1100 pound counterweight for LX2610 ?

[mrrlyoung]

I made a 3-pt counterweight out of a steel barrel filled with concrete that weights maybe 1100 pounds. That's may be half the lift capacity of the 3-pt hitch, as far as I can discern. Should be OK??

 

[GreensvilleJay]

You'll probably have to try to find out. I don't think there's any 'rule' as to how much weight you actually need as it'd depend on tractor, rear tires, wheel weight(bolted or fluid..), weight of loader and material being transported.
I know for my snow rider, I just kept adding steel to the rear until the machine performed the way I wanted it to.

 

[mrrlyoung]

My primary concern at this point is that it is not too heavy for the hitch and that it might do damage. It will be used when running a snowblower on the front. We'll remove the backhoe for the winter

 

[old and tired]

The backhoe is ideal counter weight in the winter... not sure why you would remove it. Could also be used to rescue yourself if you slip over an edge.

 

[mrrlyoung]

Inexperienced tractor drivers around a lot of parked cars. The counterweight makes the whole thing shorter.

 

[DustyRusty]

AI Overview


A 55-gallon drum filled with concrete can weigh around 1,140 pounds. Concrete is about 2.4 times heavier than water by volume, so a cubic foot of concrete weighs about 148 pounds, compared to 62.4 pounds for water. A 55-gallon drum can hold about 7–8 bags of concrete mix, assuming each bag weighs 80 pounds, but the exact weight may vary depending on the density and volume of the concrete mix.

Henro said to use AI for questions!

 

[mrrlyoung]

I pretty much know how much it weighs, and it's over many of the recommendations I see. Hence my double checking that it's not too heavy re. damage.

 

[jyoutz]

If it doesn’t exceed your 3ph capacity, you will be fine. The barrel probably doesn’t extend too far behind like a rotary cutter or rear blade.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

If you start to lose steering, that’s an indicator it’s too much. (May need to back up grades if it’s too much)

 

[mrrlyoung]

Thank you.

 

[NCL4701]

I pretty much know how much it weighs, and it's over many of the recommendations I see. Hence my double checking that it's not too heavy re. damage.

There’s no reasonable way to recommend an exact weight for a counterweight. It depends on a long list of variables and honestly isn’t worthwhile to try to engineer perfection, mostly because “perfection” changes when you pick up a bucket of gravel v 90 seconds later when you dump that bucket of gravel.

Assuming I looked up the correct specs, the 3 point capacity is 2,139lb at the pins. 1100 to 1200lb a little ways back from the pins isn’t pushing the capacity of the three point, so it shouldn’t damage anything. Past that, if all 4 wheels stay on the ground, mission accomplished. If the tractor feels well balanced, even better.

On a tractor of that size, I suspect you’ll find, with or without loaded tires, your 1100lb counterweight will keep the back tires firmly planted on the ground even when your pushing the limits of your loader.

 

[papajoe]

I have about 1200 lbs. on the back of my L3901, and R4's full of water and antifreeze. Sometimes when grappling I wish I had just a little more. I forgot, I'm over 300 lbs. myself, and that helps some.

 

[jimh406]

That's a lot of weight. Do you have loaded tires, too?

 

[mikester]

LOL just buy another LX and use that as counter weight!

 

[Dave_eng]

I made a 3-pt counterweight out of a steel barrel filled with concrete that weights maybe 1100 pounds. That's may be half the lift capacity of the 3-pt hitch, as far as I can discern. Should be OK??

The issue which arises when using barrels for counter weights is that usually the center of gravity of the filled barrel is above the axle height of your machine. In this situation the barrel is working against your stability when working on side slopes.
Could you please add the model of your machine to your forum profile.
Most 3 pt lifts have a valve few owners know about. If you try and lift something too heavy there is a pressure relief valve which will prevent you from lifting too much.
There is usually a second valve called a cylinder safety valve. Its job is to protect your machine when you are travelling with a heavy weight on the 3 pt hitch and the load is bouncing because of the unevenness of the road. The safety valve setting is much higher than the 3 pt relief valve. Often Kubota will recommend using a fuel injector tester to check the safety valve setting.

From a Kubota WSM

4. The hydraulic system has a relief valve (6) which restricts the maximum pressure in the circuit.

The hydraulic cylinders (5) have a cylinder safety valve (3) to relieve shock pressure due to heavy implement bounce.

Relief valve setting pressure
Factory spec.: 2632 to 2773 psi

Safety valve operating pressure
Factory spec.: 3342 to 3556 psi

Dave

 

[mrrlyoung]

Thanks for the safety valve information--very interesting. I've updated my profile.

 

[nbryan]

My B2650HSD (earlier model name of LX2610HSD, same capacities basically) has a perfect counter-weight on the 3-point with my BB1560 box blade. That unit weighs 430 pounds, but it does hang further back than a barrel would, so net effect on counterbalancing is a bit higher.

I say a perfect counterbalance, because when using my FEL QA pallet forks and lifting a full load of green firewood in a crate, the hydraulics are barely able to lift that load at upped engine rpm (the pressure bypass kicking in) yet the BB1560 on the back keeps my rear tires solid on the ground to move around.

So I do not need any more weight than the 430 lb BB ever, as a 3-point counterbalance.

I will add to remember to have the trans in 4WD for this kind of work. The front tires with a load hold most of the traction, and with a front load a trip down a slope will leave you unable to stop the tractor as there's no front brakes and the rear tires will slip easily on a downslope or hitting a bump.

 

[Henro]

.

Henro said to use AI for questions!

LOL

I got curious and decided to use an AI app and see what the answer to the question would be. First I asked how much the drum filled with concrete would weigh.
———————-
To estimate the weight of a 55-gallon drum filled with concrete, you need to consider the following:

1. **Volume of the Drum**:

- A 55-gallon drum has a volume of 55 gallons.

- 1 gallon is approximately 0.1337 cubic feet.

- Therefore, 55 gallons is approximately \( 55 \times 0.1337 = 7.3535 \) cubic feet.

2. **Weight of Concrete**:

- Concrete typically weighs about 145 pounds per cubic foot.

3. **Calculating the Total Weight**:

- Multiply the volume by the weight per cubic foot: \( 7.3535 \) cubic feet \(\times\) 145 pounds per cubic foot \(\approx\) 1066.26 pounds.

4. **Weight of the Drum**:

- An empty 55-gallon steel drum weighs about 40 pounds.

5. **Total Weight**:

- Adding the weight of the concrete and the drum: \( 1066.26 + 40 \approx 1106.26 \) pounds.

Thus, a 55-gallon drum filled with concrete would weigh approximately 1106 pounds.
————————-
But that was not the question. As for the question, Second I asked “If I use a 1100 pound counterweight on the back of the tractor who’s three-point hitch has a rating of 2000 pounds, do I need to worry about anything?”
————————
Answer:

When using a 1100-pound counterweight on the back of a tractor with a three-point hitch rated at 2000 pounds, there are several factors to consider to ensure safety and optimal performance:

1. **Hitch Rating**:

- Your counterweight is well within the hitch's 2000-pound capacity, so from a load capacity standpoint, you should be fine.

2. **Tractor Stability**:

- Adding a counterweight will affect the tractor's center of gravity. Ensure that the counterweight is properly secured and centered to maintain stability.

3. **Hydraulic Capacity**:

- Make sure the tractor's hydraulic system can handle the weight without straining. Check the hydraulic pressure and flow rates to ensure they are within acceptable ranges when lifting and carrying the counterweight.

4. **Front Axle Load**:

- Adding a heavy counterweight at the rear may reduce the load on the front axle, potentially affecting steering and front-end stability. If the front end becomes too light, it might cause steering issues, particularly when turning or traveling over uneven terrain.

5. **Implement Use**:

- If you're using other implements on the front of the tractor, ensure that the combined weight of the front implements and the counterweight does not exceed the tractor's total load capacity.

6. **Operational Speed**:

- Operate the tractor at a safe speed, especially when carrying heavy weights, to avoid loss of control or tipping.

7. **Attachment Points and Fasteners**:

- Check that the counterweight is securely attached to the hitch points with proper fasteners and that all attachment points are in good condition.

8. **Safety Checks**:

- Regularly inspect the hitch, counterweight, and tractor for any signs of wear or damage. Perform maintenance as needed to ensure everything is in proper working order.

By considering these factors, you can safely use the 1100-pound counterweight on your tractor's three-point hitch without exceeding its rating.
———————-
Seems like the response was a good starting point, but nothing beats asking people with real experience like we can find here at OTT!

Still not a bad result for about a one minute effort on my part

 

[SDT]

I made a 3-pt counterweight out of a steel barrel filled with concrete that weights maybe 1100 pounds. That's may be half the lift capacity of the 3-pt hitch, as far as I can discern. Should be OK??

Much too heavy.

 

[nbryan]

Basically it seems like that 45 gal barrel full of concrete is about twice what's needed for the LX2610. The 3pH has the lifting capacity, but all the unnecessary added mass definitely will stress out the 3-point hitch anti-sway components as it gets used.

A simple example to think about it: simply driving through a good sized pothole with only one rear wheel with any speed past a crawl will have that 3-point concrete load thrashing side-to-side and will likely soon enough bend or break something, like the anti-sway links.