Actually since it's got just shy of 170k on it I could do whatever I want. But the fact that it's made it to 170k miles, not a single engine problem ever, does not use a lick of oil between changes, does not leak a drop, gets reasonable economy tells me something. Why try to second guess Toyota? Also the reason they require 0W20 synthetic oil is due to the VVTI system in it. Using something else can cause issues with the VVTI gears. Not gonna mess with success.
10W 30 oil
- Thread starter Thunder Fish
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TheOldHokie
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This is true of many newer engine designs and not just Toyota or automobile engines. Cummins no longer allows the use of grade 15w40 in some of their newer OTR diesels. They specify 10w30 or 5w40. The use of heavier oils is specifically verbotten and will void the valve train warranty.
Dan
85Hokie
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Most if not ALL major automakers switched to the 0w-20 oil for one specific reason - to increase gas mileage. Believe it or not - a car running 10 weight oil over 0 weight will get about .3 miles a gallon worse mileage. These little pieces add up too.
Another reason is less wear at start up in the colder climates which is another huge benefit.
Another reason is less wear at start up in the colder climates which is another huge benefit.
Which is why I was asking about 10W 30,Kubota recommends this for my engine and everyone else is calling all sorts of oils
85Hokie
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the 10w30 is damn near a perfect oil for all weather conditions for most engines........
BUT the synthetics - for whatever reason go with a 5w-40 and or a 15w-40 also -
the 5 will help a bit if you are cranking your engine in "cold" temps ....... I would think zeroish F .....where as the 40 will help when you are running the snot out of the machine in those 95 d F days.
Run what the OEM calls for - and you will be fine! I am one that likes the benefits of synthetic oil and I cannot find it locally in the 10w30 diesel ....... so I am forced to use the 5w or the 15w rotella T6
I like to check in here every once in a while to learn something or, in the outside chance, I may have a suggestion to someone's query.
But, today, after reading about engine oil, I immediately went to the WSM where there is no mention of diesel engine oil. I have a 2004 BX23D MLB and the manual says SAE 10-30W. That is what I have been using. On the next oil change, should I find diesel oil?
Don't want to harm the little jewel, you know.
Tractor Gal
But, today, after reading about engine oil, I immediately went to the WSM where there is no mention of diesel engine oil. I have a 2004 BX23D MLB and the manual says SAE 10-30W. That is what I have been using. On the next oil change, should I find diesel oil?
Don't want to harm the little jewel, you know.
Tractor Gal
Doesn't your Lubricants chart have something like this?I like to check in here every once in a while to learn something or, in the outside chance, I may have a suggestion to someone's query.
But, today, after reading about engine oil, I immediately went to the WSM where there is no mention of diesel engine oil. I have a 2004 BX23D MLB and the manual says SAE 10-30W. That is what I have been using. On the next oil change, should I find diesel oil?
Don't want to harm the little jewel, you know.
Tractor Gal
You won't be able to get CD anymore, I think its up to CF now. But the C* classification oil is for diesel (Compression ignition). I've been running 5W-40 lately so I'm bending the rules.
85Hokie
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Well that will truly depend - on how frost bit your hands are!!!
The true differences are in the really cold temps - the kind that you will be crazy to go outside and want to be on the tractor!!!
But ---- there is a difference
85Hokie
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I like to check in here every once in a while to learn something or, in the outside chance, I may have a suggestion to someone's query.
But, today, after reading about engine oil, I immediately went to the WSM where there is no mention of diesel engine oil. I have a 2004 BX23D MLB and the manual says SAE 10-30W. That is what I have been using. On the next oil change, should I find diesel oil?
Don't want to harm the little jewel, you know.
Tractor Gal
YES - you really want to be using a "diesel" oil - the little particles will make a gas oil get "dirty" quicker and the gas oil will not contain those particles.
No number, but it was noticeable when I went from 15W-40 to 5W-40 T6, even in the summer down here. I think that would be ideal for you if you like synthetic.
Never had a problem with any engines in my life...Both of our tractor get oil in house. My Ford wants 10-30 so does the Kubota I use 10w-40.
We also have RAV Hybrid in goes (Dealer) in every 10k per Toyota but it's 0w-20 I think not 0w-16? Our other (2) vehicles get oil and filter at 7.5k per owners manual.
TheOldHokie
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That chart is older than Methuselah.
Modern formulations have essentially made grade 10W40 obsolete and replaced it with 5W40. It outperforms the old 10W40 in just about every way possible. You are not bending the rules much if at all.
Dan
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too bad 'they' didn't decide to add a letter after the grade..
like ...
10w30G for GAS engines...
5w40D for Diesel engines.
like ...
10w30G for GAS engines...
5w40D for Diesel engines.
TheOldHokie
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Does not work that way. Two different standards defining two differrent classification schemes by two differrent organizations.
Viscosity grade standard was introduced by SAE in the early 1900s and applies to all engine types. It categorizes oils on the basis of viscosity measured at 4 different temperatures using 4 different yest standards. No difference gas or diesel - just the simple kinematic properties of the liquid.
Service categories were introduced by API in late 50s and define performance requirenents unrelated to viscosity but differentiated by engine type. Things like soot control, piston and valve train wear, engine deposits, oxidation loss, evaporative loss, etc.
Both classifications are prominantly displayed in the API donut printed on the label of all licensed oils.
Dan
If you have a Toyota RAV4 and you're waiting until 10k miles to change oil you will end up with an oil burner. Also due to the way the new A25E engine in the hybrid controls oil pressure 0W16 is imperative for proper operation. If the dealer is not doing things correctly they're doing you a disservice.
Check out videos from this guy https://www.youtube.com/@TheCarCareNut
He REALLY knows his s^&t on Toyota products
Some engines are so touchy especially some GM. My nephew has a GM with an EcoTec engine. It specs 0W20. He took it to an oil change place and within a couple days he's got a check engine light. My brother calls me and asks could I give it a look. I hook the computer up to it, code is for cam timing fault.
I check some GM stuff and find out if 0W20 is not used on cold start up cam timing will not set correctly if anything else is used. Oil change place put 5W20 in it. He had it changed properly and has not had it happen again.
Check out videos from this guy https://www.youtube.com/@TheCarCareNut
He REALLY knows his s^&t on Toyota products
Some engines are so touchy especially some GM. My nephew has a GM with an EcoTec engine. It specs 0W20. He took it to an oil change place and within a couple days he's got a check engine light. My brother calls me and asks could I give it a look. I hook the computer up to it, code is for cam timing fault.
I check some GM stuff and find out if 0W20 is not used on cold start up cam timing will not set correctly if anything else is used. Oil change place put 5W20 in it. He had it changed properly and has not had it happen again.
CK4 - “C”ompression, then version, ”K”, then “4” for four stroke engine…
SP - “S”park, then version, “P”….
SP - “S”park, then version, “P”….
GreensvilleJay
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re: ... if 0W20 is not used on cold start up cam timing will not set correctly
anyone think this is NUTS ? Really, some 'engineer' designs an engine that HAS to use a very specific grade of oil, or it self destructs ??
then again, I'm trying to understand why rattlecan paint is $23 now....
anyone think this is NUTS ? Really, some 'engineer' designs an engine that HAS to use a very specific grade of oil, or it self destructs ??
then again, I'm trying to understand why rattlecan paint is $23 now....
TheOldHokie
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A lot of VVT designs use oil pressure to dynamically set valve timing. That means changing viscosity alters oil pressure as a function of RPM which in turn alters timing adjustment as a function of RPM. The effect is going to be most pronounced at colder oil temps.
I know nothing about the engine in question but I would guess a heavier oil at cold startup causes the ECM to latch a over pressure related code which persists after the oil warms up and pressures and timing normalize. Kinda silly fault handling but maybe the goal is to make a point about it. All you gotta do to avoid the fault is use the REQUIRED grade of oil. How hard is that?
Dan