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Just an update with a happy ending. It seems the problem was what ever the connection bar that is located next to the voltage regulator. I loosened the nuts and sprayed the terminals with contact cleaner. Voile! I now have both the oil lights and the temperature gauge operational. Since...

Thanks for the diagram. That should be a big help trouble shooting the problem. Hopefully it isn't a yellow jacket nest beneath the dash:eek:

Yeh, makes sense. Since it starts and runs fine, I'm guessing you are correct in thinking it is connections under the dash. Heck, I did a complete rebuilt on the engine in this L345DT, but when it comes to electricity I'm a duck out of water.

The oil sensor light and the temperature gauge worked fine. I moved the tractor over to Corvallis and when I went to unload it I didn't have any oil pressure light or starter when I went to start the tractor. The fellow who was with me smacked the voltage regulator with something and the oil...

Howdy, I'm hoping for some trouble shooting expertise on why my loader hydraulics has become too jerky to operate. The loader is the L1720 made for the L345 and L345DT. It has the external pump reservoir mounted on the left side of the loader frame. This has the external pump driven by the...

I bumped the torque by 1 ft. lb. and several did budge a bit, not many (3) so I'm glad I did it. I might do it again after running for a while and I'm bored with nothing better to screw up.

Job is done. Even though the gasket was a the type that does not have to be retorqued, I did it anyway after having run the tractor around yesterday for a while. , The only thing remaining is the ceremonial discarding of a pair of wore out greasy overalls and a pair of boots that I...

It has been a year long project. But I'm done, well almost, I have the final head retorque to do this morning. The question I have is should I back off 1/4 turn before the retorque or simply retorque. Googling this question and checking reputable sites for high performance engines has some...

My setup looks like rbargeron's pictures. The images on the two lever slots assemblies are really faded and hard to make out. but with the lever nearest the driver all the way up (draft) and the lever farthest away from the driver at the bottom. When I lift the lever farthest away from the...

The backhoe kubota B4672 has it's own hydraulic tank and pump that runs off the pto. Therefore the three point hydraulics and the BH hydraulics are separate beasts. Same with the 1720 loader that has a pump that runs off the front pto shaft output.

I happened across an great deal on a land pride back blade and had the ingenious idea that I would remove the backhoe and use the bucket and back blade for winter snow removal chores with my L345DT. I took the backhoe off and much to my disappointment the three point hitch hydraulics didn't...

Well, I've been working on this project for about a year. It has been months since I've updated the progress. Now it is time. I definitely learned some valuable lessons and I thought I would share my experiences because they may be of use to others who might find themselves in similar...

The flange or boss points toward the transmission. But I feel much better about double checking the orientation prior to installing. You know what they say...

And the answer is: no the V1505 will not work because one set of bolt 'ears' is oriented the wrong way. This was an trial and error expense that could have been easily avoided by taking a closer look at the manifold pictures. Oh, well live and learn, eh?

Thanks for all the replies. In case someone else eventually has the same question; the correct answer is you do not have to remove the shifter cover, forks, balls, and etc do not have to be removed as if you are following the service manual. You may simply remove the cover using screw jacks...

I've had the dual clutch installed for several days as I wait for the transmission seal and gasket (I thought I'd better do a little PM whilst the tractor is split). Today, I had a horrible nagging doubt as to which side of the front clutch disc faces the flywheel. There is no markings as to...

I've finally got the engine rebuilt and ready to install after many delays, wrong parts, SLOW delivery, and so forth. In one of the threads I saw that in addition to replacing the throw out bearing and dual clutch that it may be an opportune time to replace the transmission input shaft seal...

Many thanks for the picture of the tool you fabbed up. It will help save a lot of trial and error guesswork. Since I don't have a lath I might take your pic and measurements to a local machine shop for an estimate. It would be great if I could score an aluminium dowel at Pacific Hide and Fur...

Since this is sort of a separate topic from the rebuilding the L345DT engine, I thought I would make it a separate thread. Today, I thought I'd simply take the dual stage clutch, discs, and flywheel to the Kubota dealer and save myself a lot of heartache by having them use their special tool...

I called the local Kubota service dept. and left a message. They called me back and said that he couldn't find anything either. He even called Kubota and they didn't have an answer. We were in agreement that using the nominal bolt size torque would probably be too tight given the gasket. So...