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You actually have two jobs. One is limited timeframe (construction) and the other is long term (maintenance). If you "size" for the first, you'll likely be overkill for the second. Also using the second for the first means you're teasing the job along vs. just getting it done. Consider...

RM43 is my go-to on my spread. Economical.

First of all, size and outfit for what you need now, keeping in mind the size figure for the future. I had a 1025R JD. In -10 weather, the "massive' 18HP going to the front blower meant I was doing about five hours freezing the Gilhooleys off. I needed to put more years into my ability so...

Make sure you get one that's 32" extended, especially if you use a quick hitch. Also, the larger diameter, the better. Consider a cylinder with a blocking lever on it. The issue is when you have something like a brush hog in back and you're transporting it, the flexing torque on the top link...

I used to have chains for my JD1025R with a blower in front. However, when I went heavier with a Grand L5460, the weight equates to no issues. That said, my work is on mostly level areas. If I had a steep drive to do, that would be a different story. I'm fortunate as a larger tractor means...

Actually 40-60hp is in the proper range for me. I used to have a JD 1025R 23hp. That left 18hp going to the front blower. It struggled on 8 inches of wet snow. That, and I struggled being in -10 weather. Flash forward and I now have a Grand L 5460 with 46hp going to a front blower. I can...

Correct on the ID. It looks like one used in aircraft with around 150 watt capability. The value would relate to what someone would pay for a working unit replacement. Not likely as current products are much cheaper, faster, and broader frequency range. Ones that are advertised out there run...

I check in with a friend who owns a Kubota store and shop. Kubota still doesn't make anything that comes close to my JD 865R. I recall my Gator has better suspension, ground clearance, and bed/towing figures. Things may have changed. My Gator is an everyday workhorse for me. It gets around...

When I had a JD1025R, I got a PTO driven splitter. Rare as hen's teeth nowadays. The PTO drives a pump. I offloaded it when I shifted to pellet stoves. My retired body doesn't like mucking with firewood. Some good comments. If you go with pure hydraulics, the flow rate on these tractors...

I use a wireless setup with solar powered cameras. The issue with this is you can't run the camera(s) continuously. No big deal as I use them for snagging implements.

I used to have a 3-point auger. They are a pain as to stay vertical so you need to pull forward gradually. Other downticks are no ability to reverse, having to twist around to see what you're doing, and storage is awkward, even with a cradle. I ditched all of that for a loader mounted...

We live near the Canadian border in Idaho. Our electric CoOp does have power outages, usually due to trees fighting power lines. I use a CPAP and power invariably goes down at midnight. Getting up and starting up the portable isn't fun. We installed a 14KW Kohler natural gas and haven't...

All over Amazon Sample one...

Go long for the 33". You'll need that stroke, Also go big on diameter. Consider a locking block model. Great for transporting as the weight flexing pulls on the link considerably.

That and if I hire out amongst other things. I'd have to pull the policy, but there wasn't much difference. Turned out to be ~$240 less per year.

I'd add the larger diameter the better. Also recommend a locking block model. Why? If you have a brush hog lifted for transport down the road, it will gradually work its way down due to the momentum generated when you hit bumps. That's a lot of torque that translates to pull on the cylinder.

You don't have to go with KTAC. I got about 1/3rd less price and a bit better coverage (fewer but fors) with Travelers. Kubota finance just wants the unit insured.

Look closer. The center pin isn't the issue. Check out...

Actually I was thinking of reducing head loss with the bungee cord solution. One less valve that way. Line loss will be about the same.

I see now. Probably the cheapest way would be to add a third line to the manifold under your seat. It has an inlet/outlet for it. You'll get the maximum flow available.