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Thanks for that. For that price, I'm hoping that I'll be able to find some telescoping stabilizers

I'll keep that in mind for future repairs, but I feel I might regret losing that length in this case.

I'll try to fix them for backups. If I can make a sleeve to slip over the welded joint and then weld that also, the strength would be there. I'd lose a few threads, but will anyway. I've soaked parts in diesel fuel before (not this part), without any success. I didn't heat them before...

It was a pipe wrench and a vice that got me into this predicament. Those threads are stuck pretty bad. Overnight Kroil soaking was not quite sufficient. I was heating and adding wax this morning, and I thought I was getting movement on one side, but then the other side that was clamped in the...

I did find these Extreme Metal Products Kubota-Style Telescopic 3-Point Hitch Stabilizer Kit, Black at Tractor Supply Co. L275 is not on the listed models it fits, and the arm thru-stud doesn't look as large as mine. I could make a bushing....

I got impatient and heavy handed with a rust frozen threaded rod in the stabilizer turnbuckle and sheared it off at the thread. I'd consider welding it back, but that'd probably not hold up to the torque required to get the still stuck rod out even if I keep soaking it with Kroil. I've seen...

Good luck. Biggest challenge will be keeping the auger vertical. You'll have more forward motion than down with the bucket arms at the height shown and will have to continually counter with dipping the bucket down or up at the same time depending on the direction you're going. Any time you...

Ran the tractor with the shredder yesterday. The PTO engaged & disengaged several times without issue. Like butter. I didn't make it clear earlier, but the access cover was indeed behind the support bracket for my FEL. It was designed to use the same 4 bolts as the cover and completely...

I was hoping it was a drain. When I pulled the plug, it looked to be a threaded but not a thru hole. Clean metal is all I thought I saw. I'll pull it again tonight and probe with a pick. EDIT: Yep, it was a drain. The clutch assembly itself must be very close to the bottom of the bell...

Got the adjustment done. That was a real relief even being able to get the screws to move after seeing all of that rust. Now I just have to finish wrestling with the FEL mounting pieces. I'm close, but no cigar yet. Any ideas on that bolt hole I mentioned in the previous post?

Finally got the access port uncovered and opened. The rust was pretty bad. I soaked the adjustment screws with Kroil a few times and left it to sit overnight. I'll see if they'll move later today. I've seen posts where people recommend filling the bell housing as much as possible with Coke...

So, it's taken a while, but I finally think I understand what needs to be done. 1st thing will be to remove the FEL, because if there's an access to adjust bolt #11 referred above, it'll be behind my FEL mounting bracket. The access plate I've been taking pictures of looks to mainly adjust...

This got back-burnered, but now I'm back on it. I am having issues getting access to the lock nut (circled in post #14, and shown here) that holds the bolt in place. No problem getting a wrench on the head of the bolt, but the bend in the arm is preventing me from getting the wrench on the...

No chattering. It's just been a bit hard to engage/disengage the transmission, although that's probably more related to some adjustments I need to make. I was shredding my neighbor's pasture last week and the tractor was bogging down at times when I was taking too much of a cut through...

I'm probably going to have to replace the clutch on my old L275DT in the near future. Does everything need to be replaced, as in a whole clutch assembly, or are there wear items that can only be replaced, like bearings and friction plates?

Thanks. I was looking at the loader frame the other day and it did look like there was an individual piece that went side-side underneath that could be detached without having to remove the whole FEL. How easy it'd be to get it back on is another story. I know it was a bear to get the FEL...

I never had an issue with PTO engagement/disengagement in the 6 years or so I've had this tractor. It'd usually been stored in a barn, but recently is was stored outside of my garage for several months in the elements while I did a number of repairs. Reading other forum posts on this there...

Yep, 3 arms with a bolt each. The thing is, the WSM spec of 0.012" gap is with a gauge block, and I don't know if that's the same gap for here or not. Worse comes to worst, I could reduce the current gap by 1/2 and see if that helps.

That 4-bolt cover in your attachment looks alot like the location where my FEL connects, which is right in front of the 2-bolt cover.

By "travel section", do you mean what's shown in post #3? If so, gauge block is not the part that's on the tractor if I'm reading the WSM right. I don't see a spec for the gap between the bolts and the ring they press against (would that be the throwout bearing?). Would it be as tight a gap...