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@shootem - I purchased a very similar looking wheel, but folks earlier in this thread said that it might damage the 4WD.

Reached out to Lance about a replacement wheel of correct dimension. Fluid coming out of ruptured tube is very salty, so likely CACL. Will go with fresh ballast for new setup and ensure it is not CACL. Attached a pic of the whole wheel as some folks speculating on repair-ability. While it may...

Will 1" wider wheel really make that much rolling circumference difference? @GreensvilleJay - I attached a pic of the wheel damage. @007kubotaguy - PM sent. Thanks, Doug

Have an ancient L245DT that sees very-occasional light use. The real wheel has rusted/discentegrated around the valve stem. Apparently the wheel 34219-29750 (9x24) is no longer available and 32470-27650 (10x24) is the replacement. New wheel has different way to attach disk to wheel (see pics)...

Tractor overheated the other day. Build up of grass behind screen. Blew everything out with air compressor, topped off coolant. Runs now without overheating, but something is not right. If I drive at full throttle (PTO disengaged) after 20 seconds or so it bogs down and starts to die. If I mow...

Figured it out. Key switch was only getting 1.8V. Thick-ish red wire coming from starter to dashboard interrupted by a 2-pole connector down by starter. Short loop of green wire on other side of 2-pole had lots of corrosion on connector and wire was failing. Clipped this out and spliced the...

Just had a problem pop up. Used the tractor quite a bit yesterday, no issues. Sat for a while, user turned the key left to heat the glow plugs. Said it heated for a bit then suddenly stopped. Checking it out, turning key left (heat) or right (starter) does nothing (no clicks or anything -...

Bad (brand new) starter was the culprit. Installed a new OEM starter. Boom! Cranked super fast and started almost immediately! I have suspicions that the old new starter was not the correct part (I had to tap it with a hammer to get it out). Lessons learned: A brand new starter (that load...

So, I got the new starter, and... you'll have to wait (as will I). Project on hold until after 4th of July holiday. Talk with y'all in a few days. Have a great 4th! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Loosened the fan belt. Both dynamo and water pump spin nice & smooth. Tightened it back up. Have not removed glow plugs or injectors yet, but I can turn the engine pretty smoothly by hand (until it gets into the compression stroke). Re-assembled battery/starter using dielectric grease on...

Stamped on block by injector pump: D600. Putting the freshly tested parts back on (with dielectric grease!). How does one get the HST drive shaft out? Drop the mower deck and go in from underneath? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Took the starter to Romaine Electric in Kent, WA (electrical parts remanufacturer/distributor. Starter load tested Good. Will look where cviola suggested for more evidence on which engine I have. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

OK, so I was not wrong (bummer): o Canopy says G6200 (perhaps the previous owner replaced it?) o Nameplate says G5200 o Manual says G5200 o Engine head says D600 Off to the electrical shop to have the starter load tested.

Yes, the new cables are same gauge wire as old. As to your cranking questions, here is a video of attempting to start this tractor (posted earlier in thread, too): https://youtu.be/5720TV-MGh4

Took the battery to two auto parts stores (Napa & O'Reilly, just to be sure) - both places the battery tested out as "Good". How would one turn the motor by hand (what do you grab onto or apply leverage to)? Assuming injectors or glow plugs out for this operation? Another possibility may be...

The voltage at the battery terminal and the voltage at the starter lug during cranking are never more than 0.4V apart. The voltage across the battery terminals drops down as the engine bogs down and ceases turning. Lowest it gets is 9V when the engine ceases turning. Bounces back quickly when...

OK, voltage: 13.0 V across battery terminals. 0.0 V across positive cable (battery to starter) at rest. 0.33-0.40 V across positive cable (battery to starter) when cranking. 9.0 V across battery terminals once starter won't crank anymore. Battery snaps back to 12.5+ V very quickly after...

That had crossed my mind. Led to my thinking that the starter sticking on could explain both the loss of power as well as the old starter becoming damaged. Anything to watch out for removing the injectors?

Bumkin - Changed both positive and negative cables. No cutting/crimping. All connections are definitely corrosion free. I can test VD when I get home. Wolfman - I wont be able to get starter tested anytime soon (schedule is too tight). I can try pulling injectors and seeing how it spins...

Wife ran it out of fuel. Filled it up and ran it - she said it didn't have much power, then she saw sparks coming out of engine cowling and shut it down, then couldn't get it started again. When I later attempted to start it, the solenoid would click but starter would not turn. I had trouble...