15W-30, Diesel oil...

Racer X

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North Idaho Wolfman

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Yea I would never even consider a 15W-30 in a hot location! :eek:
 

G.rid

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I used to change to 15w30 in the winter in one of my 5.9 Cummins. It was just easier starting when it dropped to -20 to -25 celcius. It tried synthetic once as well, hard to justify $120 for an oil change.

Now that I'm out east, -10 to -15 is the worst we see. I stick to 15w40 I. The truck and tractor. Only had to plug the tractor in once but that's because the battery is getting weak.
 

dlundblad

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I bought a couple gallons of the stuff at Oreilly last fall for about $6 a gallon and am now using it in my gas truck. That said, I believe they no longer carry it so it may be hard to find.

They developed the stuff to be shear stable for vehicles that see a lot of idling, on and off's etc. (UPS trucks.) I don't think we'd see any benefit in going out of our way to run this in a tractor.

It does carry a lot of the approvals a 15w40 would so you should be fine, but I guess I don't see the benefit.
 

85Hokie

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Just spotted 15W-30 (no, not a typo, 30) diesel oil from Chevron Delo...

http://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_US/products/products/Delo_400_SD_SAE_15W-30.html

If your in Florida or Texas, or another hot area, this may be worth considering...
Matt,

be careful about the "oils" .......

make sure we understand what the terms mean, and no - I am not trying to be ugly:) - but way too many people in the real world do not understand those two numbers (and tractor/car/truck people too).

FOR example - there are those THAT STILL put 30 weight oil in there 50 year old tractor - BECAUSE that's what WAS available then and that is what was called for.....

Here in Virginia - we can get in the single digits and the triple digits, we need a multi viscosity oil that can start up easily and then protect as the machine is sweltering in the 95% humidity and 95d temps.


In very basic terms the first is the viscosity of the oil at a certain temperature, and the lower the # the easier it is to pump/flow. So a 5 will pour better in the cold than a 15 and so on WHEN cold. Now - there is a problem there, as the temps start to rise....the oil will flow too fast and then will not provide the "cushion" between the surfaces and the pressure will drop too!

SO - in the old days, you HAD to change the oils - low number in winter and then higher in summer, as the summer blend heated up, because it was a thicker base, it would not thin out as fast as a winter blend would in the summer.

SO - man being the smart sumbeauches they are - found a way to make a oil "thicken" as it gets hotter.......now there is a real trick! Make an oil behave like a thicker oil AS IS gets hotter!!!!! SO - the multi viscosity was invented. AND in the olden days - you could have 20-50, 10-30 and so on....

NOW - those little chemists in the back row are making oils that pour like water and can protect like 80 weight oil!!!! OK - aint quite there yet, but you get the idea!

The "newest" oils on the market are those that flow reallllll easy! and have a lot less friction involved when being pumped and placed in between tight fitting areas. The typical oil for new cars is 0w20......flows like 0 weight, protects like 20 weight when hot. They do that for many reasons, gas mileage is the main reason.

here is a great site that explains "oils" and viscosity in layman's terms.

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

oils in the future will spread the spectrum further, hell there might even have little machines that are IN the oil that somehow fix places that have been damaged - and only when the little nanites are broken down will you change the oil!:D:)

then again ....man wont be driving then ......damn cars will be driving and FIXING themselves!:eek::)
 

BX23S-1

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85Hokie, i wish i had a car that could fix itself... i just simply hate dealerships. Nothin worse than picking up your car after they worked on it and its worse than when it went in. Is it the same way in tractor dealerships...??? Reason i ask is, car dealerships are all about profit, they dont care what kind of oil they put in your engine. I know of TWO dealerships that buy re-conditioned oil and put it in brand new cars at their shops. I would hope tractor shops dont practice those methods.
 

mattwithcats

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Just remember there is the older formula CJ oil, and the new CK formula...
The CJ has a better additive pack, but contains things like phosphorus which can poison Catalytic Converters and Diesel Particulate Filters...

You missed out on the AutoZone Shell Rotella T5 10W-30 (older CJ version) sale, $15 for 2 1/2 gallons.

I used a $5 off $30 purchase, and there was a $12.50 a jug rebate.

Total was $1.50 in sales tax for two jugs, 5 gallons...
 

Bulldog

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then again ....man wont be driving then ......damn cars will be driving and FIXING themselves!:eek::)
Funny you say that, back in 02 one of the plants I worked at was partners with Cat doing a test program. Entire new fleet of Cat equipment from the skid steer to the water truck. The equipment would order it's own parts and schedule it's own mechanic. Still had to be driven but that was pretty close to being it's on boss.
 

beaterboss

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Ok...As the owner of a new L2501, with 20 hours on it...I am curious as to what oil to use. I was GOING to use Mobil 1 Synthetic, but heard that it doesn't have the additives in it for Diesel engines...Scrap that idea. (Although, I did use Amsoil 10-30 in my 2005 Mahindra 2015, and had no issues after 700 hours I might add. The guy who bought it off me in 2008 uses the same oil, and has over 3000 hours on it now...)

I am now considering Shell Rotella T6/ 5-40. Does anyone see a problem with this? Operating conditions are thus:

1) Used very little in Summer months. A little Landscape touch up's here and there but no heavy work.

2) Used mostly in Winter for Snow removal. Temperatures here range from -40F to +40F. Normal temps are -20F to +10F. I don't work it hard, rarely at full throttle during snow removal operations.

Any recommendations on oil? I have heard a lot of good things about the Rotella T6, and I really want to stick with a Synthetic oil. Problem is that, I wont even be putting 100 hours a year on the tractor. I may change it regardless of hours every Fall and Spring anyway. :confused:
 
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Bulldog

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M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
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Any recommendations on oil? I have heard a lot of good things about the Rotella T6, and I really want to stick with a Synthetic oil. Problem is that, I wont even be putting 100 hours a year on the tractor. I may change it regardless of hours every Fall and Spring anyway. :confused:
I recommend Amsoil 5w30 heavy duty diesel oil. I run it in all my Kubotas and even though it's higher it will pay for itself in fuel savings alone. It's rated fluid pour point down to -53F so it will work great in the cold. 3x extended drain capable up to 600 hrs or 1 year which ever comes first.

Last few years mine get several hundred hrs and I change oil once per year. Not that the T6 won't work but it won't give you the performance and protection that Amsoil will give you.
 

85Hokie

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Oh no, here we go again with another oil debate.
Nawwww.......we dont need to do that !!!! :D:D:)

Oil is OIL - that sticky, slimey stuff that gets ALL over you when you change it!!:)