned into a funny/sad/debacle of epic proportions.

Needless to say, there is one less of "Grannys antique cast iron pans" left in this world.

I know there are guys that have some crazy "mad skills" and your going to need to find someone just like that, cause from what I know, it ain't easy, that's for sure.

 

[Mountainman]

Hello friends. I have a broken spot where the long pin that holds the two lower links for the 3-point hitch attaches to the transmission case. You can see in the pics that one side has broke free from the case. I've been told it will need to be taken apart (tranny case removed) in order to weld it correctly; clean and also w/o risk of heat damage to internal seals, etc. So I'm looking around right now to hire a mechanic to do this for me, but also considering doing it myself. How big of a job and will the entire tranny need to be removed or is it possible to remove only the rear half (differential case) ? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I have several good differential cases here in northeast Alabama. Happy to help.

 

[Damolo]

You don't want to Weld that, it's cast aluminum they do not weld easily or well.
You have to take everything from the bellhousing back off to open it all up.
It's not a real hard job if you have the space and mechanical skills.

Thank you, much obliged!

 

[Damolo]

I love welding, but I am not nearly good enough to tackle "cast aluminum".

I tried a to weld a cast iron frying pan one time, and that turned into a funny/sad/debacle of epic proportions.

Needless to say, there is one less of "Grannys antique cast iron pans" left in this world.

I know there are guys that have some crazy "mad skills" and your going to need to find someone just like that, cause from what I know, it ain't easy, that's for sure.

Thank you very much...looks like I'm in the market for a replacement differential. Sorry 'bout Granny's frying pan!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

While a professional 'aluminum certified' welder could do it, another case would probably be a better idea. Welder might spend a DAY doing it, gotta get ALL the oil out. Welding 'virgin' aluminum is easy relative to 'oil/grease' soaked aluminum....

FWIW, I'd fab up two 'helper support plates', 1/4" thick, that bolt into the 3 bolts vertically above the 'tab'. They would add a lot of strength to the unit.
I suspect whatever was on the 3ph 'shocked' the tab and that's why it broke ?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

FWIW, I'd fab up two 'helper support plates', 1/4" thick, that bolt into the 3 bolts vertically above the 'tab'. They would add a lot of strength to the unit.
I suspect whatever was on the 3ph 'shocked' the tab and that's why it broke ?

@GreensvilleJay I suggest you you go back and look that the picture closer, the reason it broke is staring you right in the face!
What is it?
No extra support is needed on these they are incredibly strong if used right.

 

[Tarmy]

@GreensvilleJay I suggest you you go back and look that the picture closer, the reason it broke is staring you right in the face!
What is it?
No extra support is needed on these they are incredibly strong if used right.

Please educate me….what are you referring to? Thanks.

 

[Bisleybob]

OP has threaded rod in place of a pin, looks like it's been tightened up, side loading the ears on the case. There should be free play there

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

OP has threaded rod in place of a pin, looks like it's been tightened up, side loading the ears on the case. There should be free play there

And we have a winner!
I would also bet that rod is not the right diameter either.

 

[Damolo]

OP has threaded rod in place of a pin, looks like it's been tightened up, side loading the ears on the case. There should be free play there

Yep, good eye. I'd been using it with the threaded rod for 15 years, never noticed the side loading. Stupid me. So there was that. Then I was pulling a heavy trailer with the hitch--apparently the bolts were loose and the hitch moved allowing the shock to the already side loaded tab.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yep, good eye. I'd been using it with the threaded rod for 15 years, never noticed the side loading. Stupid me. So there was that. Then I was pulling a heavy trailer with the hitch--apparently the bolts were loose and the hitch moved allowing the shock to the already side loaded tab.

Hey no judgement here, we sometimes just do what we have to do, to get by.
Just have Daryl send you the bar too.

 

[Damolo]

Hey no judgement here, we sometimes just do what we have to do, to get by.
Just have Daryl send you the bar too.

Yes, good idea--Btw what is the diameter of the stock bar? Thanks again for your help!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes, good idea--Btw what is the diameter of the stock bar? Thanks again for your help!

Maybe Daryl can get you the size my B is currently under 3 foot of snow.